phoenix

Guys, the only way to know if the brass has been annealed correctly is to hardness test it. This is how I do that - from about 24 minutes on Cheers Bruce

Lines per millimetre, or more accurately line pairs per millimetre, is a resolution measurement system that has its genesis in old analog tubed NV systems. When applied to digital imaging systems (NV or thermal) it doesn't really produce a sensible number. If you want to know the the size of the smallest thing a digital imaging system can detect at (say) a distance of 100m), then simply divide the pixel size by the focal length of the objective lens and multiply the answer by 100 So, in the case of the Helion 2 XP50 pro, the pixel size is 17 microns, the focal length is 50mm. Therefore, at a range of 100m, one pixel "sees" a square whose sides are (17/50)*100 = 34mm The smaller that number, the more detailed the image will be. Note that the number of pixels in the sensor does affect the resolution, only the pixel size and lens focal length The 1024 (1024x768) you mention in your reply above is the number of pixels in the display, which has no effect on the resolution of the system as long as there are at least as many pixels in the display as there are in the sensor Having said all that, there are other thermal imagers available which also have sensors with 17 micron pixels and 50mm lenses which will have the same resolution as the OPs images - but the image quality will not be anything like as good as those above. Most thermal imager specifications quote something called NETD This stands for Nett Equivalent Temperature Difference and is a measure of the smallest change in temperature that the lens/sensor system can detect. Typical NETD values are 50mK ( degrees millikelvin) - so 50mK is 0.05 degrees centigrade The Pulsar Helion2 XP50 Pro has an NETD of 20mK making it capable of detecting much smaller changes in temperature than virtually all other hand held thermal imagers. This very small NETD allows more temperature detail to be observed and this, combined with Pulsars very sophisticated signal processing result in the high quality images above Cheers Bruce

What you are calling positive and negative is known as white hot and black hot in thermal terminology and it is what it says. In white hot mode, hotter objects appear white and in black hot mode, hotter objects appear black There are also various colour modes where a temperature (or small range of temperature) is displayed as a specific colour. This colour presentation looks very clever and attractive to those who are not au fait with thermal imagers, but in reality, white hot and black hot provide a much more detailed image than any of the colour modes because the number of colours used is small (typically 16) while most thermals will display 256 discreet levels of grey between pure black and pure white. Cheers Bruce

No apology needed -there's nothing wrong with differences of opinion based on knowledge and experience. BTW, I agree, the Helion 2 XP50 pro is is a different league from any other spotter I've ever used Cheers Bruce

A bit long and rambly in places but it might help some people Cheers Bruce

Thanks for the replies. I've recently built an induction annealer and have also found a cheap portable hardness tester that allows me to measure the hardness of the brass at the neck of the case before and after annealing to ensure that the hardness has dropped to near the same as it is for new (annealed) brass. in a couple of days there will be a YouTube video showing the annealer and hardness tester . I'll post a link when it goes live Cheers Bruce

Do you full length size before or after annealing? Cheers Bruce

I recently asked Reload Swiss for loads based on RS52 and RS 60 for 69g Sierra TMK bullets in a 1 in 9 twist 22-250 In each case they stated that the burning rate could vary by as much as +/- 10% between different powder lots Reload Swiss use Quickload for their recommendations I have a 1kg of RS60 so loaded up some cartridges and fired them over the magnetospeed and then adjusted the burning rate in Quickload so that the QL MV prediction matched the measured MV. The difference in the nominal burning rate and the adjusted burning rate was only 2.3%

How much power does you freezer consume (i.e the watts on the rating plate), and how long would you anticipate it needing to run on batteries? Also is it a chest freezer or an upright because chest freezers keep their temperature longer because the cold air stays inside the box whereas with an upright, every time the door is opened the cold air Only then can you work out what size of battery pack you'll need

I don't shoot foxes at 300 yards plus to massage my ego. On the rare occasions when I have shot foxes at that range it is because it was the correct thing to do in circumstances. if the circumstances were different then no shot would have been taken Cheers Bruce

I've shot foxes with a thermal riflescope with a base magnification of x3 out to 350 yards,(although I don't make a habit of it!) With practice it is not difficult to identify the species you are looking at - as long as it's moving. Cheers Bruce

5.56? I thought it was 9mm handguns they were using. Cheers Bruce

Never forget, old age and cunning always defeats youth and enthusiasm 😄 Cheers Bruce

Use a hot hands bag as a target for your thermal scope., Stick one on a target board at 100 yards (or your preferred zeroing distance) and shoot at the centre of the hot spot If you can put bullets into the bag you are within one inch of a perfect zero Remember that you are zeroing a thermal scope, not a target scope, so forget about 1/2" groups, or even 1" groups. I also would not be trying to head shoot any animal with a thermal scope - aim for the middle of the heat blob!! Cheers Bruce

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php Plug in: Bullet BC Muzzle velocity Sight height Target size (only necessary to get the calculator to work) The result will give near zero, far zero, minimum PBR, maximum PBR and POI at 100 yards Cheers Bruce

Another vote for the 22 hornet 13 grains of Lil gun with a 40 grain V Max bullet will give you a 2 inch kill zone from 20-180 yards or a 1 inch kill zone from 30-150 yards Cheers Bruce

I think he means illuminator. It's hard work with some folk Cheers Bruce

There's new mount for the PARD 008 from EagleVisionCam Adjustable for windage, elevation and reach https://eaglevisioncam.com/shop/scope-mount/008-pard-forward-elevation-windage-108-moa-adjustable-picatinny/ And much cheaper than the alternatives. Cheers Bruce

I'm with the Aberdeen office and one for day use, one for night use is a standard "good" reason for having 2 rifles of the same calibre. If you are refuse, then appeal, because you will win. This is just the normal variation in attitudes among FEOs - some of them just don't like guns and they try every trick to reduce the number of guns and ammo held by the public 600 rounds of 6.5 may be a bit much unless your are a competition shooter 600 rounds of 22 rimfire should not be a problem - I have 1300 on my ticket Cheers Bruce

Other than the rangefinder, it's the same lens, sensor and display as the Digex. Personally I don't rate the image quality - it lacks brightness and contrast and whites out very easily with even a little too much IR Buy a PARD NV008LRF and save yourself money and get a much much better image. Cheers Bruce

What - no Shot Show in January 2021 The non mask wearing red neck Trumpkin fans will riot!!!! Cheers Bruce

When you use a front add-on you're looking through your glass scope at a small TV screen which is emitting visible light The quality of the glass and any lens coatings in your scope are pretty much irrelevant. If, for some reason the scope is not passing s much light as you think it should, simply turn up brightness control for the small TV screen. Ian Blackwood from Blackwood Outdoors has an FXG50 and is regularly posting his findings over on the Nightvision UK forum Cheers Bruce

On my centrefires, one pass with a boresnake after each outing when at least one shot is fired - nothing else On my bolt action 22 rimfire - nothing Cheers Bruce

But not the most comfortable set up to mount I found it was OK when shooting from a vehicle where I could rest the stock of the rifle on the edge of the window and have the butt against my chest. Otherwise it was nightmare to use Cheers bruce

Yep, PARD 007 is all you need. Cheers Bruce