Catch-22

Not a .338LM but I have the .338Norma Mag (only 6% less case capacity) and I shoot 300gn Scenars in a 27” Bartlein 1.9-3” twist at 2800fps with 94.5gn RS80. I think RS80 is a lovely powder in these big magnums. I’ve found it to be very clean burning and easy to get loads with SD/ES in single digits. Absolutely zero pressure signs. Id definitely suggest its one for you to try!

I did manage to get to an indoor range to sight in and run the barrel in whilst going through an OCW process. I think I will try a few increments higher as no pressure signs observed at all. I saw ES/SD numbers begin to drop and group size become smaller with less vertical as the charge upped as well. So far I think my 38.1gn load is probably a good place to be, as it’s near the magical 2900fps which was a velocity that worked well in two previous 6.5x47 rifles I’ve had. Seems that velocity produces a good harmonic node perhaps?? The initial groups were not great, mostly my fault as the gun is new to me. I’m more akin to a 2-stage trigger and this single stage is very very light. And I’m also getting used to the vertical grip. The groups at the end I started to get more comfortable. The second to last group is two groups. I kinda lost my aiming spot and so drilled two groups. My fault, not the gun. The last group (38.1gn) had the first 3 all together, I edged the 4th out and brought the 5th back in. Could have been a much better group, again my fault. All charges used 123gn Scenars, KVB-223m primers, VV N140 Powder and seated to 2.115”

A couple more pics. I really dig the ‘Ryan Castle’ mag well cut (named after the shooter who suggested it to MPA). Makes mag changes just a bit easier. The RRS dual picatinny and ARCA QD clamp is really helpful, allowing me to quickly slide down the full rail or switch between the ARCA rail or extended picatinny rail at the front (which btw can be reversed to provide extended ARCA rail). And I do love seeing a nice ‘star’ pattern on the crown. Beautifully faced.

Thanks, yeah it was a thought of mine. Might be ok going Friday morning. Set off around 6am to be on point for the 8.30am hooter. Back early afternoon. The traffic is likely to be getting busy once I hit Bristol & the Severn bridge. But worth it in the grand scheme of things if it means I actually get to go shooting🙄😭 😂 Thanks again! 👍

It’s a good idea...yet something tells me that it’s not been done with ODRC. I’ll ask though. 👍

Balls - that does suck indeed. Ah well, I’ll just bring my other guns down. Nay thanks for the info, super helpful! 👍

Sorry to hijack, but I’m keen to attend Stickledown at Bisley. I understand the HME limit is 7000J, which is less than standard .338LapMag loadings (around 6,500J). But one of the posts above state .338LapMag aren’t permitted. So is that the case, anything up to 7000J is permitted just as long as it’s not a 338? If so, will that rule out my .338 Norma Mag (6% less case capacity than the 338Lap - equates to around 6000J)? Thanks

To the top

To the top

Ah ok, didn’t know that. Obviously I have my affiliate membership via ODRC, so I’ll have to get my own personal membership sorted before I book. I have every other Friday off, so I’d like to take advantage of that and visit Bisley as much as possible. For too long have my beauties languished in the safe. They need to be broken out and given a good shooting!

Ok thanks all, especially Terry for the low down on how the day runs. If I’m honest, I can’t see a shoot happening with ODRC until 2021, so until then I think I’ll have to book some sessions at Bisley. Cheers!

The Offas calendar note that planned Kingsbury A shoots for 27th and 29th Sept and 10th plus 25th Oct have all been cancelled. There are no comments/notes as to why they’ve been cancelled but can only assume it’s COVID related.

You are right about John Macefield, he was a pleasant chap!

Yes, I’ve been mulling a move on from the club. Trouble is being in S Wales, the ranges further north are just too far unless doing overnights. There are plenty of lovely ranges close by but we can never get on them. I’m thinking I need to book some private days in at Bisley, particularly Stickledown. I’ve not been to Bisley before so don’t know the process/procedure, whether you use electronic targets or arrange for a marker (how do you do that even??) etc but will have to check them out online.

Looks like Warminster is off for Thursday 17th. Ive received no notification from the club secretary that it’s been cancelled (nice work there...thanks!) but lucky I checked the website tonight. Apparently due to the COVID restrictions. Best double check with whomever you can before you travel for a no show.

