miki

Do you need to up the sensitivity of the coil perhaps ? It sure doesn't make sense that a lighter bullet with the same load would go slower .....

Hi Yes please. I'm in Lanark, we could meet somewhere and exchange, Bathgate or Livingstone ? I'll PM you

Most likely. 2 or 3 thou (.002 to .003) is normal not 20 .... as neck tension increases so does the rise in pressure

One of these ....eBay linky with a mix of between 10 to 20 parts IPA to 1 part Lanolin

Have you got the original invoice, if so, I am interested ...

Should be fine as is... MDF absorbs water readily but that's not common on a reloading bench. If you want seal it you could 'wash' it with a 50/50 PVA (wood glue) and water solution. That way if you knock your tea over it'll not soak in

The foxes will come to where the food is, by the sound of it, the village chicken pens. if you can find a place with a safe backstop (a high seat near the perimeter fence for example) and you can see reasonably far (say out to 3 or 400M) you will be able to spot them coming in with a thermal. A .22-250 is a good cal for foxes, fast, flatshooting and deadly out to 200M. Ranging at night is not easy so the flat trajectory/point and shoot works well. Working out their routes to the sheds will help. Foxes are habitual so sitting out with the thermal/NV spotter and understanding where the wind is coming from will also aid in your quest. As far as callers go., the modern electronic types (Icotec for example) are good and do a far better job of emulating a chicken in distress than I can. The cubs are above ground now but won't be far from the den. The adults are out hunting and bringing food back. In a few weeks the adults will be taking the young out to their feeding sites. By the end of August into September the cubs will be out foraging alone and they are 'easier' to entice. If you set up near the sheds around an hour before dusk(ish) and you should see them, distressed rabbit/mouse calls (squeakers and/or the polystyrene/mirror will work) as the vixens are out hunting to feed the cubs who have been sleeping most of the day. Shoot a few rabbits and bait for a few days.

There is, one at each end .... 😉

With a bullet diameter of 11.6mm you'd need a mod with a bore approaching 12mm at the tightest and 12.8mm to offer a deal of wriggle room. It would be huge .... surely what you just shot, with such a behemoth, mates aren't going to run off under the hedgerow and you'll want to frighten off it's buddies + any other predators in the close vicinity ? I'd think the best moderator for such a cal would be a good pair of earplugs. Alternatively, a pretty, curvy, long (dark) haired jungle goddess wearing a suitably scanty, torn, chamois leather bikini could stand entwined with her fingers in your ears ?

You can send them in the post. I have also sent bullets by MyHermes as they become cheaper (than the post) as the weight increases. For a 'next day' service, i'd recommend DPD-local How many are you wanting to send ?

Have a look here ... Moderator test and Comparison I like DPT. They are light, strippable and, by being modular, you can get additional baffles.I have several all are vertex chambered (over barrel) and all are "smaller" than cal specific. For example I have the 20cal on my .22-250 and a .22 stainless baffle and 6mm stack for my .25-06 The less radial clearance the greater the noise reduction is the rule of thumb. By this I mean that the 20cal baffle stack is a lot quieter on my .22-250 than the 6mm baffle stack which is also more efficient than a 30cal stack. You also can increase the suppression by having a larger expansion chamber, I have magnum chambers and additional baffles, which again was part of the attraction of DPT. The felt recoil is reduced and the MV is higher (by a few fps). Freyer and Devik are good too, but are somewhat specific, ie you can't add or remove baffles. They are light (as are DPT) and they are strippable. The pic is of my 'double magnum' vertex chambered, DPT mod, with a 5 + 1 stainless baffle stack. There is more moderator behind the muzzel than infront. This now sits on my .22-250 (with a 20cal stack) and does an excellent job of taming his loudness ☺️

Heres an old thread. You can tell its old by the pice (£345) I think they are 30% more now .... LEM Thread Linky

Lovely an ideal foxing round (the .22-250)

No pictures ?

A good quality rail on a good quality action should (IMO) be aligned with the rifle bore. A good quality rail screwed onto the action with the correct torque should also be aligned to the bore. Good quality mounts and rings (correctly torqued) should therefore be centered to the bore. So the scopes ret (in this case) must be off center, which 'might' be possible on a Hawke or a Nikko Stirling (for example) but not so in an S&B, Swaro, March or other quality scope (i'd hope). I must admit i've never encountered (noticed) this problem. Is this a 'real' issue @CRUACH or hypothetical ?

Could it be that the OP needs to change his rings over (front to back) ? Is it the rings/mounts that are introducing the error ??

OK ... I didn't think that 0.12mm would be an issue although it is much thicker tha Mylar which comes in 25micron thick sheet.

Can you still get H4895 as its not REACH compliant (as it contains Ddinitrotoluene) ? Viht N140 is becoming the standard (a quick internet search reveals) and would be more readilly available..

I was thinking that i'd like to be that consistent that i'd notice too

1 Mil is 3.6" @ 100yds or 91.44M - 109.36Yds = 100M so 1MRAD = 99.998 (say 100)mm - 0.1MRAD = 10mm (+/5mm) @ 100M Are you out in El or Az ? I guess El is easier as you could put a shim under the back or front scope ring, a piece of 35mm film, or Mylar sheet would be ideal.

A picture used to be worth a Thousand words, these days, its only 350 but I think it really helps when selling...

Your photos need to be reduced in size (probably). 1280 x 1024 is as large as most peoples pc screen and will show lots of detail at less than 1MB ... Is the shotgun a 12 or 20 bore ?

Found this on t'internet ... it looks complicated

Its just the polite British way of indicating that you're now old. Welcome to the club. As the newest member it's your turn to get the drinks ...

Nice looking gun ....