KABOOM

Sound advice

Western Powder also has data with Tac for this projectile on line.

69 grain SierraTMK over CFE223 as indicated by Hodgdon data on line. I shot these in my 9 inch twist Savage with great results at 200 yards on paper and 500 yards on steel. Way less wind drift. Conditions were 3/4 value wind at 10 -15 mph gusting.

My example was based on the fact that the prarie dog lived because its heart/lungs or head were not hit, fmj was the only ammo we had at the time. The sole intent was to show things can and do survive being poorly hit. Having shot thousands of V-MAX I am well aware of it's capability and limitations. The need for shot placement with any bullet is what I intended to show.

Shot placement is paramount. having seen small rodent's live after a hit with 8x58fmj then another hit with 30calfmj lesson drilled into my head. Same size rodent with 223 VMAX had to be hit again with another VMAX launched from a 22-250 to stop the escape. You must hit the "shut off switch" or things run off.

Not the solution but have you seated the 165RNSP deeper?

Im with you. I cant understand for the life of me why 020 under would be a good idea. With a 28 degree inner chamfer you might seat a projectile but the very thought of the unknown pressure rise makes me very unhappy.

RCBS case lube cheap and works very well.

CZ has a hammer double one with 30 inch barrel's the other is a coach gun no chokes 20 inch barrel's. I have the coach gun. Used on rabbit's and 16 yard handicap trap doubles. Yes the high end shooter's looked askance at me until I managed 23 of 25 birds smashed.

Some barrels don't group well with some ammunition price be dammed. Some it just doesn't matter what you use they group fine.

That's a bit warm sir!

While cost is a factor indeed unknown brass is not the way. Why ask for trouble use brass that you know for sure the number of firings and keep notes on usage. Safe reliable accurate ammo is the goal, not the potential loss of things you may want ( eyes, fingers ect).

I use the box they come in.

We use the term fire cracking and I often wonder is it a combined action of thermal action plus erosion. Full auto is in my mind one of the harshest things you may do to a barrel. When I served in uniform 5-10 shot bursts were the norm . That had to induce a huge thermal change between bursts or if fire was more continuing the need to change barrels at 100-200 rounds to cool them off. Having set the chamber end of a M-60 MG barrel on wood right after it came off the gun at 200 rounds instant fire was the result so a large rock to keep the chamber out of the dirt.

Very well said sir. My practice as well

I favor two product's, Birchwood Casey Rust Inhibiting Grease or Corrosion X. Both work! I have a heating rod in the gun safe with a low humidity environ I still need something to stop all forms of rust. This is the third rust related Tika post i remember so it may not be all Bore tech related.

We are alike and now and then i use the lug recess tool. Unless the action is full of grit ( always possible in wy) i dont worry much.

Barnes does the.050 off the lands for pressure spike avoidance. As to why they print left imo its nothing more than this projectile just does.... yes simplistic i wish i had a better explanation. Most of my rifles print to center with any projectile weight regardless.........not all. Baffles me too. Best wishes for good shooting

Are non toxic shells for sale in the uk?

That would be the art of S.W.A.G ( scientific wild ass guess). Tech, experience, intuition and let it rip and see what happens. A great way to look heroic or a confirmed goat. best wishes for good shooting.

i should have mentioned i have exactly one push feed plunger ejector action and i dont get marks on my brass shooting in temps around 30c. The rest are mauser type, true mauser, or Ruger no1 with a M-1 Garand because its kinda required by dna. Not that i recall the place i read it but , i have read some on primer flattening and how on firing the primer un seats slams on the bolt face and reseats. Tbh i look more to bolt lift and ease of extraction for pressure signs. I learned to confine my testing to the hottest times of year so my loads will be ok when i shoot the most. Powders that are not temp sensitive are used.

21c isnt very hot and the primers look fine, maybe a sign of pressure? how was bolt lift and extraction? Possibly compare some factory ammo and if its the same and no other signs as mentioned above carry on. best wishes for good shooting.

That 162 A-Max will drift less at longer ranges probably compress your charge some what no worries i do that now with a 140TSX Barnes and zero issues. Remington brass, CCI 200 primers and if i recall a max charge of H4831sc for about 2750 fps if memory serves.

CFE223 will do the trick easy! best wishes for good shooting

Each shot fired with whatever powder erodes barrels. Some do more than others possibly. I have 4400 shots through my CZ 22-250 having used 3 powders and it shoots fine. Not as fast as new for sure. i have read and not done that you may add powder to regain velocity lost via throat erosion. i mitigate the throat roughness with JB Compound seems to help. Your requirment's of accuracy will vary from mine, at this point the CZ will do sub half inch at 100 yds plenty good enough for my usage. Best wishes for good shooting