Andrew

There are options. https://tacticalsol.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1386286&CAT=13314 Getting one exported to the UK night be a hassle. ~Andrew

I shoot both. If it was a target shooting venue only, I would opt for the CTR. Wonderfully accurate but for shooting prone, I would drop it into a more target oriented stock or chassis. My neck would hurt until I got a PSE. ~Andrew

Really then, the instructor could issue a reloading book like the Lee Manual to the students and Lantra could approve the content. Lee's attorneys probably did already. ~Andrew

I'm based in the US. I looked up LANTRA and had a hard time finding anything about reloading. Industrial safety was the closest tie to it. What's the connection? I'm curious. ~Andrew

FWIW: i make 577 Snider from brass 24 gauge cases. (MagTec, Brazil) I also use 32 gauge to make 50-70. I cut the case to length and then anneal. For the 450-577 you'd want to anneal before the final forming to an area approximately at the shoulder. These two parent shotgun hulls have been a godsend. There is a lot about forming 450-577 on the Net. ~Andrew

Is this the first time you've had this bolt apart? Order a new bolt head if this one won't function. ~Andrew

I had the occasion to attempt to use Imperial for reforming a 32 ga brass shotgun hull to 50-70 US. It would not work. I wiped it off the cases and applied Hornady Unique wax and it slid though the die like butter. I use them both for light work, with no preference, but this was the first heavy resizing attempted with the Imperial and it absolutely failed. The Imperial is $15US/2 ounces here. Hornady is $5 US/4 ounces. If you think you might have the need for some FL sizing it might be good to have a tub of the Hornady lying around. JMO ~Andrew

Have a couple of dozen Lee's in many configurations and have seen a chip gone out of the threads before. Never caused any issues. Did you find the pieces? has your rifle been refinished? Wouldn't the chipped area be expected to be bare grey metal? ~Andrew

Only in 6.5 CM. Consistency in weight was dead-on. Needed to be FL resized out of the box for top accuracy. Loaded 50 from the same Lot out of the box and the accuracy was not as good as another fifty from the same Lot that I FL resized before loading. Decent brass. ~Andrew

I shot a friends. Extremely accurate. ~Andrew

The most important question...... ~Andrew

I've got a plain based 9.3 you can have. (for free) Ordered (by catalogue number) a 365" GAS CHECK bullet and NEI Bullet molds sent me a plain base. I called them and the idiot shop foreman, "Jesse" insisted I'd ordered a plain base even though the GC catalogue number matched the receipt in the box. It was custom cut in iron blocks and I'm sure he was the one who screwed up. He said, "No returns. That's final!" and hung up. Never bought another mold from them again. I do have, somewhere, a .408 RNFB as well. Old Ideal, I believe. ~Andrew

After a while there wasn't much else to explore in shooting. Performance cast bullet shooting is a study in itself...and an expensive one; I think I have +/- 150 bullet molds -commercial and custom. ~Andrew

The plated bullets sold here usually list 2000 fps as a max. Gas checks on a bullet will not avoid gas cutting or leading. Much of that has to do with the bullet fit in the throat. When picking a powder to drive a well-fitting bullet at higher speeds, it's important to match the alloy strength (hardness) to the pressure of the loads, which is why I usually recommend choosing a powder that delivers the target velocity at the lowest pressure. I did 20+ years of work with high velocity cast bullet loads in bottle necked rifle cartridges and this never failed me. ~Andrew

Unique might be pushing it with a FB bullet, pressure wise. (Which leads to leading) I have used Lil Gun with good results with regards to accuracy and pressure. ~Andrew