gruntus

I anneal each time, use the isopropyl/lanolin DIY lube and leave the case for 2 - 3 seconds before taking back out of the die and get good consistent bump each time. Cheers G

On a similar vein when using the shoulder bump gauges they don't necessarily measure to the same datum point on the shoulder as used for headspace. As above they are just for comparing a given known (in this instance a fired case/chamber size at a particular measuring point and the amount that you want this reduced by. Note:* Its a given that a few things need to be taken into consideration such as spring back, the case should be fired three times to ensure it has fully formed to the chamber etc. etc. Just give up now! 😋😀 Cheers G🙂

Doh! 1/10 twist rate stated already.

RIP Mark, his posts were straight and colourful, I for one was always careful when posting questions or responses (yes in fear mostly) 😉 VarmLR, just keep plugging away, keep a positive interest in the stuff you like and enjoy. Be a little selfish and treat yourself, as you know when shooting and reloading you end up so focussed your mind gets a rest from all the every day sh*t and worries. Plus being around shooting buddies is also great crack. All the best G

I use a chargemaster and then double check and finesse on my beam scale. I think nerdyness comes with the territory😁 👍 G

Excellent results from your home loads, obviously you have good shooting form but the close vertical dispersion and low ES really validates/justifies precise powder measurement which albiet can be tedious (depending on one's set up) is well worth the effort. I'm presuming you shot prone, can I ask if you use a rear bag and whether you use a firm hold or freeish recoil? ATB G

I have subscribed to this thread, will be good to see results from other folks as well. Good thread!👍 ATB G

Thanks Ballistol, I have some CCI200s I can try.

Thanks Catch, I do have some magnum primers I can try and will see if there are any issues with using a magnum primer for the 7.62 x 54R round. I havent started to develop a load yet so will be starting from a low load initially regardless. Cheers G

Hi All, As per a previous thread, I have a straight pull SVD which has a significant inertia effect when the bolt is "let go" from the locked back position. I have noticed in the past some light witness marks on primers from the firing pin (floating) when unfired rounds have been unchambered. I understand it isn't uncommon in some semi-auto service rifles (M14's etc). See Slam Fires in the article: http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm "Virtually all U.S. military Service Rifles utilize firing pins that rest freely within the bolt. Referred to as a floating firing pin, it will actually strike the primer lightly when the bolt is closed. This results in a slight dimple in the primer, which is plainly visible if the unfired round is extracted. This isn’t a problem with military ammunition because they use primers with thicker cups specifically because of this. However, it can be hazardous with the more sensitive commercial primers." I would obviously like to add some additional margins of error for reloading and certainly want to prevent a potential Slamfire. Has anyone seen this behavior before in their own straight pulls/semi-autos before? Does anyone use specific large rifle primers with harder primer cups for their semi-autos/straight pulls? Is there any information on which primers are "hardest"? Thanks in advance. All the best. G PS - A stronger firing pin spring may assist with alleviating the risk. Will need to investigate what options are available.

Glad your a convert! It's also good for your skin. 😁 ATB G

Also depends on how serious you end up getting when it comes to reloading. If you value your time it gets expensive! 😉 G

Hi All, Quick update for completeness and anyone in the future that may come asking the same thing. Carried out some tests with new brass full-sized with/without the button to increase neck tension and also with/without a crimp using the Lee factory crimp die to see if I could get something that worked. The best results obtained for keeping the bullet secured in the case was full-length sizing without the button to increase neck tension and a light crimp. The following process now successfully meets the original requirement (i.e. the bullets required to remain seated in the case after a number of harsh cycles). I suspect case life may be short given the amount of work on the brass but I will anneal on each firing to try and prolong accordingly. Method 1) Full-length size "new" brass with Lee die. * For some reason, the new brass comes predominantly dinged on the necks and requires FL sizing die with button to straighten them out. 2) Resize brass with the button removed thus creating additional neck tension. 3) Seat the bullet. 4) Crimp using Lee factory die. 5) Good to go! Notes It should be noted that the bullets do still pull out the case with inertia when slammed forward (8 to 11 thou) and then progressively move further forward out the more you do it, however, in my tests I was able to cycle the bolt "hard" five times and the bullets remained firmly in the cases which was essentially what I wanted to ensure some level of consistency but more importantly ensure safe operation with the reloads. I also found a good article here http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm The whole article is good but the Neck Tension section reiterated my findings. Thanks to all that commented and hope this is of help to anyone in the future. Now I just need to see if I can develop a load that it likes. All the best. 👍 G 🙂

Hi Andrew, Thanks for your info. As above its brand new Lapua brass and have tried with the Lee factory die on both cannelured and non-cannelured bullets. If no-one has ever seen this issue it likely points to (ahem) one person............ I will revisit my crimping method and provide an update. ATB G

Hi Gents, Thanks for the replies. @ Cheshirelad - Quick question, have you ever measured your rounds with a comparator before and after having cycled through the chamber (without firing of course and done in a safe manner)? Do you crimp your rounds? @TerryH, I didn't even know there was a tool for creating a cannelure........😳 You are certainly correct with it being a Tigr SVD. I have used the 182gr Privi factory ammo previously and it is quite "stiff" to shoot as its quite a light rifle (and yes I do have a rubber pad! 😀). The D166 design looks right but its quite a heavy bullet at 200gr, pity they don't make a junior version. All of the milsurp ammo is circa 150gr (just under IIRC) but has a cannelure and sealant. Hmmmmm, I think I need to go back and review my crimping method............. ATB G

