Catch-22

Personally I like to clean the carbon out of the barrel after each shoot, regardless of round count. The carbon and moisture buildup in the bore will encourage rust. So a couple of patches of a carbon remover (Hoppes 9 or more recently use the CR2 cleaner), then a few dry patches to ensure bore is dry, then one well soaked patch of CorrosionX to protect the bore in storage. This gets wiped out with a dry patch before I go shooting. I don’t worry about the copper until the target tells me to worry about it.

I’d say you already have everything you need. You just need to get out and practice, practice and practice some more, specially reading the wind.

When I was looking at reticles, I couldn’t find a model with the H2CMR to actually look through. A bit of Googling and found lots of positive comments and some very useful photos. Attached is a image I previously saw prior to buying my scope’s. Despite the poor quality upload image, you can see the very fein .2MIL windage marks really help those fine wind calls or measuring for clicks on a target. Personally I think the standard .5MIL hash marks are too coarse. For note, each circle is a 1MIL mil dot. The windage marks are .2MIL. The elevation are 1MIL mil dots with .5MIL hash marks. I like the mil dots being empty as you can see the aiming spot properly. Thickness of the reticle itself is the same as the P4F and isn’t too thick even on x25 mag. Having used the H2CMR reticle for a while now I definitely find it very useful for those fine wind calls. Doesn’t look cluttered to me and helps me adjust my shot very quickly. Anyway, good luck - you won’t be disappointed with a S&B.

And I think therein lies the key, the OP should really get out and not only look and handle a bunch of scope’s but actually try some before dropping his £2k. The perfect solution for one might be less than favourable for another.

Another vote for S&B PMII 5-25x56. So much so I’ve bought 2, both with the H2CMR reticle which I find superior to the older PF4 because the finer .2MIL hash marks make for even more precise wind holds or measurement when dialling corrections. Obviously the glass is amazing but I really love the turret system of the PMII. Personally I still think it’s the most user friendly on the market, specifically when you get into the realm of double turn.

Sadly still looks like Sennybridge ranges, Rogiet, Warminster and Kingsbury are all still closed for us. 😭😭😭

My Lee universal depriming pin was too large to deprime my 6.5x47 brass (small flash hole). I chucked up the depriming pin in my cordless drill and span it round with some fine grit sandpaper dabbed with olive oil in the hands. A few seconds later and it fit fine, depriming no problem.

Reduced price £325

Reduced price £100

Yeah if I was considering a custom 22-250 I’d be looking to shoot the 90gn + bullets with a 1-7” twist. In the 22-250 you could push them to some outstanding speeds, making it an excellent long range gun. If you go 1-14” twist you’ll be limited to light bullets which don’t perform at distance, no matter how hard you try and push them.

Personally I’d contact your FEO and seek their advice. Depending on how good & helpful your local authority are, I think they should come take a look and advise you on what’s best. I really don’t think a garage is suitable (assuming easy road access) because they’re easy to open up. Unless you have an alarm fitted? But surely there should be a room inside the house with solid brick walls for you to attach your cabinet too? Even if you have to install extra long bolts through some plasterboard to get to the brick.

I’ve used an Era-Tac one piece QD mount on my .338NM switch barrel for a few years and it’s great. Build quality and repeatability, even after taking on and off dozens and dozens of times works a champ. Not cheap but would you want to buy cheap stuff if requiring ultimate repeatability? https://www.optics-trade.eu/uk/era-tac-one-piece-mount-34-mm-lever-20-moa.html

A few years ago I had an AIA No4 in 7.62x51. It was a really nice gun and really very accurate. Worked well feeding from all 3x of the M14 20 round box mags. Ive never had a go with the 7.62x39 version though. Are those the No5 Jungle Carbine version? I have no doubt the gun is well made but you’ll need to determine if it feeds those 7.62x39 rounds reliably from the mag. And if it a No5, it may not be the most accurate anyway as jungle carbines never really were imo.

