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Hmm... I would remove the scope and try the mounts butted up together on the same bit of rail, just to reassure yourself they are a matched pair. Any discrepancy, the higher one need to go at the rear.

I would think the question is - why are you running out of elevation at 100yds? Your scope has about 40moa of adjustment and you are still 3moa short. I really don't think you would have a problem with the Tier One mounts and the Sightron scope should be trouble free which doesn't leave much. Have you shot the rifle with it's aperture sights at 100 yards? - if you have enough elevation there it rules out a droopy barrel . That really only leaves how the rings are mounted to the receiver. Although the Annie has an 11mm dovetail, does it have a rounded top? If so, is the top of the rail touching the base of the ring preventing it from fully engaging in the dovetail slots? Does the base of the ring have some sort of locating stud protruding?

Show us a photo of a misfired case - The collective mind might deduce a light strike or mis-shaped firing pin. I've no experience with the Quad but do have a P94S Finnfire, the bolts look the same and I had the same problem a couple of years ago. I looked in to getting a new spring, they are available and come complete with a firing pin, however I machined a short spacer to preload the existing spring and been working perfectly since. I also made a tool to aid the bolt disassembly and de-cocking/re-cocking.

Ahh yes, the "cake pan" machine is a well tried and tested home annealer now. As far as I know the originator of this idea, 7 years ago, although seldom given credit, was "MrLongrange" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msgcZyYeTqM This idea was quickly taken up by a chap from Australia "Skippy" who greatly improved the machine, adding a second motor and feed hopper. After several stages of improvement, Skippy's machine came to be known as Black Betty. Skippy published the plans and a material list, consequently many Black Betty's were produced in home workshops round the world. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-C-i0Kr2jU Although Black Bettie worked very well, there was a small problem, the two separate motors, with two speed controllers failed to stay in sync and would occasionally feed two cases. This problem was overcome by a chap in the USA "Mozella" who added a proximity detector to the circuit. Help With Your Experience with Annealing Machine | Shooters' Forum (accurateshooter.com) Although there have been a few frills added over the last 7 years, as far as I know, there have not been any significant improvements - The machine, in it's final form, seems to work really well.

Just my opinion, but they look a little over cooked to me. How did you arrive at that result? Just guess, Tempilaq liquid or stick, soap, case colour, flame colour? How about a picture of your machine? Propane or MAP?

I guess everyone is aware of this service that is available for medical report. Medical reports for UK firearms and shotgun certificates (firearmsmedicalreports.co.uk)

The Gun Control Network and other anti-gun campaigners, including many ill-informed politicians will be more than happy to see the cost of any amount of additional resources deemed necessary heaped directly on the shooters. Another X hundred pounds on the cost of an application/renewal will see another tranche of shooters lost. (My local medical practice already requires £80 to tick the medical forms)

If you're somewhere with a wifi signal you could "Zoom/Skype" yourself with two devices - Distance no object then - In fact you could do it as a meeting and we could all watch you shoot.

Just to note, as I guess you all know - the group sizes on the Eley test batches are measured "outside to outside" not C to C as we do in centrefire.

Bloop tubes have been used in competition for around 20 years - The main reason they are used is to increase the sight radius when shooting with iron sights. However, it's also claimed to improve accuracy. The idea of the "still air" theory seems valid but there's also a school of thought that they should be tuned in length - much as you would when tuning a two-stroke racing motorcycle. I think there may be mileage in designing some sort of "air stripper" as is becoming quite common on match grade air rifles. Searching for extreme accuracy with the humble .22lr certainly seems more an art than a science.

As with most things rimfire there seems to be several often conflicting opinions. According to the legendary benchrest rifle builder Bill Calfee - longer is better, but when cutting the barrel the muzzle must be at the tightest part of the bore, even if it means reduced length. Mr Anschutz say his barrels should never be chopped from the muzzle end. On the other hand - good quality target pistols can shoot very tight groups with only 4-5" of barrel. I don't think there would be much difference either way between the 16" or 20" with the T1X, a good 16" will outshoot an average 20" and vice versa.

You might find these two short videos interesting - These tuners are now becoming quite common among the top level smallbore shooters. This is a consecutive series of 4 targets shot at 50m (Note: Open sight, sling supported) Not my targets I hasten to add, I hope David Phelps won't mind me using the photo as a example of what we are trying to achieve.

