terryh

just looking at the same cartridge, going for a fast twist as really only looking towards the heavy end of the spectrum re bullets. Primarily 105g Hybrids T

Just playing with QL (yes, I finally bought my own copy! 🤔) and looking at the 6 Dasher amongst others. Does anyone have the LOA and the H20 capacity for the Norma brass to hand please? About to go travelling and will give me something to do on the plane Cheers Terry

Dave, The Sig dark grey looks very tidy! - purposeful Nice T

Apply a bit of heat locally first, in case some *uck-whit has used the wrong grade of thread locking fluid!! this will break down the bond (a bit) T

Settling on 36g N140 which ran 2712fps - surprising close to the QL prediction. No signs of pressure, primers still well rounded edges etc. T

JJ What sort of shooting stalking or range? My ‘from the hip’ reply would be go layered so not one item, as I’ve found the ‘multi purpose’ normally means ‘multi useless’ T

Just picked up some of the Real Turmat’s in a Stavanger outdoors/hunting shop to try, will post results, not such bad prices in the end 👌 Price of rifles vs UK is horrendous, but then again Norway’s not known for being cheap 😱

Michal shot a couple of friends TikTacs and there are indeed very good. in saying that the BMPs that some folks have bought in my old club are also doing very well. do not envy your position T

Martin, There is nothing wrong with factory ammo (or rifles come to that) these days, sometimes I wonder if reloading is actually worth it - but it is therapeutic and necessary in some cases. Here is a group recently shot with a friends factory Tikka tac21 in 6.5 Creedmore using Factory Hornady ammo, distance 285 yards. Find the factory ammo that works and buy 500 and put together the kit to reload in the mean time, you've then 500 brass to start with. Brgds T ps - Caveat - I think cocaine is actually cheaper than shooting 🤣

Woodlander, running a die nut or even better an adjustable die down the thread is a simple task - if you take it easy!! found this bunch useful in the past: https://www.tracytools.com/ Terry

Saucer - have you actually tired Mugshots!! Was stuck in Baku and ‘had’ to eat one (only thing to hand in apartment at time) - God’s teeth, powdery pap. 🤮 Sorry, each to their own, as I said, my aim was to have a nice lunch. 😎 T

Think N150 is the powder in the Lapua factory 6.5x47 not tried it in my 47, running N140 under 130g Berger OTM’s , 36g gives just over 2800fps with low ES and SD ( but only 5 shot groups so the SD value’s a bit moot) looking at 4166 as the starting powder in a 6mm Dasher under 105 Berger Hybrids T

ColinBR I used an adapter with the Harris and it all locked up tight, where is the un-steadiness coming in?? You can use Annie rail-specific bi-pods or simply drill and mount a length of Picatinny rail on the for-end, which is what i did to use a QR Atlas. The MPR is a real nice rifle, found R50 worked in mine. T

These covers where the 1st thing Tony ever made, long before TAB gear came into being. He saw the issues as a Snipers Hide match with dust and made so came up with the rifle cover, it has enough padding on the scope to be useful but not bulky, it fits round your bi-pod to you can stand the rifle up off the ground and if its raining you can drop the cover cross ways over the scope & action to stop water getting into things. Goes on and off easily. T

Andy, The TAB rifle cover is your friend, exactly what you are describing, been using them for years, very good quality, not Chinese knock off materials nor made in a sweat shop etc. Thus: https://www.tabgear.com/products/rifle-cover Terry

😧 Gosh! (Caveat - have not seen the built list) Nowt wrong with good factory rifles these days. T

Tralle, Will look for them next time in Norway - but at £10++ a go they better be bloody good! T

Ro6.5 The process of sending back to McM and having them do ‘any’ work would IMHO be long and expensive Find a UK smith who can do the work. The butt pad should not be too much of an issue, the adjustable cheek piece might take a bit more doing, I believe (but could be wrong here?) that an adjustable cheek piece is something that is an option from the get go i.e. the stock is made in two pieces, the body with a cut out and the adjustable cheek piece, with the ‘GRP’ of the stocks skin being homogeneous - not just cut to give a loose cheek piece (if you get what i mean?) That is not to say someone cannot sort out a system for you T

Back to OP - it is all down to your Gunsmith if you are building something from scratch - you first have to decide what you want from the rifle (it is after all only a tool) and how much you have to spend on the whole package - that includes the scope. Talk with your chosen Smith and listen to them. Also talk to different shooters you know, get behind a few different rifles, if you are looking to spend serious money you want to end up with what you want? Bit off subject Re. The ‘fun with a £500 rifle’ and ‘£30k dream rifle’ (had to re-read that after Vince pointed it out), I cannot think of a rifle that fits either end of the spectrum, beginners at local club level are spending around the £1000 +/- on new rifles then adding a scope, I warn them off used unless they really know the history. As to a £30k rifle, I’m struggling to think of £6-7k including a very nice scope, but I’m not much of a dreamer😁 caveat - talking range rifles, you can add £££ for nice wood and bluing in some cases. I’ve found the ‘fun’ bit is more related to where you shoot and who you shoot with IMHO? Concur if you cannot shoot or reload it’s all pretty moot - but you can at least shoot in style? T

Had s look at Steve’s work a good few years back, he even said it was not worth the effort he put in but it was a very nice end product, lots of honing and grinding Bores and OD’s , nickel plating the bolt oversize and grinding back, everything was ‘square and concentric, nickel being a nice bearing matl made for a smooth feel I sometimes wonder though on all this, after all the action only holds the cartridge in the end of the barrel 😉😁😁

Apologies, you are correct, not illegal just against the original NR conditions of Carriage. might be different now though as it’s all broken up into different companies T

Another vote for Miyutoyo, Current Starret items are OK, but when they die will be back to the Mitsys T

Andrew - forgot all about the Lee factory crimp die, used one on my K22 hornet to good effect.

Gruntus, Re. Light weight bullets - you can always add a cannelure (sp?) by using one of these: https://www.buffaloarms.com/bullet-cannelure-tool-4d12000. Which are very easy to set up had one for 22 hornet. Re. Bullets - personally i’d Look at the Lapua bullet make specifically for this round thus: https://www.lapua.com/bullets/d166/ and make sure you have a rubber butt pad 😊 The above ‘assumes’ you are playing with the Tigr version of the SVD? always thought they’d be a fun rifle to play around with. I had a functioning Romac when I lived inn the US that used the same round, worked well with the 174g SMK normally associated with the 303. T

Gosh, I’m like ‘gosh’ at some of these numbers from a 6.5x47, this is 6.5-284 performance! https://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/65x284/ no saying it’s not being done, but ‘gosh’! 😯 Makes my old 37.5g of R15 under 123g Scanars that ran just over 2800fps look very mild. Terry