miki

Yeast from Lidl and strong flour from Costco (the last 18Kg bag) in Edinburgh..... pm me your address and i'll send you a yeast

Cheers, interesting. I use my MagS' simply to measure the MV, finding a plateau for load development and then remove it for fine tuning the groups, followed by re-attaching to measure the MV to compare results with QL and GRT. More faffing about I guess but isn't that part of the fun ?

Scuse my ignoramce but what's wrong with attaching the Magnetospeed to the rifle/barrel itself ?

I think it's a size thing here, the (forum) software doesn't resize pics just displays them as presented, unfortunately most phone cameras these days output pictures that are to big to be accommodated.

Well said @John MH my thoughts exactly ...

On your pc ... open the picture by double clicking on it - this opens 'Windows Photo Viewer' (in Windows, in Apple, I have no idea) On the menu bar, click on "E-mail". This opens a box. Click on the size you want to attach (i'd suggest Medium or Large) and the image is automatically added to an eMail. Drag this image out of the eMail and onto the desktop and then 'attach' it to your post .... (in this example the image is called "Keyrings"). You can add three pictures to each post as long as they are no larger than 2.5MB. If you want to add another 3, just reply to your first post and add the pics there .. Below is the image I was using ....

Ooh no, what a dissapointment. You can't beat a bacon sammy especially on some fresh home made bread (her in-doors is doing a stirling job in that dept these days) and a mug of piping hot, milky, tea.

I always wet tumble my cases so they are 'clean inside' when I measure. Over 20 cases the min/max was 1.2gr (H20) with PPU and 0.8gr with the FC (.25-06) First or Second fired are very similar. What difference does it make ? In GRT the difference is @ 68.8H20 I get 61508 psi and with 70.0H20 58981psi Max pressure is 63817psi so the smaller volume is closer to max. The MV also changes by approx 30fps, which i'm not worried about as i'm not shootong further than 250 to 300yds, nor am I shooting competitively (where is the spell checker when you need it ?) However I can see the need for perfection and hunt for constant pressure and MV that the long distance shooter desires.

I use a fired primer, which I inset, after the case has been wet tumbled, prior to FL resize. I set the scale to zero with empty the case, use (cold) boiled water, fill the cases with a syringe (whilst submerged in the jug) and then leave on a piece of kitchen towel for a while. On the scale I get the H20 volumetric weight. I typically weigh/check 20 cases out of 100 (a batch) and average the results. My .25-06 PPU average @ 68.75 and the FC @ 67.65gr - thinner brass (or head) on the PPU I guess...

Have decided to sell my Bushnell 6500 scope. Has been sat on my Daystate for a couple of years with minimal use (do they wear out if you look through them to much ?) Covid Free, comes with box, all paperwork, sunshade, bikini-covers and is 'as good as new'. £385 (ONO) including courier delivery will accept PayPal-F&F, Bank Transfer or Cash on Collection ...

The barrel you are swapping will be proofed, on a shotgun there is no other 'proofed' part. Just the barrels (which encompass the chambers). (I know the pic isn't a Hatsan, but couldn't find one ...)

My understanding is that the mount is one singe piece, which bolts/clamps to the rifles action and the scope rings are then bolted to that single, solid platform. This keeps the two scope rings perfectly aligned to each other and offers a very stable platform.

Should be solid really and consistent. To be 100 thou off does indicate that something is loose. With a die in the press and the handle fully down is the shell holder snug against the dies without movement, is the locking nut on the die tightso the die isn't moving relative to the press head ? Is the pin on the bottom of the ram tight (ie it doesn't rattle about) ? If you hold the handle half way down does the ram and the two side arms feel tight (ie they don't rattle about either) and you can't waggle the handle sis to side ?. You may need to tighten these bolts up a bit to solidify everything. After you have seated the bullet how are you measuring ?

