Jump to content
UKV - The Place for Precision Rifle Enthusiasts

One on top of two

Members
  • Content count

    888
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About One on top of two

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 6

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East mids
  • Interests
    Horses,shooting,

Recent Profile Visitors

1,112 profile views
  1. One on top of two

    Pre Priming Brass

    100% agree
  2. One on top of two

    Pre Priming Brass

    Lincolnshire class primed case as live . And have done for as long as I can remember (35 yrs )
  3. None of my mods bare proof marks , as the man above has just said the ruling regarding this and threading the end of the barrel was made years ago and can even download and read all the legal bits and bobs .
  4. One on top of two

    Tempilaq

    Bugger ! Just bought some 650 as well .
  5. What .. you don’t mean the Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler ? bang out of order matey .
  6. One on top of two

    what`s the best all-round bushcraft knife

    i use a Fallkniven X Series F1. i find the knife holds a fantastic edge , its my everyday in the field knife , i get on really well with it and find it nice and grippy even in the cold and you cant feel your fingers or hands covered in blood and snot from cleaning rabbits to gralloching or just breasting out wood pigeons for the dogs , just a great knife ! oh and its really easy to put a decent edge on it , and im rubbish at that sort of thing usually.
  7. One on top of two

    Neck sizing vs full sizing question.

    Time to throw another log on the fire ... In my few weeks of handoading, I have never seen a case that was “overworked by F/L sizing.” I have seen case head separation, I have seen neck splits, I have seen failing shoulders, and most of all, I have seen primer pockets that are so enlarged the primers don’t stay in. I have yet to see a case fail because of F/L sizing overwork. Case head separation is caused by someone not knowing how to set their sizing die ,But if you set your sizing die properly, it will never happen and I don’t even bother checking that. Split necks are caused by the use of standard sizing dies (N/S or F/L) where the mouth of the case is closed more than it should be and then expanded again by the expander ball. This occurs more often from rifles with a generous leade where the case mouth expands more than usual. When you work that case mouth with a standard die over and over again, it will split. You can alleviate that with annealing but even more specifically by eschewing the use of standard dies and using a bushing die with the proper size bushing and placing the expander ball in low Earth orbit where it belongs. Failing shoulders is very rare and I have seen that with certain specific ancient calibers and with people using body dies. (Hold that thought, we’ll come back to it.) When you resize the case or more commonly when you use the body die, the shoulders do not go back properly and they crumple. This is very rare, but I have seen it. The most common cause of death for a rifle case is the loose primer pocket. This will occur when you foolishly insist on using very stout loads in your rifle. That’s what kills my brass, because I do use very stout loads. I believe I **** the primer pocket expansion by using a small base F/L die from the first sizing as it pushes the case head back together some after each firing. I get 8 loadings with my brass from virgin and then I retire it. By that time the primer is VERY easy to insert. Overworking my brass due to sizing? I don’t even know what that would look like. Do you? Now that we have shot that first canard down, let’s go after the second one; brace yourself, it’s going to be rough. When you neck size, the only thing you are doing is pushing back the neck to a smaller dimension, the body and shoulder of the case are untouched. Now, when you fire a cartridge for the first time in your action, the principle of operation is for the case to expand until it is stopped by the chamber and it can’t expand any further. The mouth of the case expands also to obturate the bore and prevent the hot gases from going back into the chamber and your face. Everything goes out the barrel. When the pressure drops, the case shrinks back, a little, and comes off the wall. The bolt rotates the case to break any remaining stickiness and then pulls the fired case out of the chamber. Brass has some elasticity inherent to it. This is why the case does shrink back a bit so you can pull it out. However that elasticity can be overcome with too much pressure. This is what happens when a bolt is hard to open. The brass was overworked due to too high a pressure and will not shrink back. When you try to rotate the bolt, the case is stuck to the wall of the chamber and it will not let go easily. Ok. Now when you neck size, you do not bring back the case to a starting volume. The case now has the volume of a fired case that has shrunk back a bit. The next time you fire it the case expands again and shrinks back, but less than the prior time. Your twice-fired case now has an internal volume that is even greater than after the first firing. At some point, the N/S case becomes too difficult to rotate and extract. Neck sizers pull out something called a body die (told you we would come back to it) or may even decide to F/L size the many-times fired case to bring it back to “normal.” That doesn’t really work, the body die will bring it back some, but the brass will also spring back larger because that’s what brass does. So, even after using a body die, you have no clue about the internal volume. If you have to use a body die or if you have to F/L size the case at intervals, you do not have a consistent internal volume, especially between the load prior to the use of the body die and the load right after the use of the body die. You have no consistency from load to load. Another reason you use the body die is to set the shoulder back some. This means that in the interval between the first firing and the time you use the body die, the shoulder has expanded, firing after firing. Another area of inconsistency, but it gets worse. This is actually how you damage your rifle. Your bolt action should not be used to crush fit a fat cartridge with a too long neck either. If you do that consistently you are damaging your action; the lugs, the handle, etc. They are designed to hold the cartridge in place during ignition, to obturate the bore, not to coax bad cartridges into the chamber. But it gets worse. If you have ANY resistance when you open the bolt and pull out the fired cartridge, you’ve got an overpressure situation. That can be caused by a bad load or by an ill-fitting cartridge, either way you are doing damage to your action. I know that a lot of neck sizers decide it’s time to use the body die when the bolt gets really hard to close or open; they are causing damage to their rifles, on top of getting inconsistencies from load to load. A properly adjusted F/L resizing die for a single rifle should put the shoulder back about .001 to .002 from fired, squeeze the body and shrink the neck and mouth. When you load a handloaded cartridge, the bolt should close smoothly without any resistance whatsoever. When the shot is taken, you should be able to open the bolt without a hint of resistance then either. If there is any resistance anywhere, you have a problem, if it persists, you are damaging your rifle. If you open your bolt and hear a click at the top of the stroke, you’re really damaging your rifle. Because of the tightness of my chamber, I could probably get away with neck sizing the case since it does not have much room for the brass to grow unlike factory rifles with their obese chambers. I F/L size my fired cartridges after every firing because I insist on the highest consistency between loadings and I absolutely must have the smoothest possible action travel.the very last thing I want is to be fighting with the action at every shot. I place the cartridge in the action and I close the bolt just before I fire. It’s ALWAYS as smooth as butter; no resistance. Happy new year !
  8. One on top of two

    Changing my hunting load

    Stumpy has made some good points to consider and I have to agree.. however if your really wanting to try something cheaper try Hornady SST bullet 123grn or 129 grn nearly half the price of what your paying moment for what’s considered to be a reliable bullet . I personally use the Berger classic Hunter 136 grn in my CM and can’t fault them .
  9. One on top of two

    Neck sizing vs full sizing question.

  10. One on top of two

    6.5 PRC

    about the same as a 6.5x284
  11. One on top of two

    Caselife annealing machine

    If only things where that simple 😂👍 Like to me is like asking myself why do I need a chronograph when the MV is printed on the box . If your happy with that ,go for it 👍 of course this is just my opinion.
  12. One on top of two

    Bisley closed again.

    And that sir is what makes us all different.
  13. One on top of two

    Bisley closed again.

    And therein lies the problem, if you get it wrong you can’t take sole responsibility as your going to be dependent on so many people . Some may call that selfish behaviour. plus you may very well unknowingly bring the lurgy back with you and infect your bubble . it’s just shooting ....
  14. One on top of two

    Caselife annealing machine

    Not anymore 😉
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy