Andrew

I don't remember the model of the US cleaner I bought but it was rated "industrial" grade, and that is the key. Anything geared to reloaders or home use seems to quit after a few uses. Buy the smallest industrial rated unit you can live with and you will be money ahead. I have been using mine for 6 or 7 years without missing a beat.~Andrew

Not familiar with the die but it sounds like the seating stem is absent.~Andrew

We get Federal-branded R-50 here for about half the price of RWS-branded R-50. I'll be sorry when that supply dries up! ~Andrew

https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/ From Berger.~Andrew

True. One of my most accurate 22's is a Brno 511. Plain, standard rifle that shoots ammo it likes (a key element) into a single hole at 25M if i do my job. ~Andrew

There are just few circumstances in which I neck size, one of which is when I'm loading for some of my older 303 Enfields. In my Ross straightpull I use a "partial neck size" which was described by RCBS as screwing the die down to a US five-sent piece set on the shell holder. Otherwise, I FL resize everything. I don't know if neck sizing is 'out' but a recent Lyman manual said that after years of comparison, they have found that neck sizing does not increases case life, nor does it increase accuracy. If you read the posts on reloading forums and start a tally, you might think that it causes most reloaders more problems than it solves. I recently shot some Hornady Precision Hunter and Hornady Match factory ammo in my 6.5 CTR. I got ragged holes at 100 yards from the prone position. These loads were neither neck sized, nor loaded to X-thou of the lands. As JCS said: Consistency is the key.~Andrew

There are some States here that have caliber/cartridge requirements but Montana isn't one of them. This requires hunters to know their limits, but it also allows for insight as to what it takes to kill large deer. Last year a friend wanted to try Nosler's Varmageddon 123 grain bullet in his 7.62x39 CZ. It is technically a varmint bullet but, as US shooters who favor the 300AAC have found, these "varmint" bullets tend to act like controlled expansion bullet when fired at lower velocities. In this case, 2450 fps. I backed him up with my 308 but there was no need. At 80 yards a very large mule deer doe just fell down. The wound looked like that from a 7-08 and a Game King. One shot doesn't tell the complete story but it is telling, nonetheless.~Andrew

I have an industrial rated US cleaner. It's a table top model with temp controller and timer. The last two 'cheap' ones I bought cost me about $250 US combined. They lasted about a year, each. This unit was closer to $500 but has done hundreds of loads of brass over the last 7 years. It's fast and efficient. At the time it pinched the wallet but it has been money well spent.~Andrew

Travesty! ~Andrew

The Grendel is a very good cartridge. My CZ shoots in the .5 to .7 MOA depending on the load. My most accurate and useful load is a Sierra 120 Pro Hunter at just under 2600 fps. (Right around 1800 ft/lbs ME) If Farmer Joe doesn't reload then I'd opt for the 223 Tikka.~Andrew

I have the RPR in 308 and the Tikka in 6.5 CM. I can't speak for the Bergara as I have never been around one other than at the 'sale' rack of the shop in the city. TAC A1s are gone as soon as they come in. The RPR's are a stocking item. The Ruger and the Tikka are both accurate. The Tikka however, is one of the best shooting, smoothest running rifles I have ever owned. I don't think I would use it for hunting due to its weight but as a target rifle it rocks. If there was a gripe it would be the magazine cost. ($110 US) Otherwise, it is one of my favorite long range rifles in every respect.~Andrew

Now this is an interesting question. Does Joe reload or is he using factory loads. It's hard to beat a .223 for general usage. With 55 grain SP bullets is is fully deer capable. Of course it will handle the small stuff with ease. A Tikka T3 Lite is tough and accurate. I have two of them in different twist rates. Factory ammo is plentiful. My gun-of-the-year (chambering wise) is the 6.5 Grendel. Not a lot of factory ammo but one of those little cases that hits way out of its weight class. One hundred grain HP for vermin, 123 grain hunting bullets for deer. Very accurate. Though designed for the AR15 it is available in a number of bolt gun configurations including Ruger Predator, Howa, and CZ. I have the Ruger and the CZ. My favorite of the two is the CZ. Well balanced, accurate, and indestructible. It kills deer like a thunderclap. The Grendel might be a little exotic for the UK but I have been thinking that it might be the perfect all around cartridge for a person who doesn't know what kind of shooting situation they will be faced with. I bought the Ruger to ride in my truck for just that reason.~Andrew

If I could afford to shoot factory 6.5 CM ammo in the volumes I shoot my handloads, I'd be shooting Hornady 140 grain Match or 140 grain Precision Hunter -or Norma 130 grain Match. All of the above are great munitions and have given half MOA from a prone position from my Tikka CTR. Unfortunately, I can't afford to drop $150 - $185 US for every Sunday afternoon long range session. Lucky for me, the load data was once posted on the boxes of the Hornady ammo so I just follow their 'recipe using the Nosler bullets I can buy inexpensively. I have found a load that mimics the Norma using 130 grain RDF and Lovex powder so I'm happy. I still try other loads but I have my bench mark to go back to. After almost 50 years of reloading I'm still trying to reproduce factory ammunition.... What the...??!!?? 😲~Andrew

I have not seen the S&B on this side of the wet, but I can offer two big thumbs-up on the Norma. The Norma 130 is amazingly accurate from all of my Creedmoors.~Andrew

I load a heap of 7.62x54R but none for a straight pull. I do load a lot of 7.5x55 fro K32 Swiss and I've never had the issues you talk of -nor have I had that issue with autoloading rifles of all makes. I would look to your expander ball diameter. Next your brass condition (ductility) . Lastly, you do not need a cannelure to use a Lee Factory Crimp die. Get one and use it. I won't load for any cartidge without using it. Are you using small based reloading dies and FL resizing?~Andrew

Sounds like fun.~Andrew

The 210? In 300 Win mag north of 2800 fps.~Andrew

I have owned all manner of 45-70 and one thing I know is that "full house" loads aren't necessary to kill anything within the guns operating range. I currently have a trapdoor Springfield, a Marlin 1895 Cowboy and (my favorite) a Siamese Mauser converted properly to 45-70. For safety sake and simplicity, I shoot the same Trapdoor rated 330 grain HP loads in all of them. Everything hit with any of them falls over.~Andrew

I shoot 224x70 RDF, 6.5 x 130 and 140 RDF, 308x175 RDF, and 308 x 210 RDF. They seem to shoot pretty well. With these bullets I seat them deep and run them fast.~Andrew

Frankly, I shoot Noslers, mostly. The point is that Hornady Bullets are what they are: An inexpensive varmint/vermin bullet. I've always contended that too many shooters spend too much time measuring things and not enough time shooting things. ~Andrew

But how do they shoot? ~Andrew

I have used the Lyman for some time. The trick is to debur after you resize and trim the cases, and before chamfering. I never have any problems.~Andrew

Good eyes. I missed that.~Andrew

Not competitive? Seriously? What is your target at 1000?? ~Andrew