Roy W

Is anyone able to explain the process for stripping down an AI bolt? Removing the shroud and firing pin etc. Can't seem to find instructions anywhere? Cheers

Join the NRA, £75 for the year, includes Insurance

It's to do with the safety area. The military shoot .338 at Bisley, but the NRA deem them to be more responsible and less likely to send one over the top of the backstop. Having seen some of the club shooters at Bisley, I am inclined to agree with their caution!

Ok many thanks

Hi, If the skins will also fit an AW I will take them please. I tried to PM you but it bounced, so your mailbox may be full, thanks Roy

2nd Edition, excellent condition, includes the CD Rom Small tear inside rear cover as shown, otherwise excellent. £50 includes First Class Signed For delivery

Enter the Historic Service Rifle comp at Bisley on the 3rd Oct. See how it performs Good fun, plenty of help with the course of fire, friendly people and a great half day's shooting

Lovely workhorse

It looks like a Skoda Yeti that's put on weight

He does and he's already answered it for the OP on another forum where the same question was posted.

Beautiful rifle Dave, can't beat walnut!

Congratulations for your perseverence

Yep, so the Rifle is definitely LB 10L0234 The Bolt is probably a BSA Bolt, given the A prefix, which would fit with the round cocking piece and an early prefix The Mag is a Savage stamped by someone to try and match the rifle, but failed miserably because they didn't have an 'L' stamp. I would get the headspace sorted and if it shoots well, just enjoy it

I wouldn't choose a class because someone else shoots in it. Choose the class that you feel is right for you.

Who knows who did it. I would have thought an Armourer would have made a better job, the '4' is the wrong way round on the bolt. Collector wise it affects the price, but it's a bog standard Mk1* so it's not worth a fortune anyway. The bolt may explain the headspace issue, so definitely check it out. The mag may be genuine, just stamped up by someone. It should have the LB on there somewhere if longbranch. If it shoots well once the headspace is sorted, then the bolt is academic as a shooter, just enjoy it

It's a nice early LB. I think the bolt is a renumbered one from another rifle, the handle looks skimmed and you can see another number underneath. It looks like it was an A prefix number underneath, the A is still visible under the '1' Can you post a picture of the left hand side of the butt socket showing the serial number? The magazine number is similar to the rifle, but with a '0' instead of an 'L' , my guess is someone wanted to number the mag to make it look matching but only had number stamps available. None of my LB mags are numbered.

Yours is the 110,234th Longbranch No.4 produced. The woodwork will be Canadian Walnut, not Oak. Oak was never used. If it closes on a no go gauge then don't fire it, get it checked by a gunsmith with proper headspace gauges who knows what they are doing. Is it in proof? I have been sold two Longbranch Rifles in the last 12 mths and neither had any British Proof marks. This was remedied, and now both are proofed. If yours isn't then the seller has committed an offence and needs to get it proofed for you asap. The woodwork will come off easily, at least the forends will. Give the wood a wipe down with something to get the gunk off such as white spirit with fine wire wool and then treat it properly with linseed oil, light coats and it will/should come up lovely. The round cocking piece is unusual for a Mk1* of the age of yours, they changed to square ones before then so maybe it's been changed by a previous owner. Some photos would be nice

Playing Devil's Advocate, if I sold something a year ago, then the buyer tried to get a refund a year later (regardless of the reason) I would be reluctant to engage. There can't be an indefinite period for someone to find issue or change their mind. Whilst I don't doubt anything that has been said, if it was me and I hadn't done anything for a year, I'd chuck the powder and put it down to experience.

I am currently having a USMC sniper clone made. It took a long while to find a nice 1903A1, they simply aren't around. If you want a C stock version then it may take even longer. I wouldn't bother looking for a NM rifle, you'll be looking for a long time and, as already said, why get a rare rifle like that then drill holes in it? The Hi-Lux Malcolm USMC 8x scope clone is a well made optic and comes complete with the bases. Then find a decent gunsmith to fit it and scallop the top cover.

Very nice. That rifle was originally sold by Enfield to AJ Parker in Birmingham, dispatched on the 3rd Nov 1970

Can you post photos of the sidewall engraving and confirm serial number please? Is the bolt matching?

He can't sell/dispose or give to you unless it is deactivated to the new EU standards. His options are - Do the work to upgrade it and get a new certificate or give it to an RFD to do. If he gives/sells it to you as it is then you both break the law

Agreed, but that's not what you said, hence my reply. Your post inferred that 1-4-1's were only for like calibres. Every slot has to have justification, but your point is well made for a newbie who might not think about that.

It neither has to be the same calibre, same type of firearm or even a firearm slot for a 1-4-1. EG I have swapped a Spare Barrel slot for a RIfle and a 22 Rifle slot for a 308/7.62 rifle slot. Some forces try to impose a 'you must request the 1-4-1 within 'X' number of days. This is not correct, the guidance clearly states their is no time limit in doing so.

Beautiful watch. Something about OMEGAs, just classy