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About VarmLR

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  1. VarmLR

    Not Shooting is expensive..

    Managed to get more powders just in time so reloading for all cals for hunting/vermin control. Should see me through the year if this lock down is finished. Also attempted to measure my own pupilary distance and bought a coupe pairs more specs online saving me a fortune over opticians...after getting the first pair s bit wrong (hadn't realised I had different PDs for each eye), specsavers kindly released my measured data. I was spot on overall but 2mm off to one side! Bought more stock for the business and for upcoming jobs. Got a list to do for the cars and bike. Deep clean, polish the car bodies after cutting back and a three step fine coat polish before applying sealer. Service the bike ready for summer (hopefully) and if my arm injury heals up any time soon, build a retaining wall above the river flowing past our back garden as the existing wooden one's about to collapse (been saying that for years LoL!). Oh, and picking uyp a new pup next week so will have an 8 week old pup ready to start training...starting with house training! (I think I'm allowed a pick up under animal welfare reasons).
  2. VarmLR

    Barrrel life

    Using N140 and now RS50 in my 308 I have just under several thousand rounds down it and checking the lands it's still as good as new...they've moved back fractionally but the bore looks great. The 223 has had some hot loads through it, mostly N133 and RS50 and on my new barrel I'm up to around 1200 rounds on that with slightly more throat erosion than the .308. I'll dig my notes out but I think the throat had gone back about 5 thou. I may load back a bit as I want at least another 5,000 rounds from that barrel. 6.5CM...moderate loads for SRP brass using RS62 and no discernible wear after about 700 rounds through that. Hopeful for at least 4000 rounds out of that barrel as long as I keep loads moderate. I won't touch any double base powder with a long bargepole as I don't shoot comp and can't justify a new barrel every season at £750 a pop!
  3. VarmLR

    Where are all the hardcore Varmint hunters gone ?

    N133 is widely available here and great with 223 bullet weights of up to 60grns. I use RS50 for 223 heavies. Got better velocities using that than N140 as well as better groups.
  4. VarmLR

    N140 and .260Rem

    N140 won't be ideal.. N160 would be the better Vhit choice really. The listing on the N140 load data sheets for Vhit only list a couple of the medium/heavier 260 bullets being the 130grn Berger VLD and Swift Scirocco II, and the lighter 120 gr Barnes TTSX. The trouble with reading off bullet weights if you intend on replicating any of those loads (as you're probably aware) is that you may not be comparing like with like even for the same weights, so for example the VLD may have a shorter wall length than a more tangent or hybrid bullet shape of the same weight. Using the latter could well result in higher pressures for the same comparative loads, so if you must use just one powder, you have answered your own question really, with the caveats in mind, start light and work up. You could ask someone with QL to run a check for you based on your barrel length and bullet details. That probably wouldn't be a bad place to start if you must stick to just N140. If it were me though I'd use the more suited powder. I use three different powders for three different cals and the only thing you have to be careful with is mixing them up! There's a good reason not many people use N140 for the 260...it's just not the ideal powder, and unlike the equivalent TR140/RS50, the velocity's from my own tests with using both are that Vhit tends to concentrate most velocity gains in the last few grains of load, whereas the RS is a lot more uniform with more of a straight line gain in velocities so you may end up disappointed. If you have some, why not give it a try and see for yourself though? The nearest powder to Hodgons popular H4350 is likely to be RS62 which is a very common replacement for both 260Rem and 6.5 CM and that will see you safely up to the heavier 6.5mm bullets but also work well with the lighter ones. Personally, I'd use that or the N160.
  5. VarmLR


    I wonder though if that will be the case? I used to buy RS powders for about £70/kilo but that source has dried up and I'm now paying closer to £80 for that and £88 for Vhit which seems to have gone up from last year. I can get Hogdon for about the same cost per 2lbs, so around 10% more expensive. The gap used to be more than that but price increases for the European powders are probably down to the £ falling on the $ this past few years which has levelled things up a lot.
  6. VarmLR

    Where are all the hardcore Varmint hunters gone ?

    Thanks chap but really I don't claim any expertise and am always humbled by the depth and spread of knowledge on here and what a valuable resource it has become for many. You're always learning something new and I find to keep an open mind and listen to the experience of others has prevented me making errors of choice in the past and no doubt will do in the future. It's good to hear what other folks use on a day to day basis and what they might like or dislike about it. The mistake I made from the off (before being hampered with injuries) was building up platforms that were too heavy really for lugging about all day in the field and if I've learned one thing about field work where plodding the miles is involved, best to travel as light as possible. I still plod on with my two principle long range rifle set-ups and really it's the scopes which drag me down. The Nightforce on the 223 and a long barrel mean it weights in at 11 3/4 lbs but that's lightweight compared with the Tik-Tac A1 Creedmoor shod with a S&B PMII. That's a bit of a beast for lugging around so I tend to use it where I'm targeting specific quarry that I generally shoot from fixed points involving no more than a mile's walk. My stalking these days is generally focused on controlling the local growing Muntjac population and I do favour the 223 using 55gr SKGs or Sierra 69gr TMKs. For most of my sub 300yd work on corvid control I use 40grn Vmax flat base bullets (only because I bought 600 of the things and need to use them up!). I do still use the 308 for more woodland stalking and that's got a DMR sat atop which I may change for a 6x42 at some point. I stick with one bullet, the SGK 155 soft point. For up to 400yd crows and magpies plus the odd squirrel I use the Creedmoor and wind bucking high BC 140gr SSTs which also come in handy for the odd muntjac although they tend to make a right mess at close quarters and after having to lug a heavy rifle an 18 Kilo buck back last outing will think again about doing the same for any length of walk!
  7. VarmLR

    Where are all the hardcore Varmint hunters gone ?

    Thanks brown dog, and thanks to you for your hard work on this forum and very balanced moderation. I appreciate that you won't tolerate what some others might which helps make this place what it is.
  8. VarmLR

    Where are all the hardcore Varmint hunters gone ?

    Still here, still shooting vermin, but I don't post as much as I used to (bar recently) because forums generally ebb and flow with a lot of the same topics and information being covered. I took a break from forums for a while as I felt many had become too cliquey and if you weren't "in the clique" there could be quite a lot of disrespect floating about...not on this one I hasten to add, but certainly on another one, possibly the other main shooting forum on the UK. That one has gone downhill rapidly with a real low common denominator to the extent that many topics read as if penned by spoiIed or belligerent teenagers. I was also disillusioned by the undignified goings on in one of the UK's premier LR shooting clubs this past 18 months and really it made my mind up to keep my hobby as my hobby and with the exception of my primary club (which is like a big friendly family) I don't "do" clubs because it means necessarily having to deal with some that test the patience. I love my shooting and have done for donkey's years, from when it was part of my job to becoming my main hobby. I also take a break when, if after genuinely trying to contribute, the response sometimes is less than welcoming by the argumentative few who always know best. I have no truck with such people and do not suffer fools gladly, possibly a hang up from my past life. For all the negative there's a lot more positive on here though. It's a great place to discuss the finer points of reloading and shooting skills and join in the banter. Something was lost though with the sad loss of a few members including George and Bradders (RIP both). I try not to publish too much about what or where I shoot (bar target) as it runs the risk of becoming a target, as foxdropper has discovered, for dissent and anti's. I just don't understand how those joining a site entitled UK VARMINTING can be that way. Perhaps some have the wrong idea or wrong forum? We are under enough pressure from the outside without making things difficult for members on the inside. Of course it always pays to stay within the bounds of decency as this information is very public and we need to be ambassadors for our sport. For the most part, I have little interest in making or even watching videos. I'd rather use the time more productively, learning something new each day, perfecting skills and getting out as much as possible, which is less than I'd like these days! One thing does interest me is what everyone uses as their main vermin control rifle set-ups? For long range small ground quarry and feathered pests, I find myself pretty much sticking with the little .223 as for the UK I find it really is the Jack of all trades, and I love the variety of loads available (tight twist barrel in my case allowing 45 to 80grn). Longer range or more challenging conditions and the 6.5 comes out of the cabinet. I've sat an older Nightforce scope on top of the 223 and dial, using Strelock Pro, a handheld anemometer and also use a Leice RF...that's about all the kit I carry and have my manual ballistic charts to fall back on which I've developed for each load.
  9. VarmLR

    RS70 temperature sensitivity

    RS62 works very well with high BC 140/142 grn. Even at moderate loads I was getting decent velocities using it. Full case loads. It was RS themselves that did the QL for me on the RS62 and it does achieve full powder burn (99%) in my 24 inch barrel according to their predictions and seems more optimal in velocity terms than the RS70 and also is a little kinder on barrels when loading up to anywhere near full case levels being a lower energy powder. My load was 43.6gr for 2650fps (140 SST) in SRP brass.
  10. VarmLR

