miki

I appreciate that .... I can swap it for a standard RCBS die and £45 ? (he who doesn't ask ...)

£60 for the micrometer seating die any good ? I don't ned the competition resizing die ...

I meant 1MOA (25mm @ 100 and 50mm @ 200M) not +/- 50mm, sorry, my mistake. I tend to wobble more than that anyway although resting on front and rear bags I can repeatedly hit a 4" gong at 200M, off sticks I need to be much more careful/attentive to get 3 of 5, or closer ....

Download and learn to use Gordons Reloading Tool (GRT). I am not an F Class shooter but would assume that you need the maximum velocity, burning 100% of the powder whilst maintaining minimum harmonic disturbance of the barrel/muzzel. Consistency is key, if you can repeatedly throw the same wieght, high BC, bullet @ XXXXfps with POA adjustment you will repeatedly hit the target in the same place. It all sound easy ..... but it isn't. It's also remarkably expensive to achieve. You need: A good and accurate set of weigh scales. A precision measuring caliper. Brass cases with the same internal volume. Bullets that weigh the same. A rigid, consistent press. I don't shoot above 300M so +/-20fps is about my limit and I find that difficult to achieve (not impossible). +/-50mm @ 200M is fine for the targets/distances I shoot at. https://www.recoilweb.com/chasing-muzzle-velocity-standard-deviation-and-extreme-spread-for-precision-rifle-shooting-152257.html

No dispersions casted. Relax I took a punt, they are not for me. Had they have been +2's they would have been excellent.

Glasses recieved, they are not +2, they are also bi-focals. The main lenses are possibly -1 or -2 for a myopic correction (short-sighted) I am far-sighted so need a positive correction (+1.5 to +2). Wearing these glasses is like putting a plastic bag over my head .... Perfect for someone who is slightly myopic as they fill your field of view, or for someone who wants to spent over £50 on a set of new lens's (so circa £75 for a set of glasses), neither of which is me Contact @Bob D for purchasing oppertunities.

Thanks. I will take them. Hope the move goes smoooooth ....

I will take these (if they come back) as I load .223, .257 and .308 and they are just what I need...

Have these sold ? If not I am interested.

First check the length of the bullet against the twist rate of your barrel to ensure it will be stable. I suggest you plan on 3100fps There are several online, try this one https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/ You haven't said where you are, some of the above powders aren't available in the UK. I'd look on the Vihtavouri website https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/rifle-reloading/?cartridge=7 Some brass is better than others (its complicated) but the 'key' is that you need to know the volume and your brass which should all be pretty similar. If you make up a load for one case and the next is (intenally) smaller then the pressure will be higher. Do you have a reloading manual ? If not get one and read it before you start...

I'll take a punt on them .... Please PM me your payment details and i'll send you my address and £25 Thanks

What are your lenses (+2) ?

Indeed it is. Peregrine bullets (made in South Africa) are an excellent "machined monolithic bullet" manufacture. Definately at the top of the tree and the VRL5 and Glider are a great practice and target round with a really high BC. I have trouble with the monolithics as my rifles don't have the fast twist rate needed to stabilise these bullets. With regards to education i'm pretty sure that Adriaan Rall and Corno Van Rooyen would prefer you to reference thier products with the correct terminology. Good luck with the sale of these excellent bullets which you are offering at a great price.

Wouldn't it be more satisying to educate people, or at least point out that a Bullet is a Bullet and a Round of Ammunition comprises; bullet, powder, brass and primer and that the term 'Bullet Head' is completely wrong ? How do you explain 'headspace' to people ? What do you call the opposite end of the brass case (ie the bit with the primer pocket) ? https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/round-of-ammunition https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ammunition

I've got to ask .... Why do you call them bullet 'Heads' ?

It's not weight it's length... although if you have a fixed diameter then the heavier the bullet the longer it is. Brass (bullets) of a similar weight, being less dense than lead, are longer to start with. The shorter the twist rate, the faster the bullet spins the longer it can be to remain stable in flight. Decreasing the twist (from 1:10 to 1:8) won't effect/limit the shorter/lighter bullets it will allow you to use longer bullets without loss of accuracy/stability.

Not if the green circle is 10" wide .... (only joking)

@Richiewstd .22-50 twist rates struggle to stabilise bullets over 18mm long and as your load tables above indicate, H414 (the slower burning of the two) is partnered with the heavier bullets (60gr and above). 55gr soft/hollow point, flat base projectiles are approaching the maximum length/weight ratio. Boat tails struggle as do any of the non-toxic varieties (less dense metal = longer) even @ 55gr. Suggesting 60gr and above is really not advisable unless you know that @.22-250Andyhas a non standard barrel ?

One of the first things you should do is read a reloading manual, and drop the "head" when you are refering to a "bullet" as the 'head' is something else entirely. H380 was designed for the 22-250 so will be an ideal powder as there is a large amount of recipes and data available on t'internet. H414 is a slower burning powder suited to the heavier end on the bullet range, which is narrow anyway due to the slow twist rate, I never had much success with 414 in my 22-250, it was better for the larger cals, 25-06 and 30-06 for example. The main issue is that you will work up a load and then discover that the Hodgsons powders are not available in Europe due to REACH regulations. Vihtavouri would therefore be a better starting point as @paskymentioned. However ... You will get around 200 loads from a pound (you haven't said how big your tubs are) so if you don't shoot much perhaps it won't worry you that you need to start load developing again so soon ?

N140 I use with 55gn Sierra's and N135 with lighter bullets (45 and 50gn). These bullets are/this cal is more suited to fox which I don't mind blowing holes in, I found a .22-250 caused a lot of damage to Roe. As a foxing rifle/cal it's superb, point and shoot out to 250M

But if you are alone, with cartridges 'in your possesion' (honestly copper, the owner just left them there and went out for a pizza) then you are in breach of the Act. If A N Other was there who had authority to posses then the line, "them's his copper, honest" would suffice.

Making ammunition is ilegal, if he does not have authority to posses (section 2 of his FAC).

No, however your FLO would want to know why you have them. I had exactly that recently as i'd applied for a .223 I had dies, cases. bullets (I load .22-250) powder and some small primers. Making up a round would have been an offence but having the components isn't and I had an excuse as I was waiting for the application to be granted.

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What do you mean by a skeleton stock ?