Catch-22

Still for sale.

I too have a Rossi .44mag under leaver. I think they’re brilliant guns, so much fun and I’ve found very unfussy - it’ll feed and eat anything with ease. I have no doubt it’ll be a great, fun gun for someone. Good luck with the sale! 👍

Thanks for the knowledge!

SOLD! Many thanks.

Cool, no probs. PM inbound.

Accuracy International 2-port muzzle brake. Thread is the standard M18x1.5. It’s come off an AWM .300wm, so I assume it’s 30cal, not .338cal. The gun was virtually unused, so brake is as new. £100 delivered to U.K. address. Cheers

Yeah, absolutely. Because I don’t have the space for a permanent reloading setup, getting everything set up and packed away afterwards takes time. Anything to save time making rounds is helpful. I find Trying to do everything in one session makes me want to rush, and I have made mistakes in the past as a result. So batching operations is best for me!

As has been said already, there is no issue with priming brass ahead of time. They don’t degrade. I personally love to prime ahead of time, I do it with all my brass. I buy primers in big bulk and I’ll prime a quantity of brass if there’s something particularly slow on tv. It reduces the time spent loading actual rounds, which is helpful for me.

I went with 26” long, 1-7” twist barrels for my .223AI switch barrel gun. A 1-7” will let you handle anything up to 88gn without issue.

New Year bump 🥳🥂

New Year bump 🥳🥂

MK Machining. Shipping from the US was fine. I’ve got one that I use with my Magneto Sporter. Works great. Just make sure you get the right adaptor if you have a Sporter or V3. https://www.mkmachining.com/product-category/chronographs/magnetospeed/

If you’ve got a picatinny rail on your forend, Get the MK mount and you can!

Yeah I too use a magneto & MK Mount. So easy to use, unlike the Lab so I’ve heard.

Why not get a Magnetospeed? The accuracy and repeatability is almost on par with the Labradar according to Litz. Super easy to use and won’t affect barrel harmonics when used with the MK picatinny mount.

I think this is brilliant!! I had found all the bits per the video on EBay and kept it in my basket for the last couple of days. Interestingly the price of these induction heaters has drastically risen, about £100 more expensive overnight. Must be following this thread, a few peeps have bought one and now the sellers are upping the price, seeing there’s a sudden market need for them. Ill wait for the price to go back down again and then I’ll buy one. Thanks for sharing the video and idea!

May sound like a stupid question, but is your Redding Type S a bushing F/L die? If so, do you have the right sized bushing insert in there to size the neck down properly?

Simples really. Take your bolt out, remove the firing pin/striker and remove the ejector too. It’s fine to keep the extractor claw. Screw your F/L die into your press until it contacts your shell holder. Now back the die out a couple of turns, so it won’t fully size all of the case back down to SAMMI spec as that’s too much. Now insert your bolt (minus the firing pin/striker and ejector you removed) and the handle should just flop down without any resistance. Take a piece of fired brass, lube it, place in press and size it. Remove brass, wipe lube off and place brass into your rifle’s chamber and gently close the bolt. If the bolt doesn’t fully close, or it closes with some force/resistance, the brass needs to be sized down further. Extract brass, lube and place in press. Turn die DOWN (so sizing the brass more) just a tad (0.01 or 0.02). Size the brass again. Now try it again in your chamber. Repeat just until your bolt will flop down like it did with no brass. This tell you that you’ve bumped your shoulder back just enough so the brass has minimal clearance but is guaranteed to chamber freely so you don’t get chambering issues. It’s also been sized just a minimal amount, no where near SAMMI spec. Use your calipers and Hornady headspace gauge to record the optimum headspace bump value. Ive found this to be the most accurate way of measuring my chamber headspace and minimum case bump required. There was an excellent and simple vid from Aron Wheeler (gunsmith) showing it all but I cannot find it on YouTube sadly.

Father Christmas came early this year. One of the few AWM’s made in that special run of 2016, in .300wm. Making some test loads using 190gn and 200gn Wimbledon bullets from MME and some 208gn ELDM. Currently wearing an excellent Area419 Sidewinder brake but may buy the AI tactical brake and a moddy. Cannot wait to get to a range.

The rifle pictured isn’t mine, nor do I have any affiliation with the seller, but I once had the same Manners GAT stock on a Tikka 595 of mine and it was one of the most comfy stocks I’ve shot. The thumb hole & grip is lovely. Good luck with your sale!

THIS ^^ I too also use the Sinclair Expander Die & Mandrels. I remove the expander button from my full length dies because they overwork the brass and rip the neck out of shape. Think about the brass going up into the die; on the upward stroke of your press, the expander button is pushed through the neck, opening it. The die then shrinks (sizes) the neck down. Then on the downward stroke of the press the expander button is pulled through the neck, opening it up again. With an expander mandrel and die you’re only pushing the mandrel through the neck once, producing a very minimum size (giving normally around 0.02” neck tension). Therefore the expander mandrel works the neck less and gives a more precise (and minimum) neck tension.

I’ve always found the VLDs do exceptionally well when jumping them a huge amount...like Grand Canyon sized jump. I think lots of people get issues or call them finicky because they try and seat them near the lands. VLDs have a very small bearing surface, much shorter than most bullets, so seating long (to reach the lands) means there’s less bearing surface in the case neck...so poor alignment with the bore. Jump them and they shine.

Bump

I would concur with the post above ☝️ I got one of those annealers from Lubo a few years ago and it’s great. It just works! I have .308w and .338L discs and I anneal .223ai, 6.5x47, .303, 30-06, .300wm and .338Norma Mag without issue. I like to do a bulk batch and it’s very quick and efficient.

Not limited to checking a rifles bore, I see it’s also helpful for safe cracking! 💰🔓