Or a better rail on my rifles

I'm sure they do, as do Sportsmatch mounts. BKL double. medium. 30mm £54.00 Sportsmatch UK, double, medium, 30mm £29.99 (full retail)

https://www.swiftandboldpublishing.co.uk/the-book/ Heres the link to the publisher ...

That sums things up well. I'd trust Sportsmatch mounts to be centered to the rail more accuratelt than most of the Chinese mounts. BKL are American and having read thier 'design brief' (here) i'd stick with the sportsmatch, an over exuberent sales man is filling your head with nonsense .... I bet the same salesman calls bullets 'heads' too

I have Sportsmatch on my rimmy and my air-rifle, no problems with the mounts pulling to one side .....

I use Chairgun Pro (the Hawke app) on my pc. Hawke have stopped developing it it now but as a guide and set-up tool I think it's very good. You can still download it here (Hawke link).

Aaargh ... now I want one 🤤 I feel the need to check my inner roundness. Hornady do a Wall Thickness Gauge that bolts into thier concentricity guage, U$60 (£47.50) at Cabelas and £74.45 (U$93) from CDSG .....

The tipped gamekings from sierra will be fine on deer and when placed right, kill foxes no problem .... with its slightly thicker jacket (than the std gameking bullet) it will hold together well with the fast twist you have too. Let us know how you get on 👍

That's my point I guess, the rifle and ammunition was designed to fulfill a niche demand, long range target with long, super slippery, medium speed bullets that retained energy and accuracy out past 900yds. The Creedmoor has 25-percent less wind drift at all ranges and close to 20-percent less drop at 1,000 yards (plagerised from www.ballisticmag.com). Yes it will kill fox and deer and yes, since its inception (2007 ?) it has been adopted (and adapted) for game hunting and specific bullets have been designed for that purpose it's still a chambering that was designed for a specific pupose, like a race car, great for going round the track but not so good for dropping the kids at footie or nipping down to ASDA. Mine you dead is dead (as you say) and if it lifts confidence that (having correctly identified the quarry and backstop) you can shoot foxy or bambi out at 300yds plus then go for it. 200 is pretty much my limit for Basil, closer with Roe.

The CRDMR was designed for long range target shootimg (Wiki tells me) as has a long chamber/lead to allow for the long and thin, high BC bullets suited for target shooting. It seems that the .2644 bullet best suited in your chanbering is the around the 120 to 130gn weight, in the long and thin, boat tailed variety, which is also suited to a fast twist (1:8) rather than the short, fat and explosive variety (which prefer a faster delivery through a slower twisting barrel). If you accellerated a 55gn varmint bullet through a 1:8 twist up to the 4100fps mark i imagine the centifugal forces would break the bullet apart shortly after it left the muzzel. A variation and a used .22-250 for foxing or a .243W with 55gn spitzers for foxy and a 90gn SP for small deer. I'm a great believer that rifles shouldn't be repurposed and aren't a one-size-fits-all. What you are trying to do (IMO) is redesign the planishing hammer as a screwdriver, the CRDMR is a refined, long range, target shooting winner, not a (relatively) close quarter varmint killer.

Under sections 1 and 2 of the 1968 Act, it is an offence for a person “to have in their possession or to purchase or acquire” a firearm - which (as I understand it) means that you can't pay for/buy a rifle unless you have authority to posess. The Romalpa clause states that title does not pass untill payment has been made, when at that moment, the goods/rifle is legaly yours. I would surmise that if a deposit is taken (by the seller) then you have entered into a contract of 'intent to purchase' but the goods still 'belong' to the seller. Until you pay in full at which time it belongs to you. @Popsbengohas it right IMO The complication is (with a firearm) that if you can't show (the seller - in this case an RFD) that you have legal authority to complete then he (probably) shouldn't accept your money. If you convince him that you have or will have authority to posess and he takes your money on that permise, if you subsequently don't get authority then you would have to rely on his good will to return your cash. That would be the awkward conversation mentioned ......

Yes you do What is that machine next to the AMP annealer ?