miki

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SF0YmmeEJK4

Photo's please - pm sent

Same as @phaedra1106uka squirt of w/up liquid and a 1/4 teaspoon of citric acid crystals (off Ebay)

Subsonic (around 1200fps) is about -6" to 100M right ? That shouldn't be a problem ..... tis only 6 MOA (just short of 2MiL) - deffo something amiss

Up to your usual standard Bruce. 🙂

Vhitavuori N135 here. With a 50gn Sierra SP (#1330) I get around 3580fps from 34.6gr - my loads will differ from yours and you should really work up from a lower charge wieght and check for pressure signs etc. I also load with N140 for the 55gn with a 36gr charge, again this may not be safe in your rifle so use the reccomended load charges from the Vhitavuori website.

Blued Chrome-Moly is a more resillient steel than Stainless. 416R Stainless is easier to machine to closer tolerances than a chrome-moly barrel but wears faster. As @Andy RVsays, 416R is more resistant to oxidisation. You can get your Stainless barrel blued using Oxynate 84, Niter Blueing doesn't work. Or you can Cerakote it. If you are thinking of a Carakote, then get a Chrome0Moly barrel. it's less expensive.

Is the ultrasonic cleaner this one ? 2L cleaner on eBay

Bumperoo

Handloading isn't a money saving exercise, it a fine tuning regime that allows you to produce a round of ammunition which provides a matched and consistent load. Increasing the performance of your rifle and (along the way) giving you a greater understanding of the forces involved. It (IMO) enhances the whole experience. Taking into consideration the cost of the tools you need (as @banus02said) you would need to be firing several hundred rounds a year to see any saving. In saying that handloading is very satisfying and enjoyable process and the feeling when you find/develop/produce an accurate load is well worth the effort (and expense) ...

For sale is my W800L add-on night sight. Bought in 2019 this is the newer version with the freely rotating clamp (so it doesn't hit the bolt when reloading). Used but not overly, no damage or scratches. This was mainly attached to a Delta Titanium on a .22-250 for foxing and laterly to a Hawke on a .22LR for rabbits. Now superceeded by dedicated units so hasn't been used since last year, I have fitted a cover over the on/off switch to stop me accidentally turning it on (see pics). The sight comes complete with the supplied scope adapotor rings (the black ones) and a couple I made up for the scopes I used plus the charger and an (unused) wrist strap. Perfect for both cflose (sub 80) and longer range vermin control with your existing scope. Ideal for a 2.5-15 or 3-18x50 scope. I have taken foxes 250yds + with this using a 67mm IR torch and my Delta Titanium 2.5-15x56 and was ideal on my .22 with a T20 torch shooting rabbits to 60yds. Price includes UK courier delivery. £600 For more info see here https://www.nightvisionstore.co.uk/ward-d-vision-800l-digital-night-vision-c2x21073830

🙈🙉🙊 @Discontinuedprobably this is the wrong group for this type of post. The (Deer) Stalking Directory would be much more entertaining The Stalking Group

Interested ... i'll pm you

I've only tried the FOX Classis Hunter in 45gr. In thier standard tipped form they were a tad unstable but removing the plastic tip helped (they just pull out). I made up a load (for my T3 rifle) with 35.2gr of Viht N135 which gave me around 3770fps. My case vol is 45.7gr/H2O' On fox these are devastating, as good as any other bullet, not sure on deer, in fact i'd say overall the .22-250 isn't a good deer rifle as the rifle fires the bullets so fast they tend to make a mess of what they hit. Or just drill a hole if they are bullets are not soft enough and/or the target is. The std 22-250 slow twist really only suits short dumpy bullets so a lead,55gr, SP is about as long as you'd want to go and @ 3410fps they still make a bit of a mess. I tend to use the Sierra Varmint 50gr for foxing, it zeros @ 50 and 195yds @ 3630fps so it's within a 2" circle out to 230yds (assuming i hold the rifle still), not that I shoot out to those distances, 200yds is about my max. At 150yds the 22-250 blows holes in anything I hit, the bullet is still travelling @ around 2820fps and carrying 900ft/lb. The few deer I have shot with the 22-250 have put me off as the deers insides are generally mush and the shoulders wasted, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but it realy wasn't.

The bang is caused by the hot compressed gasses meeting the colder, lower pressure air as they exit the barrel. To suppress this rapid expansion a moderator provides a chamber (into which the gasses can expand and cool) and an exit path to allow the bullet (projectile) to exit. Inside the chamber there are baffles which are designed to slow the gasses down and offer a large surface area to aid cooling. The quietest moderator will be the one with the largest internal chamber, greater number of efficiently designed baffles and an exit hole which is close to the diameter of the bullet/projectile. If you fire a .22-250 (5.7mm bullet) through 2 similar moderators, 1 with a 6.2mm bore and exit hole (.25mm radial clearance) and 1 with a 9mm hole (1.07mm radial clearance) then the moderator with the 9mm bore will be significantly louder. You may not be able to tell the difference firing the rifle but someone standing 600yds away will. Manufacturers have differing criteria for the bore size of thier baffle stacks and exit holes. Interestingly not many tell you what that bore size is, they just say it's 22cal or a 308cal. I use a magnum, vertex chambered (over barrel) DPT with a 6 baffle stack stamped "20cal" on my .224 rifles and, with the same config but with a .22cal baffle stack on my .25-06. All of my rifles are factory cut and DPT (like all really) have tight tollerance threaded components with align to their bore. The danger is that if you get too tight (bullet diameter to moderator bore) and if your rifle barrel has been threaded out of aligment with the bore. then you run the risk of clipping the baffle stack as the bullet passes through. Given that the baffle stacks are often less than 6" long things would have to be awfully awry to become a problem however, most manufacturers (in my experience) cautiously provide a 20 to 22.5% margin of error so thier 243cal (or 6mm) is actually 7.4mm in diameter. Which (in my opinion) is too big. Here's an interesting test ..... http://new.ersg.com/reviews-and-tests

Yes, Gordons Reloading Tool (GRT). I moved from QL to GRT which (in my opinion) is much better. GRT_Tools

Don't think that's true. DPT don't have a proof stamp nor does the Freyer. As far as I am aware there is absolutely no requirement whatsoever.

Good article ....

eBay ... around £4 for a tap. Because it's brass you don't need anything to expensive. The 7.3mm drills are about the same cost. You can use a hand/battery drill although a bench drill would be better. I drill a hole the same size the case body in a piece of softwood which I then cut in half and clamp in a vice, holding the case solid is key.

No problem

I'd be interested in the limbsaver de-resonators .....

All gone from here, just keyrings left (they aren't free though)

PM sent

Sierra 50gr gone ... 1 bag of 55gr Varmint/Spitzers (PPU I think) left.

Well done @Savage Steve I have some (free) bullets too. 1 bag of .224, FB, 55gr Spritzers and a keyring and 2 bags (50 off) of Sierra FB, 50gr Spitzers (#1330) and a keyring Postage to UK only please (no Europe/Poland/USA etc) £5 each. 1 per person/address only. Keyring come in .223, 22-250, 243, 25-06, 308 and 30-06 (just let me know what cal).