Chris-NZ

So the deer clearly "love them"?

If you're only shooting out to 350yds, nothing is critical other than turret repeatability and even then, not that critical. Here are two (15-shot) F-Class targets I shot recently using an -old- Tasco SS 16X on my light-weight 6.5x47L over a Harris bipod. The wind was not steady in case you're wondering. This scope was chucked on there as I'd robbed the big Nightforce for the new .284. You can see that you don't need huge magnification to hit stuff, even at 600yds. I was aiming at 1/4MOA squares placed 2MOA above the target centre.

About the only practical option I can think of would be to have a Labradar on the mound measuring vels and if any doubt over projectile weight, a round could be pulled to check that, not the charge weight

Interesting, my gunsmith is in the process of assembling the components for one. The salts are arriving today I think. I like the idea that you have exact control of the temperature.

That cartridge has become a favourite here for necking down to 7mm. Impressive long range wind performance with heavies

I'm afraid you're comparing apples with elephants there Bradders, The 85 limit applies to std continuous noise, not impulse noise. The mechanism of damage is different for each type of noise. The internationally accepted threshold for impulse noise is that no-one should be subjected to -peak- levels of 140 dB-SPL. You cannot do simple arithmetic on attenuated impulse noise then apply that figure to limits on continuous noise. I am a semi-retired clinical audiologist and have written articles on this very subject in case you're wondering why I'm commenting.

With your elevation going to hell in random directions, I wouldn't be blaming the ammo or the wind. Loose scope bases, the scope failing or severe fouling would be my suspicions in that order.

Get some Corrosion-X and apply it after washing all other surface stuff off. Reapply it occasionally , especially if they get wet again. I just don't have corrosion issues now with blued guns

The rule on our (NZ) NRA- sanctioned range is that you must have a known zero to start. Main issue is we can't afford bullets straying outside the template, and secondly we can do without having a bullet through a microphone on the electronic targets.

Some might say Time for electronic targets..

I've been tempted to add the auto trickler to my 120 but have resisted til now. I'd say I average about 5-6 secs per weigh (throw - end of trickle) so not too bad. If I was doing more bulk ammo, I'd def go there. Thanks for sharing John.

I have four different .223s and various bigger bangers incl 6x47L. I once owned a .22-250 but the extra bang just wasn't justified. The 6mms walk all over them at long range. If I was starting out again, I'd get a .204 based on my experience with a mate's Tikka Varmint. Stonking accurate and you easily see hits through the scope. He knocked over three rabbits recently in five successive shots. Closest was 375yds and the two misses were so close, I don't know how the rabbits escaped. We were laughing away, very satisfying. Would have been five dead foxes for sure.

Big +1 on all that Dave. Regarding FFP, it reminds me of the phrase " fashion is cyclical" Some of the early zooms were FFP and SFP was considered a fix for the "decreasing reticle precision with more zoom" problem

You first two objections are zero issues to 95% of shooters. You'd have to have very misaligned bases or be routinely shooting in hurricanes for that to be an issue.

130cm??

My LR hunting mates would say you need a decent chambering Hatzi. They call 5moa wind at 1000yds a lot of wind Take it you're using a pretty std chambering?

Man, that Finfire stock is a seriously nice piece of timber! Chris-NZ

You guys with Quickload might want to run H335 through it for both chamberings. I don't use it but Hodgdon say it's fine for .223 and the NZ Hunter lads use it in their -short- barrelled .308s with great success Chris-NZ

Umm, alpaca badly in need of a haircut?