Richiew

Sporting services also do an alloy dummy magazine.

Thanks 1066 , Much appreciated you finding the video explaining the process. Think there were a few tiny boxes of ready made brass bushings in the set too . So when clocks wore the old bushings out they would be easy to press in new correct sized ones. Brass bushings with mild steel shafts occasionally lubed with clock oil from purpose made tools just for oiling, these were long steel rods about 0.5mm by 2” long held in a jewellers screw driver type handle . Made to only put on a small amount of oil into all the nooks and crannies. cheers

This might be bought as a kit as my dads gear is in exactly the same little tubes. He had it set out on individual shadow boards that all fit together wrapped in a chamois leather. Magnifying eye pieces special tweezers and tools and hand collet s to hold and spin the drill s with ie drill by hand without a hand drill . mill try to find it and send a pic

Got some just like them in my dads old box of watch repair tools . As above drills etc for setting ruby bearings

Glad you’re sorted and enjoying your new purchase, sounds like a good setup there and it’ll definitely suit 53 grainers. The hmr makes quite a crack so maybe not a good idea if close to houses but the 22 lr with subsonic ammo should be ideal . Something with a 16” barrel and moderator can be very effective out to 100 yards . Think I’ve mentioned ricochet s before and had one last night even shooting downwards into soft ground off the primos sticks ( 223 75 g eldms) got a bang thump then a whine . God knows where it went . Enjoy

Bottom right hand icon with an arc to the target with an up/ down arrow on it

Hi there you can tune StrelokPro by changing the actual drop for a known distance against the predicted drop and it’ll give a correction regarding speed. Speed from box is mostly overrated. sounds like 22 lr is the go to option

How’s that

Hi there glad your turning to the dark side !!! . 22 lr are around 100 ftlbs so quite a jump up in performance. I’m easily happy upto 100 yards using StrelokPro and subsonic ammo , Hope lead ban doesn’t mess things up though. 17 hmr gives 150 ftlbs at same distance that 22 lr makes 100 ftlb. Also can get non toxic ammo if the antis get their way. subs are very quiet especially rws make . As for ricocheting ammo all ammo will do this in the right conditions but good solid backstop s and shooting downwards from shooting sticks will help reduce them . On grassy sheep fields it’s good to shoot after a rainfall so the ground soaks up the energy and won’t ricochet . I’m using a springer for garden work so not to use up valuable air from my dive cylinder’s ( also out of date but still got good pressure in them) . My 223 gets used primarily for fox but will also be used on close rabbits if they pop out. Hope this helps Ps FX using heavy slugs could be an option but not sure how hard it is to pump up a tank from a manual hand pump .

Hi there In the present climate and with shortages I’d just use whatever makes the rounds go bang . I’ve had good results with Fiocchi and murom , not necessarily flavour of the month but work very well. Bonus getting hold of a thousand. Nice one have fun

Your 1:11” should be ok for the heavies . Berger 185s juggernaut are very good at 44.5 grain of N150 give 2660fps so might be worth a try for the 1000 yards in your barrel. All the above bullets are well made and will stay stable to the target . Good luck

My AI AT didn’t like the lapua designs being a 1:12” twist . The only difference was the L design has a better point part similar to a normal bullet being put through a pointing die . 155 Amax , 155.5 Berger were the best options. Could nt get them over the high 2800s . At eskdalemuir my 308 ran out of steam at 900 yards , no problem with hits upto this distance but 1000 and 1014 targets were either hits or over the top or under the target. 26” barrel though so you might be ok with your longer barrel .

N150 from web site is 39-46 grain s . Also taking that my load for a 175 grain bullet is 44.5 g of n150 so your lighter bullets can take a bit more and there’s more space in the case ?? . Start about 43 and work up in 0.5s to get something in the high 2800 fps with good accuracy. N550 quotes max 50.2 g for top end 2900-3000 fps , depending on how much wil fit in the case . As before start a bit lower and work up . cheers

Could try the WR mags which allow a much longer coal before jumping to a chassis.

Think the price is for a box of ten so £122 each plus vat . A nice chunk of neoprene rubber on the cheek rest works wonders just need to readjust it a bit . 3mm thick is enough or I have used soft leather from an old sofa before. Now onto a WIEBAD product for the AI . Hoptic pads were rubbish in my opinion.

Well done there, can’t complain with that . Might try that on my next set . I’m using up some 73 Berger s that do easy 1/2 moa until I was told to zero the callipers with a bullet then measure the group diameter to get proper size etc . Anyway happy hunting cheers

Think my peltors are the sport model electronic ones . There is another model with bigger ear cups which give 35db protection https://www.arco.co.uk/Web-Taxonomy/Personal-Protective-Equipment/Ear-Plugs-%26-Ear-Defenders/Ear-Defenders/3M-PELTOR-ProTac-Shooter-Overhead-Ear-Defenders/p/PIMM00000000027335 there’s usually an arco shop somewhere nearby that you can try stuff on to make sure it fits and doesn’t mess up with the cheekrest

Ringing in my ears/ tinnitus is constant and classed as industrial deafness after 40 years in industry. Can’t hear the washing machine ping but can hear the central heating boiler fire up at 6:30 from upstairs. Recently went over from peltor electronic defenders to CENS in ear devices and they’re great for out in the field but at the range they’re too loud next to brakes etc even on range settings so have gone back to the peltors for the range and add a pair of the little Xmas tree looking plugs as and when needed. Anyone remember the little white dot and the whine on the tv at close down- same as tinnitus!!! . Once you have it that’s it . Buy the best protection, peltor do a model with 3 dots signifying max sound reduction that we wear on the turbine floor/ compressor deck. Arco sell them. cheers

Yep used this too but very little copper comes out after the kg carbon liquids been used first . Just using the carbon cleaner mostly nowadays.

Might be worth looking at the newer non brass type rods and jag’s which won’t show false blue ie copper coming off the brass parts . Fully agree with big al in pro shot 30 cal brushes as they are very loose compared to the equivalent Parker hale ones . What about nylon brushes??

Another recommendation for pro-shot products. You’ll need calibre specific jags brushes and patches . Tipton and Dewey do good rods too . KG product s or shooters choice solvents work well for me. Try spud 1967 , or Hannams .

Hi all I try to clean after every shoot . I once found the 308 rifle shooting spot on and was at another venue the next day so didn’t clean and found it all over the place on the day . The 223 / 22lr and hmr get cleaned every 200 rounds or so . After each shoot I’ll do a pull through just to clean out any powder residue and also clean the moderator to make sure the hole up the middle isn’t blocked by powder residue . Some rifles need a clean every session others need it as and when the accuracy falls off. Clean as often as possible and there’s no problem. Enjoy

Hi all Just some info that might be useful. Usual cleaning of barrel with initial patches then the brush etc , always find first few push through with the brush are quite a tight fit . So did the initial patches with oil vp90 then the brush also coated with the oil and found thing’s much easier. Then follow the instructions from the AI manual. AI tactical moderator muzzle brake chamber cleaned with a few drops of kg carbon remover, roll the mod to coat all of the inside then keep turning until carbon loosens up , you’ll see the liquid turn blue ish so you’ll know it’s working. A small terminal screwdriver helps to remove any debris in the o-ring channel after the o-ring has been removed. Repeat till you’re satisfied with the result. Grease up oring and replace. Job done

Tri torq or Q torq wrenches at Cromwell tools are standard gear for the chemical industry always good quality.