Having used most systems out there; Balance beam, GemPro250, Target Master with Balance beam, Chargemaster Lite and now the FX120-i with Autotrickler & Autothrow, I’ll add my two pennies worth. Balance beam was fairly accurate but very slow and subject to drafts. GemPro250 is very accurate and convenient. You can mitigate drift using a wind guard and line conditioner to keep current stable. But it’s slow to throw and trickle up. Target Master & Balance beam whilst fairly accurate posed the same problems with being slow to settle down. As I don’t have a permanent reloading bench, it was time consuming to setup each time, often taking as much time setting it up as actually time spent on reloading. Chargemaster Lite was a great tool. In my own tests I published here a while back, I found it was exceptionally accurate when you know the quirks (under throw charge, remove pan and settle, replace pan and trickle up) often obtaining accuracy to 0.02gn and no worse than 0.04gn. That’s within 2-4 kernels of N140. When used in above method, I experienced no discernible drift, but did use a line conditioner which helps. However, the process of throwing the charge, removing pan then replacing before trickling up also took too long. It was less time than Beam scale, GemPro or Target Master, but still took too much faffing and time of loading 100-200 rounds in a go...for me anyway. So upgrading to the FX120-i with Autotrickler/Autothrow combo was worth it to me. setting up each time is very quick, though I normally just have the scale on to warm up for at least an hour before loading. The accuracy is incredible as is the repeatability. I often find myself obsessing over a single kernel. I don’t need to but it’s my own OCD. The scale has a conditioner so doesn’t drift much other than when the room gets warm and the metal plate is in the sun. The warmth can drift is a bit...but only about 0.02gn, or two kernels of N140. So nothing major. But for this reason I choose to load on overcast days or do it in the evening. For me, high volume and batch loading, the upgrade to the FX120-i was worth the money. It’s the time I lost in waiting for all the other methods to settle or time taken to setup, was worth the cost outlay. Good luck!

Personally I like bulk buying. I buy my powder in 10kg barrels. It is both cheaper than 1kg tubs and ensures greater consistency as you don’t suffer lot to lot inconsistencies. Same goes with bullets too, which I also bulk buy.

Well that would be great news! Fingers crossed as I’ve got too many .338 rounds I need to chew through! 💥🥳😂

$hit...Offas were due to shoot at Warminster this coming Thursday. We haven’t heard if it’s on or off yet, can only assume it’s now off?!? 😭

Thank you again Roy for the help & advice. We’ll see how the 2 groove shoots, should be fun. Ive got a bunch of front sight blades so will do the 3” low grouping at 25m, swapping out the blades to suit.

Update. Had the headspace checked with my local gunsmith. Rim gauge was fine and chamber length gauge was just about crush on his CIP no-go. Definitely no closing at all on field. So all good and within military standards. I cleaned up the woodwork using the oven cleaner and boiling water method. I followed these steps and it worked well for me; https://www.dummybullet.com/m1 garand stock restoration page 1.html I must say that I was mightily impressed. Excellent results and very easy. I’ve since treated the woodwork with 10 coats of raw boiled linseed oil, following the Fiddes guidelines. I found I didn’t need to do any Feathering as the stock was smooth enough. It’s come out nicely and is much much better than before. No gumminess, just lovely smooth feeling wood. The butt is however rather damaged and pocked, which only showed up when oiling the wood. But I’m happy with it for now...it is after all a battle rifle that’s been in battle. All metal work was thoroughly soaked with degreaser and scrubbed with CorrosionX to protect it from rusting and lubricate it. Ive worked up some test loads with a 174gn PPU bullet over some N140. Cheers for all the help and advice!

Now SOLD

Purpose of the dial is to ensure each primer is seated to exactly the same depth each time in each case. It enhanced the process more than just the ‘feel’ you get through the handle as you note. The 21st Century priming tool I use does the same thing (ensuring a greater level of consistency each prime) by using a 10thou click adjust system. Once you’ve measured your flashole depth and know how deeply you want to seat the primer, you Set primer seating depth using the click system on the tool and all cases will be primed to the same depth. You still get the ‘feel’ through the handle but can be confident in knowing each primer was seated in exactly the same way as each other.

Bump - new reduced price!

Bump - new reduced price