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About Scrumbag

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  1. Scrumbag

    Advice on reloading please

    Hi folks, Did a batch of cases with a larger cast mounth and this is the sort of mineral salt deposit build up I tend to get: Not every case by any means but some. Ideas on how to avoid welcome. Scrummy
  2. I heard actually it's to do with how high the powerful .338s will get for air danger space. (NB Not my nationale)
  3. Scrumbag

    Incompetent RFD

    I think this where the GTA should do a better job of advising its members though the members would have to listen to advice. In terms of getting your gun back, get your association on it. NGO / BASC / SACS whoever you are with write it all out to them and follow up with a phone call. I'd have thought they'd have been all over this. Scrummy
  4. Scrumbag

    Incompetent RFD

    That might be the explanation of what happened but it in no way mitigates / is a legitimate defense for the utter cluster the RFD brough about by acting incompetently.
  5. Amazon would seem to have options: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Burris-410672-Benelli-Sportsman-Supply/dp/B00794LF9A/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=burris+speed+bead&qid=1600417188&sr=8-1 Hope this helps.
  6. Scrumbag

    Incompetent RFD

    No. Should go to the London Proof House for proofing, surely? Proof house receives guns which are out of proof everyday. The Proof House then proofs them. Job done, no?
  7. 8mm is only a limit for F-Class I think - it doesn't affect the whole of Bisley. You've been able to shoot upto.577 for some time Scrummy
  8. See rule 9 : https://nra.org.uk/nra-bisley/ranges/latest-range-information/range-regulations/ sucks I’m afraid
  9. You can often get an adapter that goes from the footprint of your red dot to weaver / Pic. Worth considering for flexibility. Does add a bit of height though
  10. Think you can’t shoot more than 7,000 joules so think about that. Also as I understand it, anything that is 338 is not allowed
  11. Not an M2 but with my Benelli Supernova I went with a Burris Speedbead and Fastfire III (3MOA) No drilling and tapping required and has the Docter / Noblex footprint which is very commonly used by reflex red dot sight manufactures. Might be a way to try it without drilling and tapping anything? Scrummy
  12. Scrumbag

    Advice on reloading please

    @Popsbengo 1st, thanks for taking the time to answer that. In response to your follow-on questions For my 7x64 I use an RCBS FL Sizing die and seating I use a Lee. I have an RCBS seating die but I don't like having to set it be feel of case mouth. I use a sonic cleaner rather than a tumbler as I live in a block of flats and a sonic is a lot quieter Trimming to length: I don't have something I can set the trim length to. The tool I have either trims back to a fixed length or the brass stays the length it is. Scraping I usually just use a pick to lift out any carbon so minimal stuff. Generally I find I only have to touch the primer pockets on maybe 1 in 10. Rest are clean and carbon free. I have perhaps noticed my scales wander a little. I know my powder dish is ~102.9-103.0 gr so I keep a check to see if the scale returns to negative that when the powder dish is off. Besides not needing the wash after the deburr and champfer anything else to take out? Scrummy
  13. Scrumbag

    Advice on reloading please

    Not so much shiny, just don't want to stick a case or have goup / gunk / lube or anything else upsetting powder and primers
  14. Scrumbag

    Advice on reloading please

    Well folks, I have decided to take the “brave” (maybe read foolish) step of throwing myself on the collective mercies of the interwebs and asking people to critique my reloading process. So, any advice very welcome. Deprime brass using a Lee Decapping Die Soak decapped brass in soapy water – I find it particularly helps with cleaning out necks and primer pockets where the most “baked-on” carbon is Sonic clean in boiling water with addition of citric acid granules and squirt of washing up liquid Rinse and place in bowl of water with bicarbonate of soda to neutralise Rinse again Air dry after checking mouths and shoulders (generally I find inside of necks clean, sometimes neck needs a quick wipe) Lube using lube pad and a smear on shoulders and inside case mouth Resize Trim to length Chamfer and deburr case mouth as required Wash in warm, soapy water to remove case lube and swarf Rinse and air dry Prime using Hornady hand primer whilst checking primer pockets are clean (find generally I can prime most cases straight off with only having to scrape out the occasional one) Individually weigh charges on a jeweller’s scale (I usually calibrate using the check weights first) Seat bullets and check length using Base to Ogive rather than COAL particularly for plastic tipped / soft point bullets and check every few for consistency Any thoughts on the above, please let me know I have a couple of bits on concern / areas I reckon I could improve on. I tend to get water marks or slightly minerally deposits on the cases and particularly the necks – what’s a good way to stop this I’m using a Lee Turret press. Very convenient for changing calibres quickly but I wonder how consistent particularly the sizing is. Works fine most of the time but given I’m occasionally shooting out to 1,200 I wonder if a single stage press might give more consistent results Case length - I only know my brass isn’t longer than a certain amount. I use a Lee Cutter and length gauge and some doesn’t get trimmed at all so has to be a different length and I guess that’s mainly neck length which I gather can be critical Any advice much appreciated. Scrummy
  15. Scrumbag

    Booties ditch SA80 for C8

    I'd prefer that!

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