Mattnall

You might.

Call it a rifled steel tube and there's no problem. Or buy from one of the UK or EU manufacturers.

This is how you'd think it should be. However, the police asked to design the application forms way back and put down 'Calibre' when they meant 'Cartridge Size'. For a while some got away with putting '.30cal' and having the luxury of deciding upon what .30cal chambering they would like when in the shop. I've done this and so have a few others, and I believe there is case law which supports this. Finally the powers that be finally realised they had messed up on the forms and that is why the new guidance states that a broad calibre choice on the authority to acquire should be avoided whenever possible and specific cartridge sizes used instead.

1:12" + would really seem to suggest you stick with 55gn bullets as a max weight. You might be able to get a heavier bullet to stabilise but there are plenty of good 55gn offerings out there. SMKs are a very forgiving bullet and don't seem to mind a bit of jump, you could do worse than try buy a 100 box of them and play with loads using these. I have heard good things about the PPU match bullets but I haven't tried them yet, their 55gn FMJ are OK for the price, but 1" or more at 100yds and they become ETR fodder. I have just got some of their 75gn Match to play with - a New Year's treat, loading and testing these.

Some Sierra .224 bullets come in boxes of 50. However if you are constantly changing the bullet/powder/load combination you'll want to shoot a good few of each new combination through the barrel before you do any testing like groups or speed. You might want to decide what make/weight of bullet you want and buy a 100 and then play with a selected powder and vary charge to see if that works, if not change the powder and you might have half the box of bullets left to try the same development with the next powder. You might even use a full box of 100 bullets on one powder choice if you vary the charge in smaller increments.

You aren't allowed to let off fireworks anywhere you want, there are also age restrictions and nuisance laws. Replace 'firearm' with 'air rifle' then, see how that now works. However my point was not about the law but about the rash generalisations and the wanting to ban something that was not to your liking. What if it was TR guys saying there is no need for self loaders, or the hunters seeing no need for target shooting (or god forbid the tactical training thinly disguised as PLR or CSR), and having it all banned because one person goes crazy and breaks the law. Don't ban the thing for the actions of the individual, apply the law and ban the individual.

Swap the word 'firework' with 'rifle' and then it gets closer to home. Banning something because you don't like it is short sighted and narrow minded. Are you saying the firework is to blame? Like saying the gun is to blame for all the gang shootings or knives are the problem when it comes to stabbings. Now banning the person(s) being antisocial or dangerous is another kettle of fish.

We like to eat and she can't (more likely, won't) cook. Besides I'm in the house before she is most nights, it's tough being a kept man and a work from home husband.

The acid should be neutralised by the hard water. I just rinse in softened water to remove the dirty water and lay on shop-towel on a tray and remove any excess water. Then in the oven on its lowest setting for about 30 minutes (or after cooking a roast as the oven cools) and they're pretty much dry. As I do all the cooking the wife never needs to know 😏

If I've got this correct you only want to shoot fox and the occasional deer. In that case I'd probably go either 6mm (.243) or most likely 6.5mm (I have a .260 which I love but other cartridges are available). Any quarry smaller than a fox; take a shotgun, anything bigger than a fallow - well, if the 6.5 can't knock it over leave it be.

The problem with 10-22s is the abundance of parts, add-ons, etc. You buy a good 22LR semi for a few hundred pound, and spend £1000s on all the gucci parts and in the end you still only have a 22LR semi. They will never be the precision rifle of a 22LR bolt gun or martini but they can be great shooters nonetheless. It just depends upon how much you want to spend to have the same rifle.

Nope, they all seem pretty much the same once the barrel is floated and with a decent trigger. Some like the heavier barrelled versions and it might help with steadying the rifle but if you are carrying it around the fields (and this is a Varminting forum after all) that weight won't help much.

Cleaning is one of those things that will work if you think it does. If you are constantly worrying about whether you used the right regime or not when you should be worrying about sight picture and the other marksmanship principles it will impact your shooting. If the bore is too clean the first shot won't go where the last shot did so then you'll need fouling shot(s). I've not seen a .30cal barrel become a .20cal through not cleaning but I have seen a sub-MOA group become a super-MOA group through bad cleaning. The action and outside of the firearm, that's a different matter.

1/2" thread is usually cut on a slightly smaller diameter, this seems a bit large. According to my book of words the major diameters should be max 0.4987- min 0.4906 for a class 2A and max 0.5000 - min 04919 for 3A. That couple of thou oversize seemed to be the problem

Short and fat, just how I like 'em. 😍

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What's this running everyone seems to be doing with their rifles just lately? And I know it's not CSR they've entered.

.303 is not headspaced off the shoulder so measuring and comparing the head to shoulder length with cases from different rifles is not comparing headspace.

I have been lead to believe this is because the traces for larger calibre cartridges are not up to date or have never been completed in the first place. As soon as the MoD complete traces for the larger cartridges (calibres?) this restriction should be removed. However I wonder if the traces for a .338LM (which I guess they'll want to draw up as it is in use by the forces) will cover other calibres larger than 7.62. Would a 300WM act in a similar way to .338? Or .50cal? If the trace cannot be guaranteed to cover all calibres likely to be used then I doubt those calibres/cartridges will be allowed on those ranges.

From those pics I would say no, not over pressured, the primer is still rounded at the corners and there is no cratering at the pin dent and no bolt face marks. Compare to the bottom right (full pressure?); the primer fills the pocket more and the pin dent is shallower as the pressure is greater and there is some slight scraping by the N where it looks to have scraped on the bolt face. Others may no more or better but this is just my opinion based on the evidence presented.

Is the No5 still available? BTW I think that's a SMLE MkIII not a No3.

I am so glad no one on this thread has called them verniers. 😁

I have found 77SMks no good at 1000yds and the 80SMKs I could only just keep supersonic (with 45mins of drop from a 200 zero - little left to play with on my scope especially if I needed to add any wind). I haven't tried them at 900 but the next longest distance I've shot them is 600 and then even the 77SMKs are great. I switched to 80JLKs and the elevation adjustment came down to 38mins and the group size could comfortably keep a Fig11 if I was playing nice (this was in the days of the 1000yd snaps in the PR nationals, 4x Fig11s on the backer). Haven't shot them at 1000 for a while now, prefer to use the 6.5 instead.

I also use Lanolin and isopropyl alcohol . It works, is cheap and smells nice.

I've always shot left handed except a brief stint with the L85 and L86 and have always tried to own a left handed version of what I want to shoot. I hunt with a LH Sako and Rem700 and have LH auto shotgun and Ruger Scout. Otherwise I use lever actions and AR style rifles which don't really make a difference which hand they are used from. I do own a couple of Enfields, (a Rifle,No1 and Rifle,No2) which I shoot LH and have to operate the bolt by leaning over the receiver with the left hand (the right often being 'slung in'). This works but is not the best way, when I had a No4 I found if I wasn't careful I would add a touch of wind as I operated the bolt. The only time I have found shoot a RH rifle beneficial was when the rifle was rested and I didn't have to use the right hand to hold the weight of the rifle (ie not making the left hand do all the carrying when the right is operating the bolt). When I see shooters trying this the muzzle often waves all over the place, a loaded round is going in the chamber and the finger is near the trigger.