    Hunting with 6.5 creedmoor

    I've used both cals on small game, including muntjac. Bullet choice matters in either case. Too much is made about calibres and not enough on accuracy of shot placement and bullet construction. Beginners often get the advice to stick with the "more reliable" .308 but the truth is that in energy terms there's little between them but sectional density and velocity can be markedly different and a bullet that works in one well may not work in the other so well. I agree with Andrew. Not much will get up from a well placed 140gr SGK in 6.5 irrespective of deer size, and whilst the wound channel won't be quite as large as the equivalent 150grn SGK in .308, I've yet to get a runner with one. I have had runners with the .308 and I've seen deer heart shot run 100yds before dropping which on examination has a large chunk of their ticker missing! Switching to HILAR bullet placement has made kills much more reliable IME and loading and practising for accuracy gives confidence in CNS area being hit. If I I can't hit it or there's any doubt, I wont take the shot, where someone faced with a deer side on even if moving might be tempted to take an engine room shot. Be it .243/6.5 or .308, a CNS hit will result in a bang-flop every shot. After discovering this I'm bemused as to why organisations like the BDS still propose the engine room as the most reliable shot when experience shows that's just not the case. The other thing which steered me towards the HILAR placement was that especially when using the .308 on Muntjac, well placed boiler room shots were still bursting the stomach ands gut through hydraulic action. Far less so when hit anywhere in the CNS area. My take on ther cal thing. Buy both, shoot both, enjoy both. 308 would be my choice for boar. There's a reason it's still one of the worlds most popular calibers. It works well on medium and some large game. The 6.5 has the legs at distance so if shooting over terrain like NZ where shooting across valleys often results in 600plus yd distances, I'd pick the 6,5 or 7mm-08 over the .308 as BC matters more where distances and windage make things more difficult. It's not really something to generalise on, but just apply a little thought and there's good arguments for both. For the UK, I'd still rather have the 6.5 as it's so much sweeter shooting, and using SGKs it's a very reliable stopper and superbly accurate. The .308 is fine and no more expensive to load for but my personal choice would be the 6.5 as I just get on better with it. If I wanted a day on boar though, I'd pick up the .308. In that case, the option of a much heavier projectile and a wider wound channel shot over relatively short distances are the ideal tool for boar.
  11. VarmLR

    Load development

    Laurie also wrote some very informative articles on both LR and SR comparisons published in accurateshooter.com and targetshooter.co.uk
  12. VarmLR

    308 hunting loads

    I use 150gr SGK and either 43.8gr N140 or RS50 (same charge for both works well). Sub moa load in my T3.
  13. VarmLR

    Load development

    Just don't mix up KVB 223's with the 223M versions! Despite calling them the "KVB223" imho these are unsuitable for chamber pressures in 223, and in SR 6.5x47 and 6.5CM. Cup thickness for the KVB-223 is 0.020" and for the 223M is 0.025" but AFAIK the charge type/mass is the same so they're not a "hot" variety. I found out at my cost not to use .02" cup primers in my 223 where I experienced some blown primers and gas-cut bolt faces on charges that were within acceptable published limits. The SR brass for 6.5's should use the thicker Magnum moniker primers, such as CCI450 and KVB-223M to reduce risks of blowing primers, especially when loading "hot".
  14. VarmLR

    Load development

    I use the Muron KVB 223M for both the 223 and 6.5 SR primer brass. I haven't yet tried the 450's but have a batch of them here so might try them and see whether I get a similar result.
  15. VarmLR

    Load development

    That''s a very valid point Mark and one which doesn't seem to be widely recognised. I must admit that it's ES I work on and usually pay little store on Sd from low count groups especially. It's still worth noting though (and pretty inescapable) that smallest groups, unless consistent/repeatable, are not always a reliable indicator of low ES. Low vertical dispersion can be a better indicator but at 100 yds I still use ES together with group size because I've seen too many large ES groups still fall into similar group sizes as low ones on a one off OCW test. By "large" I mean too large if considering optimal charge weight for long distance (I try for ES10 but for my vermin shooting where longest range tends to be inside 400yds, 15 to 20 is acceptable). Anything over 20 and I look for a different bullet or primer if I can't optimise on charge/seating distance.

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