Catch-22

Ditch the Tetra...it’s awful stuff that will increase the likihood of rusting! For rust prevention and storage, look at either CorrosionX or Eezox. Both are excellent and numerous independent tests against many others (incl Tetra) prove the aforementioned are superior. I like CorosionX as its mostly all natural. https://youtu.be/uOB5eCReAQY https://youtu.be/6Ntnd9kkv1M

From memory, the Hornady 68gn is a tad longer and a different shape than the Sierra 69gn SMK. I think it also has a slightly longer bearing surface. Good bullet though - and at the price it’s definitely gonna be my .223AI fireforming load before I step up to the 80g bullets.

I previously had a Savage VLP with 26” tube and 1:9” twist barrel. The traditional SMK 69gn were ok, but I must confess I was very impressed with the Hornady 68gn HPBT. They’re cheap as chips and very good. I can’t remember the exact load but I was using VARGET.

Yes will do saddler. I’ve got some fine steel wool (I’d say 000) so will also get 0000 for the final feathering polish. Cheers 👍🍺

Peterson brass is reportedly very good brass. I haven’t used any myself but I’ve heard good things.

Bump

Bump

Cool, thanks

@Roy W Heres the pic of the left side receiver stock band. Also only stamp I could see on the mag. I believe this is a Savage mag?

Thanks Saddler - very helpful. I’ve read up and seems you can also use Acetone (which I have to hand). Interestingly quite a few use oven cleaner to remove the grease, oil and grime. Then boiling water to remove scratches and dents, plus more oil, before finally rubbing numerous coats of RLO.

Thanks again Roy!

Ah, that’s a shame about the mag and bolt being ‘duped’ and not original to the receiver. Do you think the bolt was renumbered by an Armourer or factory at some point? Not being au fait with Lee Enfields, does this matter much? Sorry I forgot to take the pic of the receiver serial number. I’ll get one up tomorrow. Thanks again!

Thanks Roy - I appreciate the advice! Date on the receiver is 1942. I believe it still has the original parkerising but does appear to have some black lacquer here and there, suggesting that maybe it was coated/painted at some point and then possibly stripped or worn away?? I don’t know why I said Oak, thanks for the correction. Yeah looks a nice colour. Stock does have some bangs and marks but no splits or signs of repair. Thanks for the tip on the woodwork, will try to do that. Yeah I had wondered if I should get the headspace properly checked out. The gauges I have are the proper original MIL spec and according to them they say it corresponds to within Military tolerance. But I think you’re right, best err on the side of caution. Ill get some pics up soon. EDIT- does appear to be proofed, can see Birmingham proof marks on bolt head, receiver and bolt body.

I recently acquired a Longbranch No.4 MkI* and need a bit of advice on things to check and how best to restore some things. So the gun itself seems relatively early production. The receiver, bolt and mag all matching serial number 10L0234. All serials look genuine - not ‘faked’. Bolt has the round cocking piece. I can’t easily read the serial under the forend but I don’t think it matches receiver, bolt and mag. Gun was quite grimey and I’ve given it a part clean in mag, bolt and receiver. I’ve scrubbed a tonne of muck out of the barrel. Lands look ok but I don’t think it’s been cleaned in the last 20yrs. I checked headspace with my Tectal gauges. It will close on a Go gauge, and will only just with a bit of snug pressure on a No-Go gauge (0.068”) suggesting headspace is around 0.067” or 0.068”. It definitely will not accept the Field gauge of 0.074” Bolt head is a No.3. Function check is fine. All screws appear to be there. Nothings loose or split (from what I can see). The woodwork is a dark oak I think. Not sure tbh. I think it’s rather gummy, which I think is poor application of linseed oil. Any thoughts on how easy it is to dismantle the woodwork, clean it up and reassemble? I’ve heard sorting the woodwork can be tricky. Thanks!

I’m sorry, I don’t know. I don’t own an AIAX, so can’t say if the forend is Keymod like the sides are or not. Best you ask Baldie for what he thinks works best. 👍

Personally I think you can easily go 2-3x firings of the brass before you ‘need’ to anneal. It’s really only at that point the brass is beginning to harden to a point that annealing will really help. So if you had 200x pieces of brass and you shoot 100x in an afternoon, then you could get roughly 6 shoots in before you really need an annealer. So not urgent I’d say. But once you have one, it’s easy enough (and probably helpful) to anneal brass each time it’s used. I have one of Lubo’s machines (goes by the name of ‘Raptor Calls’) and it’s great value for money. Just reach out to him via PM and he’s a gent to deal with.

Occasionally. I will also gently press, place, featherly touch, nestle, nudge, push, bump, caress etc.

That’s what I meant. Prevents clamp from sliding. To me that’s extra rigidity in the setup because when you slam your barricade stop against an obstacle, the stop/forend doesn’t then move about. Deepest, most sincere apologies if ‘rigid’ wasn’t the word you were looking for! Would ‘less slidey’ have been better?

If you use the Area419 ARCA clamp, there is a section of the clamp that fits within the ‘toothed’ slots when you clamp down. So it still slides, ARCA as normal when loosened. When tightened, the ‘teeth’ engage, a bit like mini picatinny. The Area419 ARCA rail can be used with other ARCA mounts, thy just won’t engage the ‘teeth’ of the rail ‘tis all.

That looks like an Area419 ARCA rail that’s been cerakoted. It is ‘toothed’ to provide extra rigidity and stop the ARCA mount sliding back and forth too easily. https://www.area419.com/product/arcalock-univ14/

As stated previously, you might need to up the sensitivity. Perhaps a lighter bullet (a .17cal 17gn bullet is small) may be harder to pickup? Alternatively, check the positioning of the bayonet to muzzle. Or change the battery if it’s been in there a while.

SKB iSeries 6018-8. Fully waterproof/airline approved mil spec case (alternative to Peli). I used it to bring over my IMPACT/MPA gun, clutch of barrels and various other goodies. Has 3 layers of foam and nothing’s been cut. The impressions in the foam are from the gun and stuff being transported. Should fade over time. Case has only been used for transportation from the US, never been on the range or elsewhere. Unfortunately there’s the plastic wrap from customs papers on the lid which isn’t coming off without being scraped off...which I didn’t want to do. Otherwise case is perfect. This is a very BIG case! Dimensions approx; L = 152cm W = 45.5cm D = 20.3cm REDUCED to £325 - big saving over the $580 I paid (minus import and VAT). Collection only please.

SKB iSeries 5014. Fully waterproof/airline approved mil spec case (alternative to Peli). I used it for my Defiance/Eliseo tube gun with spare barrel, scope, moderator, bipod and mags. Only the middle 50mm foam has been cut, but the 50mm foam below hasn’t been touched. Case has only had light use, in and out of the car too and from the range. Dimensions approx; L = 128cm W = 38cm D = 15cm ONLY £100! Collection only please.

Highwood Classic Arms have had 1903A1’s for sale in the past. Might be worth giving them a call to see if they’re able to source one for you...or contact the previous buyers to see if they might consider parting with theirs? http://www.highwoodclassicarms.co.uk/classicmilitaryrifles.htm

The RAT is a great bit of kit 👍 Alternatively you could look at RRS ARCA to Picatinny QD mount. I use these on the bottom of an ARCA rail to connect my Tier One EvO Tac pod. RRS QD ARCA mount: https://soar.reallyrightstuff.com/SC-LR RRS picatinny rail to ARCA QD mount: https://soar.reallyrightstuff.com/CA-R-50