I got the HH holder direct from SPHUR when I ordered a mount from them. Made it more palatable with combined shipping. The version that attaches direct to the mount is very slick.

Bump

Bump

If it works and does the job, then that’s all that matters. Nice!

Thanks @baldie . I too agree that I’ve experienced best results when loading to the ragged edge of the 6.5x47. My plan when I’m able to get out and shoot again is to up the charge a fair bit. But I am also aware that because the 6.5x47 is at the edge, you don’t see pressure signs until very late. @palo What barrel length are you using? Mines a 26” barrel. Also the length of your throat will affect the pressure generated. A reamer that cuts a short throat means the bullet gets seated deeper in the case, reducing case capacity and rising the pressure. Longer throat (and so longer seating) gives more case capacity space and lower velocities. It could be that I’ve got a slow barrel but it’s not got enough rounds down yet. I should see it speed up a bit, and so far it looks on par with other 6.5x47 barrels I’ve had. 38.3gn-38.5gn should get me to 2930fps which has been an accurate node I’ve had before. I’ll try and push it up but obviously conscious it’s at the edge of pressure.

I’d agree with that if you don’t have an adjustable cheekpiece. If you do have an adjustable cheekpiece then this isn’t relevant.

I’ve had Tier One single mount previously and they are nice. But I personally never really liked the narrow central section - I always felt it needed more ‘beef’ there. But machining and finish wise, very nice. Ive since moved on and currently own an Era-Tac single piece QD mount for my big .338 and have had zero discernible shift. I’ve taken the mount on and off dozens of times and never seen a shift in zero, regardless of barrel/calibre used on the gun. On my more recent acquisition, I went with a SPHUR single mount. Again, machining and finish is really top notch. The main thing I like about the SPUHR over the Tier One is both the low profile (it’s narrow on the sides, thus giving a better view of the parallax and windage turrets) and the central saddle is just a bit thicker/beefier. Plus mounting screws/piccatinny ‘bars’ are located along the entire length of the mount, not just under the rings at the front and back. So there’s more engagement on the rail along the entire length of the mount. I think all are excellent quality and you can’t go wrong with any of the choices. I just happen to value the QD and no shift feature of the Era-Tac and the low profile (plus 5 mounting screws) of the SPUHR.

A HUGE thank you to everyone who’ve taken the time and helped out with this survey. You’ve really helped to progress not only the thinking of market opportunities but evolution of the initial concept. Thank you all. 🥇 I’m going to keep the survey open for a while longer, so if you’ve not yet given it a go, can you do so please - I’d be most grateful! With thanks 👍😎

I think the rule is that anything classed .338 cal is a no no. I have a .338 Norma Mag and that’s seemingly a no. If that’s the case, then I can only think anything .338cal, like a .338WM, 33Nosler, .338-06 etc are also all no no. It makes no logical sense what so ever. By their rules even a .338 Federal (308w case necked up to .338cal) is a no no due to ‘safety’ reasons.

This concern was one of the main reasons why I ditched the dry tumbling in favour of US. I would always use nitrile gloves when handling the brass afterwards to remove media stuck in flash hole (use a toothpick) and wipe cases with a cloth to remove fine dust film on outside of case. It was this fine film of dust that I hated floating around. You get it when the machine is running and when opening the lid, but definitely noticeable when wiping cases down afterwards. And it’s not just the leading, it’s all the other noxious chemicals that result from the primer and powder residue becoming fine dust too.

.224 Valk isn’t a .223 bolt face, requires a a slightly larger bolt face (6.8SPC or 6.5 Grendel). Not common in bolt action rifles. Personally id explore a .22-250 but with fast twist and long throat to handle the 90gn + bullets. You can use good Lapua brass and a common .308w bolt face that way.

Not being funny, but adding the items for sale actually within the post title would help people know what it is you’re selling. Just a thought. Good luck with the sale.