***Health Warning - All bullets/rounds referenced below have been dummies made up with no primer or propellant in the process *** Hi All, I have a 7.62 x 54R straight-pull Izmash rifle and I am trying to reload for it to try and get a little more accuracy than using bog-standard milsurp (which is about 1.5 to 2 MOA and is apparently the expected accuracy) and also to be able to make ammo if/when supply of factory ammo is erratic. The key issue I have is getting the bullet to remain firmly seated in the case during cycling. It's not immediately obvious when cycling the round but the inertia of the bolt acts just like an inertia bullet puller hammer and the bullet gets pulled from the case. The criteria I have set is to be able to cycle the bolt three times from the straight back bolt release "charge" of the round under the spring tension and for the bullet not to move "out" when simulating a worst-case scenario at the range of having a "Stop Stop Stop" or other event and hence feeling confident that the rounds can be re-chambered a couple of times without concern. I am using new Lapua brass and have tried a few different bullet weights with and without a cannelure including crimping even using a bullet sealant to help its grip. Ideally, I want to use 150grain bullets however nothing has satisfied my criteria. It should be noted that the 7.62 x 54R uses .311 bullets and hence bullet choices are limited. I had managed to get some .311 150gr PPU bullets (B219 heads) from the states which I was hopeful of but unfortunately despite showing a cannelure in the brochure they didn't have them when they arrived. So the key questions are: 1) Does anyone know of a supply of milsurp/standard .311 bullets (heads) between 147 - 150 grain that have a cannelure I could try? 2) For the guys/gals that have straight pulls out there that have a heavy bolt (AK's?) have you noticed this before? Also have you been able to resolve/reduce this? Hopefully, there are a few options out there I can try before giving up and living with factory ammo. 😢 Best regards G ☺️ 👍

It's no more dirty than any other method, just keep your trays etc clean and free from dirt and grit and you shouldn't have any probs and as Pops sais it doesn't hurt to clean your dies either. First thing you might notice when you go to use it is how thin it is and you could then worry about getting a case stuck (or at least I did!). For the first case into the die I just used a little raw lanolin on my finger and gave the case a thin even covering so that I knew the die would be suitably lubricated. I also use it on the mandrel of my Lyman trimmer when I TTL my cases. I honestly think it's the best lube I've used to date and only use it for its quality not it's cost saving (which is also nice). If you watch the 2nd vid in the link from my earlier post the 6.5 guys state at about 7.15 minutes it's possibly the most consistent they have used. Let us know how you get on. Cheers G

* Meant to add that if you want to go down the Lanolin route it's quite straight forward. You can order lanolin and alcohol online. I personally mix the appropriate ratio in a smaller "pump" bottle which is able to mist the spray on to your cases. All you then need to do is place your rounds on something like a baking tray and spray them, roll them and spray again until they all have a fine covering. I then give them a quick once over with the wifes hair drier to evaporate the alcohol and your good to go. I did start laying the brass on paper towels but it absorbs the lanolin of course (what a donut) so suggest you just let them roll. You can also use a dedicated plastic container for the brass and lett them roll about inside. Just experiment and see what works for you. 👍 ATB G ☺️

Hi EB, Depends on the usage for me. +1 on Imperial Sizing Wax when expanding the insides of the necks for neck turning. +1 on RCBS Case lube which I always used to use for full length sizing, easy to wash off. I currently use a DIY solution of Lanolin and Isoppropol Alcohol in a 10:1 ratio (Lanolin being the lower number) which I think is probably the smoothest lube I've used to date. (lots of vids on youtube and an article on the 65 guys https://www.65guys.com/brass-case-resizing-lube/) I now only FL body size cases and Lee collet die for necks. If I didn't have Lanolin and was to pick a single lube off the shelf I would go for RCBS Case Lube 2 using a lube pad (rolling cases in batches of 5 or 10 for even coverage) and a brush for inside the necks if using an expander. HTH G

Thanks Ronin, much appreciated. Do you know what velocites you got with that load? I've developed a pet load for 175gr SMK's to date, however, I think the 175s are only good out to 800 yards and I believe that 155 gr scenars perform ok further out to 1000 from what a few people have reported hence the question on velocity. I will start working up a load (safely) with N140. Thanks again. G

Hi Ronin and DaveT, Out of curiosity do you recall what length your barrels were? (if you can remember) Just looking to see if there is a correlation with Optimal Barrel Time theory for this load. All the best 👍 G ☺️

Hi Onehole, It really is worth mentioning and Hornady isn't the only culprit! I experienced much the same for Sierra bullets as well (in my case 175gr SMK's .30cal). I would be interested to hear of anyone elses experience with the likes of Bergers. Cheers G

Me too, it's stainless and serves no purpose to dry it. I just wash out the drum with the media in it, tip out as much water without losing any pins then leave it inside the drum (off the tumbler upright) ready for the next batch. ATB G

Thanks Steve, thanks NID, I bought the K&M flash hole debur tool from Spud (great service Mark thanks) and put it to use this week. It's great for repeatability and it bottoms out and won't cut any further once its done. Plus side is you don't have to to get cases prepped or uniform for using it (it doesn't index off the neck like the lyman) which means I can choose when to deburr and any point in the case prep process. Whilst I was at it I also got a K&M Primer Pocket uniformer as well (I dont know why I have never had one?), a lovely bit of kit which is a cinch to use. Despite the general vaguaries of actual effectiveness to accuracy (NID you have a valid use case as an example) it has provided a consistent depth for primer seating which cant be a bad thing plus it can be used for cleaning primer pockets as well (again thats another vagary of "worthwhile"). All the best G 😊

MOA-2