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Popsbengo

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About Popsbengo

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Staffs
  • Interests
    Long range shooting.
    6.5CM, .308, .338LM
    Precision reloading.
    Climbing up and sliding down mountains
    Sailing other peoples boats
    Engineering & science

Recent Profile Visitors

2,105 profile views
  1. +1 on hollow ground screwdriver blades, makes the job right.
  2. I fitted a "Wild West" trigger to my Marlin (Remlin) .44Rem and that was the single best thing done. I also set to work with diamond stone and wet n' dry on rubbing surfaces (being very careful with sear etc to ensure ramp angles were not changed, just polished). As new (2015) it was appalling and I don't exaggerate, it was just crap. It's quite good now. I believe Marlins are much better out of the box now, I think I had one of the dreadful first batch after Marlin production was transferred to Remington. My Henry 45/70 was just fine out of the box, no fettling required.
  3. Hardness testing on soft metals like brass is really difficult and requires careful prep and precision equipment. I feel the tool used in the video is crude and there was no evidence of any process to prep brass for testing. As others say: the whole point of 'annealing' is to improve groups and give a longer life to the brass (or the other way around if you prefer). I agree with earlier posts that real-world testing is what's required. I use molten salt which works very well (irrespective of the AMP negative press release). I get very good results on both fronts. The stress relieving
  4. you might find a regulator useful - the gas pressure drops as the bottle cools from evaporation and that reduces gas pressure. Before I discovered a better method of annealing without gas (IMHO), I found a large propane bottle with gas regulator worked much better than small bottles - far more predictable.
  5. The Labradar is truly a bugga to set up especially with a mod. I have made an inertial trigger that works well every time however it's still really important to align and sight in to avoid the loss of tracking error. I'm quite happy to share the circuit diagram f.o.c. to those with a bit of electronics knowledge (provided there's a promise not to make money off my design).
  6. I have a 24" 1:11 barrel. I use 185 Jugs at 1000yds, very good indeed. I can't stabilise anything heavier than 185. I find 155 Lapua Scenars are excellent out to 600 but from then on the heavier and more aerodynamic Berger 185 has the legs.
  7. a sort of a whizzing sound?, but seriously, I wonder if the Danes/Krauts have developed a solution on their ranges as users of non-lead?
  8. Defence Infrastructure Organisation: The Ministry of Defense's civilian support outfit, they run ranges and manage landlord duties etc. Landmarc are a primary contractor to DIO
  9. Just received a note from DIO regarding non-lead projectiles. The up-side (if any) is it adds weight to the argument to retain lead. "Issue, Non-leaded munitions fail to fragmentate when they hit the tgt and further breakup into the stop butt. This causes balling, which increases the risk of back splash and ricochet. DOSR WG have yet to understand what measures we are to adopt to manage non-lead munitions, there is very little to analyse. DIO have placed a restriction on all non-leaded munitions and Civilian Gun Clubs are NOT allowed to use on any UK DIO Ranges for the foreseeab
  10. 43.5gr N150 works very well for me under Berger 185 Jugs. 24" 1:11 twist, excellent at 1000yds. I use LRP brass in .308, and will continue as my accurate loads aren't so hot as to benefit from SRP. I may try RS as I use RS62 in my 6.5 Creedmore and it's excellent and so clean (which is SRP Lap brass)
  11. Also been there, done that, bought the T shirt - no worries, thanks for the input
  12. It's an idea, however I'm trying to avoid DIY solutions. I've found Savage make a 11" pull and a 13" pull rifle. Both have short barrels so also aiding the balance for little people.
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