Best Dies for 6.5 Creedmoor

[Ralpharama]

I am starting from scratch with 6.5CM and need to buy a full set of dies.

For all my other calibres I am using Forster seating dies and really rate them.

For all the other dies I have Lee because I was persuaded by an RFD I since discovered  not to be as reliable and honest as I previously thought. To be fair I can't say I have had too many issues with them and am still using the Lee quick release dies holding method in a Lee press which I like.

There doesn't seem much available in Creedmoor after a quick google search, but then again what is in plentiful supply currently - certainly not primers.

Although I haven't yet got the rifle, ideally need to sell my .308 first, I thought I would start the case prep work 😃 

[Richiew]

Stick with Forster mate can’t go wrong and they are very good quality. I have used redding and hornady but only their competion grade offerings. Micrometer seating dies are useful. 
 

[Leeman]

I prefer to use full length bushing dies, mostly Whidden, Wilson or Redding, the former as they manufacturer for a few 'wildcat' calibres.   I can't say one is better than the others, matching the die to the chambering reamer used is more important.     If you're buying factory, probably won't be an issue for you as the chamber is likely to be on the larger size, no bad thing in my experience as long as the base is not overlay large (can lose primer pockets) and almost guaranteed that any off the shelf sizing die will work.  If you're buying a custom rifle beware, in case a 'minimum' chamber reamer may have been used which will only work with custom dies, which may be time consuming and more expensive to acquire.

[One on top of two]

 Have a full set of 6.5 creedmoor dies 

Wilson full length bushing dies / with  a few Wilson  and redding bushings 

Forster ultimate  micrometer die 

and a redding body/bump dies 

all in a forest case 

 

as in new condition  1 year  old 

 

Any good .

[jcampbellsmith]

Thanks 

JCS 

 

[GavinM]

Love my Wilson neck bushing die and micrometer seater.

Expensive but you can feel the close tolerances they are made to and you immediately know if you have a case that's on the tight side.

I also have a set of the Redding Premium 3-die sets for the occasional full length/shoulder bumping sizing which are also great quality.

[No i deer]

I had issues once with a 6.5x47 forster fl die..

It was skimming brass off the necks..

I had alot of messing around and resizing..

It was exchanged for another set..

Resized everything again and the replacement had a 7mm expander ball in it..

I didn't know this until I'd resized 200 cases again. I went to seat bullets and they would slip down inside..

I thought wtf..

Made another call..

I had to take the die apart and measure the expander ball.

This die went back and another one was sent out..

In the meanwhile the topman at forster rang me and apologised and sent me a micrometer seater to go on my die..

I thought that was a very nice gesture..

I had the new die come and had to do the whole 200 again and they were finally right 😅.

Personally I think forster is a good product..

The micrometer doesn't adjust as accurate and my redding bushing dies..

Move it 1 thousandths and it seats another 1 thousandths..

I've not used L E Wilson stuff..

Buy the best quality you can afford..

 

[Popsbengo]

LE Wilson dies are super quality.  I use a their F/L bushing and their in-line seating die with my arbour press.  I'm not sure that the micrometer is necessary unless you regularly adjust sizes, just a little more faff to home in on the desired setting.  If I'm doing development I use shims in 0.001" increments, cheap as chips and dead accurate

[No i deer]

Show me these shims etc pops 👍

[Popsbengo]

50 minutes ago, No i deer said:

Show me these shims etc pops 👍

as requested;  stainless steel shim stock, snipped from sheets I have for general engineering.  I know some shooting company or other sells shims in a pack for the same task - only at muggins money 

[No i deer]

Ah I see..

Thanks pops 👍

[No i deer]

I have heard of shim stock as a fellow f class mate used it to help size his 300wsm brass on the widest part of the case as his brass wasn't chambering..

His small based die had split again and didn't wanna buy more brass.

He's since got a beefed up small base die off fox firearms that cured the problem.

All his brass was useable again.

I had a similar problem with my well used 284 brass..

Bolt lift after firing was a little sticky.

I knew it wasn't the load..

I small based die cured it.

Worked like a dream after

[SikaJames]

I've swapped all my calibres to  Redding Full Length Type S dies + Redding competition shell holders, to give 2 thou shoulder bump. 

I have been using a separate mandrel on the necks, after FLS, but recently tried Redding carbide button in the FLS dies, and I can't measure a change to run-out 

I use Wilson seating dies, which I love as it can use them on the firing point.  I used to use shims, but treated myself to micrometer tops, but it's only a convenience

I anneal every time, with an AMP

I do neck turn for my precision rifles:  One 'cos the chamber demands it,.  One, just a light skim 'cos I can'.  I can't prove it makes a difference in the latter.

 I use an industrial ultrasound machine:  cost the same as a branded 'shooting' one, but does MUCH better job, and ut hasn't blown-up a day after the warrantee period 

I do uniform primer pockets & deburr flash-holes, even on Lapua brass..... but I don't have data to say it's worth doing , and Erik Cortina was saying it's not worth it.  I assume he has data to back up that assertion

And finally I recently bought an ARC 3-way trimmer via Wildcat, which is defo never going back.  Sooooo much better that Lee or Wilson predecessors

I have segregated cases into 1-2gr batches, but I can't detect a PoI shift for the light vs heavy ones; so this is prob a a waste of time 

 

#GeekyHomeloads !

 

[Lillico]

I got this tip from Eric Cortina on adjusting OAL using a Wilson seater die. 
Used in conjunction with an Excel spreadsheet, it makes reloading easier to manage.

Always make sure the main body of the screw head is orientated to the same position.

I locate the locking grub screw under my thumb.

[jcampbellsmith]

15 hours ago, SikaJames said:

I've swapped all my calibres to  Redding Full Length Type S dies + Redding competition shell holders, to give 2 thou shoulder bump. 

I have been using a separate mandrel on the necks, after FLS, but recently tried Redding carbide button in the FLS dies, and I can't measure a change to run-out 

I use Wilson seating dies, which I love as it can use them on the firing point.  I used to use shims, but treated myself to micrometer tops, but it's only a convenience

I anneal every time, with an AMP

I do neck turn for my precision rifles:  One 'cos the chamber demands it,.  One, just a light skim 'cos I can'.  I can't prove it makes a difference in the latter.

 I use an industrial ultrasound machine:  cost the same as a branded 'shooting' one, but does MUCH better job, and ut hasn't blown-up a day after the warrantee period 

I do uniform primer pockets & deburr flash-holes, even on Lapua brass..... but I don't have data to say it's worth doing , and Erik Cortina was saying it's not worth it.  I assume he has data to back up that assertion

And finally I recently bought an ARC 3-way trimmer via Wildcat, which is defo never going back.  Sooooo much better that Lee or Wilson predecessors

I have segregated cases into 1-2gr batches, but I can't detect a PoI shift for the light vs heavy ones; so this is prob a a waste of time 

 

#GeekyHomeloads !

 

All that you are missing then is an AMP press - was one on your list to Santa?

Merry Christmas 

JCS