gruntus

hmmmm, having problems trying to source Sodium NItrite. APC appears to sell the Sodium Nitrate and Pottasium NItrate ok. Any pointers of where to try and obtain the Sodium Nitrite? All the best G

Thanks PopsB, 🙂 👍 That's definitely been my experience. I am using a DIY setup with Tempilaq and the Gas torch method isn't 100% rinse repeat enough in my view. I spend an embarrassing amount of time prepping brass and not being able to anneal consistently like the salt bath doesnt do it justice. Think I will need to revisit the Salt annealing thread now and start pulling together a kit list for building one. I certainly plan on doing the salt bath annealing outside, under cover, no rain and with all the PPE. Hopefully, the neighbours don't think I'm into some kind of sort of foundry fetish!!! 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks again. G

I dip my necks in graphite before bullet seating as I tumble brass and I've heard of the "cold welding" being a reality. I have some HBN sitting on the shelf for testing at some point in the future but just as I was going to go on the journey VarmLR gave me some really sound advice and guidance for brass prep and consistency (which I'm grateful for and what makes this forum such a good place for sharing knowledge). From what I have read on HBN it is definitely worth exploring for consistency of velocity. @PopsB - Pops wrt salt bath annealing how have you found the salt annealing as a process versus gas torch annealing? I was very interested previously but got a bit "windy" with the temperatures involved and the potential consequences. * I pictured myself dressed in gauntlets, leather apron and full face mask like a foundry worker to be safe enough! 🙄🙂 I certainly see the benefit of very consistent temperatures and repeatability over gas torch however and the DIY option here on the forum looked really reasonable for the cost involved. Your thoughts and experiences respectfully requested! 🙂 All the best G

This link is also worth a a watch. For me I think (?) I just want repeatability and consistency mostly to get a really predictable velocity and it's subsequent reliable vertical placement down range. As far as reloading progression this is probably just the next step for me (personally) following consistent brass, annealing and powder weighing. I have a forster press which has masses of leverage but not really ideal for the feel or measuring of bullet seating (but Is often noticable). By using an Arbor press and a gauge if I can spot an anomolous bullet it will allow me to cull or put aside as clearly there is some form of difference in neck tension and I am keen to observe with this form of measurement if my current annealing process is good enough!!! 😉 I certainly can't justify an AMP! I will test and observe the k&m mechanical function and also the targestmaster measuring as well. It will of course take some time but that appears to be the name of the game when it comes to men in shed reloading. 🙂 All of this is just another rabbit hole do go down of course and the real mantra should just be " go out and shoot"!!!🤣🤣🤣

I hope to use it over the next 4 weeks. Will feed back once I'm familiar with it. G

Hi Pops, Targestmaster does these. G

A lot of helpful information here: https://www.longrangeonly.com/forum/threads/hbn-bore-treatment.1796/ And some infomrational videos from Broz here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yoinNhCqHg&t=567s

😁 Guilty as charged.

Hi Pops, If it's of any help, I add alcohol (not the drinking kind, that would be a waste) to the demin water as recommended by a fellow "time wasting, tail-chasing traveller". It helps with the miniscus. With regard to plugging the rear end (ooooh matron), a piece of blue-tac can be used (weighed to 2 x grains) as well. Similarly with bubbles how can you ever determine if the flash hole has air or water in it or a variance in between? How was the bacon sandwich? ATB G

Most important question. Where are you measuring and with what? Typically you should be using a comparator to measure off the ogive on the bullet and the base of the case. If your measuring the tip of the meplat and base of the case these will most definitely give you varying sizes!!! All the best G

+1 for inspection and also if your a "clean freak" for checking your cleaning regime it can be a useful tool. It can, however, be one more thing to make you chase your tail and start worrying (unnecessarily?) when you see some pitting, coppering or throat erosion. If you have a look up my old SMLE you could wonder how the bullet even makes it to the target! 😆 How you correlate these things to actual evidence on paper? I'm not quite sure. G

Hi, A question for the gun Smith's. I have a Macmillan stock that I want to fit a removable cheek Piece to (it's a non adjustable stock) so that I can clean the rifle unimpeded and I also want to steer clear of the velcro add on type. I want to be able to simply fit the cheek peice and remove it and thought that using a couple of threaded press inserts would allow me to screw on / off something like the the titan cheek rest. https://www.brownells.co.uk/epages/UK.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=4428074 Could you provide some advice on the best type of insert to use (threaded or press installation) and if you use epoxy as well? I'm fairly handy and obviously don't want to make a dog's breakfast of it hence the question to start with. All the best and thanks in advance. G

Ah ok, I'm FCSA. Thanks Pops. G

I'm meant to be there next week and I haven't received any info, is there anything I need to be aware of? (you can PM me if its sensitive). All the best G

Ronzi, do you do all five shots of each load and then on to the next set? A few people (myself included) start at the lowest load on target 1 then next increment on Target 2 all the way up until you reach the highest load and then come back down accordingly and repeat until finished. The net effect is that you place all your shots (e.g. 90.5 grains load) on target 1 and (e.g 91 grains load) on target 2 (hope that makes sense?). This method distributes any temp variation. In addition to this waiting a minute between each shot allows yourself and the rifle to settle in to the groove and get good form for shooting. It does take a while though! All the best G

Hi, I have witnessed this behaviour on a couple of rifles (a P14 and my own 308), typically it should settle down within 20 rounds. Please let us know if things settle down and after how many rounds. Interestingly if you follow Mark and Sam after work, he only typically removes the carbon and patches through with some oil. Never copper defouls. HTH G

At least it will provide more ventilation, 🙂a number of people have felt ill (myself included) with the amount of fumes blown back into the area from the muzzle brakes of the larger calibres. Its sometimes like a scene from Apocalypse Now! 😁

Join the FCSA, they have one shoot a month booked at Eskdalemuir and you can shoot at other ranges nearer to you also.

Hi John, A respectful question, why cold water only? I've always used warm water for initial wash and rinsing off. Thanks in advance. G

Hi Cheshire, You haven't compromised your cases at all so don't worry about it, they just won't be as much bling on the range and will come up the same in your next cleaning cycle. I usually use 1/2 a tablespoon of Ariel Actilift Gel and a 1/3 of a teaspoon of citric acid for 50 - 100 cases. I haven't tried Fairy liquid before, how much do you put in? All the best. G 🙂

And wot e said.☝️😁 Merry Xmas!! G

The coins are covering the fliers..... Sorry Catch, I'm only joking, I couldn't resist! it is Xmas after all!!! 😋 All the best!! G

+1 for N150 with 175 smks

I do currently shoot at Eskdalemuir but Warcop is a nice (different) environment to shoot on. I'm just being greedy! 😁 Cheers G

Thanks for posting, definitely a worthwhile warning!!!!