chaz

Due to poor health, I am giving up decoy shooting and selling my decoy set up. 8 extendable poles with foot bar. Pole bag. (The odd hole in the bottom, but still usable. (Never got around to sorting the holes...) 10 full bodied flocked crows with feet and plastic securing stakes. (One with a couple of rimfire holes. Boredom.....) 6 flocked pigeon shells. 12 non flocked pigeon shells. (Decent useable condition, but paint worn a bit on the edges of some) Sprung stakes for above. A motorized dead bird flapper. Random time and duration. I think it's either from A1 or AA Decoy?. A sealed led acid 12 volt battery. (May be ok, but not charged for a while so may be no good?) 2 floater extendable poles with wing spreaders, but no floater birds. 1. 2 layer 5 metre X 1.5 metre net. Price drop, to £120 collected. Willing to meet 25 miles from my place. 1. 2 layer 3 metre x 1.5 metre net. 1. 3 metre x 2 metre army surplus net. I'll try and up load the pictures, but bear with me....... £160 the lot. Will need to be picked up from Evesham in Worcestershire. Advertised elsewhere.

Cheers Kaboom. 👍

The first powder I ever bought for reloading was for my .223, and it was Viht N135. This was to load brass for 55 grain V-Max. And I soon found a nice node with 25.1 grains, which gave me around 3200 fps. And very good groups! (If I do my bit). No idea what it's like in my 6.5CM as I've never tried making a load up for it. I've always used Viht N150 for my 6.5 CM. And I've had good results with the Lapua Scena 139. and the 130 TMK. Hope that helps....... Chaz

I just thought I'd say, I have one and and they're superb scopes! Good look with the sale. Chaz.

A bit late maybe? 🤣 , but I still use now what I did back then for my Tikka T3, 1 in 8 twist .223. Lapua and PPU brass. Fed Gold primers, 55 grain Hornady V-Max. 25.1 grains of Viht N135, giving me 3200 FPS give or take 24 FPS. Constant sub moa. No idea if it's any good for the .308??

Cheers. 👍

Cheers Bruce. 👍 A quick question folks, I presume annealing comes prior to any other case prep? Or do I remove the primer and size first? Cheers Chaz.

Thanks for all the replies folks, very informative. Phoenix, after I've done some more annealing, and tried them over my chronograph I would like to take you up on the offer of sending you some annealed and annealed and fired brass if that's ok? Again, many thanks for the replies, it's much appreciated. Chaz.

Totally agree with what you say Triffid, as regards doing small batches at slightly longer/shorter times in the flame to try lowering my ES. I used 750 degree Tempilaq and the ones seen in the photo, were dropped out the drum before the Tempilaq started to change colour. I will either speed up or slow down the drum until I'm happy the brass is right without totally burning of the 750 Tipilaq. I used propane gas, with the inner blue flame around a 1/4 to a 1/3 of an inch from the brass. Pointing the tip of the inner blue flame at the junction of the neck and shoulder. I've watched dozens of videos about annealing and the people doing the videos all claiming to be the only ones doing it right. When clearly there are many ways to do it, and many ways to do it right and wrong.... If they're knackered I have plenty more. I will do my best to attach some pictures of my home made Annealer, designed by "Alfster". Cheers Chaz.

Bear with me Allan.

Apologies, now added.

Hi Folks, After buying the items required months ago, I finally got around to building my home made electronic (basic) Annealer. It's mostly based on instructions given by a YouTube user known by the name of "Elfster's", with some changes. I've annealed around 20 pieces of old brass to get the speed of the drum right, the distance of the inner blue flame from the shoulder and neck joint of the brass, and just to the point where my Temilaq started changing colour. Hopefully there should be a picture attached showing 8 pieces of brass, which I believe are "properly" annealed. Any constructive comments would be appreciated..... Cheers. Chaz. Just to add, the brass is un-prepped Sako 6.5 Creedmoor. And the slightly uneven bottom annealed line on the brass is due to my drum cut not quite being perfectly even. Although I have plans to address this....

Thanks. Much appreciated. Chaz.

Hi folks, I'm after a scope for around the £200 mark with a fixed parallax (If possible) and around a 4-12x50 mil dot, again if possible. It's for my .22/.17 Rimfire. My friend has a Hawke model that would be ideal on his rimfire, But I can't find one in stock anywhere. It's a Panorama model around 4-12x50. I've found something that may do the trick, but it's a make I've never heard of before. It's made by Primary Arms, and sold by Optics Warehouse. Does anyone own a Primary Arms scope, or know about them enough to give me an idea of whether i should go for it or not?? It's a £170. Any constructive feedback would be appreciated. Cheers. Chaz.

This may not be of any use to you. But. I personally do not think the Tac A1 is a "carry gun". I don't recall the weight, but if fitted with a moderator, bipod, scope, mounts, a full 10 round mag and sling. It's quite weight to carry. I personally do not class it as a "carry gun"...... Just my opinion....

A straight talker! If only all politician's were like that! R.I.P Phillip.

Having bought a bottle new with a bottle of thinners. I know that's a good price! 👍

N150. 39.5 grains. 2800 fps. 24" barrel Tik Tac.

Hi BBR, I have the Tikka TAC1 in 6.5CM 24" Barrel. I was going to use N550, but I was advised to go for the single based powder of N150. The thought being the 500 series powders are double based, and are "barrel burners". Not sure if that's the case, but I went the N150 route. I found the 143 ELD-X a real pain in the rear to get a good consistent, accurate load for. I can't give you data on the N555,but you bullet speeds do seem quite low for the powder type. I used Lapua brass, small rifle Fed Gold Match primers, N150 powder and the horrid 143 ELD-X! Length from base to O-give was 2.266". I can't find the ES and SD..... My first load was 38.3 grains. 5 shot groups. average of 2772 FPS. And a group size of 868". My second load was 39.5 grains. 5 shot groups. average of 2807 FPS. And a group size of .573". I didn't continued with the ELD-X. I went with the Sierra 130 grain TMK. A lot easier to sort a load for! Hope this helps a little.... Good luck Chaz.

I'm trying to PM you but your inbox is full. Could you clear a few out please? ☺️ Chaz. Scrap that. I wanted to know where you got your burner arms, but I've since found them. Cheers Anyway....

Cheers. Much appreciated.

Cheers Popsbengo. Not ideal as in unreliable readings, or just a pain to mount? Cheers.

Hi Richy, I'm trying to PM you but you inbox is full. Could you empty it so I can PM you? Cheers. Chaz.

I'm at the point of seriously considering buying a Magnetospeed-Sporter. All I need is the velocities of a 10 shot string. ES, SD and average velocity. So........ Do the Sporter's electronics work with a moderator fitted? And is it more a case of finding a way to mount it to the moderator properly in order for it to work. Is this correct? Thanks.

Cheers for the info folks. I was reading it wrong. I thought he meant opening the case mouth like when reloading a 9mm pistol round. That kind of thing. But he didn't.... I'll carry on FL sizing without the decapper/expander ball fitted. Then size the neck with my mandrel die. Cheers Chaz.