Delrin or Acetal maybe. I use Acetal rod up to 2.5" but no sheet. Acetal and Delrin machine well but not so good if trying to sand to size. This is where I get my plastic from although not sure about small quantities - could always ask for an off cut sample. Acetal Sheet (POM-C) | Plastic Stockist

I can now supply a dedicated camera bracket and sensor for the 10/10 scale, it just replaces the standard sensor:

Before pressing the button for the M1000 I would certainly have a good look at the 10/10. 1. Take a torch and shine down the damper slot to see if any minute hairs of wire wool or particles are sticking there and touching the damper plate. 2. Remove the beam and check that the screw that holds the damper plate in position is secure. 3. Check the knife edges under a high power glass, looking for a dull or burred edge and check the knife edge tips for chips. 4. Remove the bearing plates and remove the bearings (The inner one is a bit tricky) Make sure there are no odd kernels of powder, paint clumps, manufacturing swarf stuck in the bearing housing. Scrub the bearings and bearing housings out with a toothbrush and some non-residue spirit/alcohol. 5. Scrub the little knife edge where the pan hanger stirrup hangs and make sure the stirrup is free to swing in it's housing. 6.Check, on the main poise, the screw is tight that holds the little washer that locates in the beam notches. 7. While you have the toothbrush out, scrub crossways across the beam notches to clear any dust build-up. Personally I can't recall the last time I needed to way anything over 500 grains on a beam scale - a cheap digital is more convenient for weighing bullets/cases.

The RCBS M500 and M1000 replaced the RCBS 505 and 10/10 3-4 years ago. They use exactly the same knife edge/floating agate bearings as previous RCBS scales. (502,505,5-10, 10/10) and are just as accurate. The differences are in the poise systems - some prefer the rotary barrel poise of the 10/10 and older 5-10, others like the sliding weights of the 502, 505. After a lot of use the threads in the barrel poise on the 5-10 and 10/10 can become worn and "unfixable". The 505 three poise scale adds in an extra poise that can also be a source of inaccuracy too. Both the M500 and M100 suffer from the same problem. The beams are printed on both sides for left/right operation and, as a consequence the zero plate is around 6mm away from the beam which can lead to parallax error unless the scale is viewed from exactly the same position every time. The advantage of the M1000 over the M500 is, the base is a little more robust and it can weigh to 1000 grains. The chances of finding a good RCBS 10/10 are getting slimmer. They were dropped from the RCBS catalogue around 4-5 years ago and for about 8 -10 years prior to that were either made in China or Mexico with fairly hit or miss quality. All the scales have "Made by Ohaus, USA" cast in the base even if made in China, the only way to tell is that the place of manufacture is printed on the original cardboard box. Here's my M500 in action:

I'll second the Whitetail Classic 1.5-5 x 20 suggestion - I have one on my Winchester 94AE .357.

.02 is around a single kernel of Varget - This is enough to reliably and consistently register on a good beam scale. The problem is, under normal conditions the small movement is difficult to see. With a cheap USB camera added to the scale seeing these small movements is much easier. This is a bottom of the range current RCBS basic scale:

Sportsman gun centre, Spud and others will have them - around £100-120 per hundred. I think I have loaded my Lapua 6mmbr 22 times now with moderate loads and beginning to get a bit tired.

I think starting with 6mmbr makes sense - There seems to be very little factory 6br about and certainly none at bargain prices - There are often good deals and plenty of choice for factory rounds on things like .308 etc. The 6mmbr is easy and economical to load with plenty of available bullet/powder choice, although I wouldn't go into reloading premium rifle ammunition and expect to save a great deal of money. A Reloading manual, a solid single stage press, a set of dies and reasonable beam scale will be your initial main outlay, along with powder, primers and bullets. There are odds and ends you will also need for case preparation/measuring etc. It's all a balance and depends on you outlook. A Lee case length trimmer costing £15 will work just as well as a £200 one from Redding, just not as quick or convenient.

I had a nice S&W Mod 14 K-38Target Masterpiece, .38 spec. Single action only. Fitted with Bowler grips for UIT centrefire competitions.

I use unique with the same 158gn bullet in my .357 muzzle loader too - This is 20yds, off a sandbag with open sights: (and 70+ old eyes. )

I'm using 4.5 Unique with a 158gn (unsized) soft cast flat top round nosed bullet in .357 cases for my Winchester 94AE. A nice soft load at around 1,030 and good accuracy for 25 yd gallery.

I think I might have a two or three CZ single shot adapters left from a short run I made a couple of years ago.

Far from humane I would think unless very short range. They are only just over half the weight of an ordinary pellet and with normal air riles <12ftlb they must lose velocity very quickly.