chaz

Sold to Dustyman, pending usual.

Last price drop before it goes on Ebay. £110 cash on collection.

Cheers. Chaz.

As above folks, I've had the scope for a few years now. And although it still works great, In certain light I can see tiny dust/dirt specs that are inside the scope, I believe on the objective lense. I know MTC were "bought out" by another company, But my scope is stamped with both MTC and Optisan? I've tried a few UK numbers for the them and the phone just rings out with no reply. Does anyone know who services these scopes now? Or is there any independent suppliers that service various makes of scopes, as my warranty ran out quite a way back.... Cheers Chaz.

Cheers for all the info folks, I went with a Vortex in the end. And I'm very pleased with it, thus far....

Bump...

+1 for the TAC A1. Very pleased with mine.

Thanks, great info.

Cheers folks.

Hi folks, What do you think of the FIRSTINFO torque screw drivers? They look very similar to the Vortex one just cheaper... It also comes with the test calibration certificate stating all is good. If i were to trust it that is..?? Here's the link..... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GYQDDYY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A17G7YVID2D72Q&psc=1 Constructive thoughts appreciated....

Hi folks, I want to upgrade my Leupold mounts, currently holding my Vortex Viper PST Gen II 30mm scope tube 6-24 X 50 mm to my Tikka T3 TAC A1 in 6.5 CM. I was thinking I'd need high mounts??. Does anyone know if this is the case? I feel I was a little bit "fleeced" when I bought the rifle and scope to be honest. I was talked into having a "riser" and ended up with a very nice Apex 0 moa riser and a set of low/medium Leupold mounts. As the riser and mounts came to £170....With the benefit of hindsight and less feeling of being swept along in the excitement of the moment I would have bought a set of medium/high Picatinny Opti-Locks or similar..... So does anyone know what the distance is from the Tikka TAC A1 rifles fixed picatinny rail is to the bottom of the 30mm scope tube. Whether that measurement is taken from the low point or high point of the Picatinny rail to the base of the scope it doesn't matter as long as you tell me.... I'd like the distance of the 30mm objective lens and the top of the picatinny rail (without the riser) to have a gap of at least 5 to 6mm. I'm also open to suggestions of other quality mounts that I could use and what I'm likely to have to pay for them. All constructive opinions appreciated. Cheers Chaz

As has been said before, do we really need to see a picture of a dead animal to to put our point across?? It just gives the "Anti's" more ammo to pelt us with. I don't agree with the Anti's, Or the likes of that vile packham who we don't want to give him or his spies more information, and reason to hammer us..... Yes I shoot foxes when they're a "pest". And yes I chose to read the the post. Some very nice shooting indeed by the way....! I'm no "snow flake" and have shot most things up to Deer size. However, I get the gist, I don't need to see a picture of 44 dead shot foxes to understand how well you both did. Hands down to both of you. Just no need for the pics, graphic or otherwise.... Nice shooting though! 👍

Couldn't agree more!

You missed out the word that counts. "Completed" rounds, not on your ticket are Illegal. Many powders suit many rounds/calibres, regardless of what your FLO thinks. Even if a "recipe book" states otherwise..... (Most FLO's don't have a clue about reloading anyhow...) I could buy .50 Cal projectiles and brass all day long, (No powder, no primer). Seat the heads in the brass Polish them up and sell them (as they do) at Gun Fares as souvenirs..... Only complete viable rounds that are able to be shot that are not on your "ticket" are a criminal offence. Look at it another way, what can a non Firearm Certificate holder buy without a "Ticket"? Projectiles, (used to be just target bullet heads now both) brass, and powder. I have bought all 3 of these items from RFD's, even one's I've never been into before. The only thing you need to show your "Ticket" for is primers. And I've never had them written on my ticket! Just to add, I would never condone or try and influence any Certificate holder to do something as stupid as making up rounds they have no authority to make, or even push the limits, by partly doing this!. As you may not be breaking the law at that time. You STILL may find yourself falling under - The Chief Officer of police may revoke a firearms certificate under Section 30A(2) of the 1968 Act if he has reason to believe: (a) that the holder is of intemperate habits or unsound mind or is otherwise unfit to be entrusted with a firearm; or (b) that the holder can no longer be permitted to have a firearm or ammunition. Chaz.

You're right Richiew, I've corrected it. 1 to 5 Nm would be just the job. Thanks for pointing that out. Chaz.

As above, I'm after an adjustable torque screwdriver set. I did see a nice Draper Expert set (1 to 5 Nm) on Amazon, but they're out of stock. 1 to 5 NM, which according to Vortex, (If the video was correct??) needs to be 50 inch pounds for the bases. And 18 inch pounds, so should be ok. I could buy one off FleaBay, but that site tends to be flooded with cheap poor quality Chinese copies. Anyhow, if someone has a good low use set for a reasonable price or can recommend a new decent set below £90 I'd appreciate it. All constructive advice appreciated. Cheers. Chaz.

It's a cracking scope! I have one on my .223, I'm surprised it hasn't sold yet!

I ended up buying this. I just hope it works....... P 20 Soft Soldering Flux Paste 140g pot _ solder flux _ eBay.html

Cheers PopsBengo, I'll do some research. I'll give the hydrochloric acid a miss. Although "Flux No. 71" apparently contain hydrochloric acid, along with other acids.... Cheers.

Hi folks, I'm after some flux to solder some stainless steel braided wire. The wires are coming from my Lithium Polymer batteries and need to be soldered to gold plated connectors. I've been told to get "Flux No.71". But I can only find that in big bottles, when all I need is around 25 ml. Does anyone know where I can get a small amount, (Bar China) or does anyone have any I could buy? Failing all the above does anyone know of another flux that would work?? (I've tried cheapo flux, Fry fluxite, and LA.CO flux) I've used plenty of heat and a large solder tip for quick heat transfer, but I'm still struggling to get a consistent finish.... 😖

Price drop, to £120 collected. Willing to meet 25 miles from my place.

Open to sensible offers....

Due to poor health, I am giving up decoy shooting and selling my decoy set up. 8 extendable poles with foot bar. Pole bag. (The odd hole in the bottom, but still usable. (Never got around to sorting the holes...) 10 full bodied flocked crows with feet and plastic securing stakes. (One with a couple of rimfire holes. Boredom.....) 6 flocked pigeon shells. 12 non flocked pigeon shells. (Decent useable condition, but paint worn a bit on the edges of some) Sprung stakes for above. A motorized dead bird flapper. Random time and duration. I think it's either from A1 or AA Decoy?. A sealed led acid 12 volt battery. (May be ok, but not charged for a while so may be no good?) 2 floater extendable poles with wing spreaders, but no floater birds. 1. 2 layer 5 metre X 1.5 metre net. Price drop, to £120 collected. Willing to meet 25 miles from my place. 1. 2 layer 3 metre x 1.5 metre net. 1. 3 metre x 2 metre army surplus net. I'll try and up load the pictures, but bear with me....... £160 the lot. Will need to be picked up from Evesham in Worcestershire. Advertised elsewhere.

Cheers Kaboom. 👍

The first powder I ever bought for reloading was for my .223, and it was Viht N135. This was to load brass for 55 grain V-Max. And I soon found a nice node with 25.1 grains, which gave me around 3200 fps. And very good groups! (If I do my bit). No idea what it's like in my 6.5CM as I've never tried making a load up for it. I've always used Viht N150 for my 6.5 CM. And I've had good results with the Lapua Scena 139. and the 130 TMK. Hope that helps....... Chaz