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Dave, in your experience have you noticed any difference in breaking in a barrel with how the rifling is produced- cut, button (push / pull) or hammer forged- not that anyone is going to put a hammer forged or CM ( chrome-molly) aftermarket barrel on their gat but it’s what’s from the factory with Sako / Tikka, Cz etc………..I’ve seen barrels being drilled and hammer forged at the Cz factory- wouldn’t want one for free - waste of ammunition. Does process matter or is it mainly about smoothing the throat from the reamer cutting? Curious if the 200 FPS speed gain is mainly from from the throating ( and first few inches thereafter of barrel) or if you notice a difference in cut and buttoned barrels in general on how they break-in. John, you have a bag of barrels for your Tubb gat so any difference with the Polyaganol rifling regarding break-in? Anyone had any experience with more exotic materials than standard SS 416, thinking mainly Loathar-Walther, I know that they are hard on reamers so would imagine break-in would also not be fun?

Suppressor testing GIS vs ATec smg on my Sig MPX 9mm. 9mm is quite a dirty round in terms of adding carbon to a suppressor. Short version…… the ATec is cleaner, much easier to clean and shorter. A-Tec on the bottom and GIS on the top. ATec is 42mm diameter and GIS 35mm diameter. GIS after 300 rounds ( traditional baffles) ATec after 300 rounds Noise reduction is similar to my ears but the shot timer will not record the ATec at all and sometimes the GIS with the same ammunition (subsonic). I have two timers so I will set one up to work with subsonic. ATec on the Sig GIS on the Sig

Del, I don’t know….. A quick scan on Brian Enos Forum suggest that it might. I would try downloading the app on your mobile and cranking the sensitivity all the way up. It might work better than a ‘real’ shot timer. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/104538-ced7000a-airsoft-shot-timer/

Del, there are free apps but they are just not professional like a dedicated unit. I need one more or less for every course so I have a couple of the CED 7000’s. You might get away with a free app for occasional use. I have tried the ‘Free Shot Timer’ app, you can customise the type of firearm and sensitivity. Pops, basically a timer that measures shot report. Used for things like calculating COMSTOCK scoring ( score vs time) or just measuring first shot / splits / total time. It’s a useful training and competition tool.

Del, what you were using here were the CED 7000’s. Nothing fancy but they work - shot time, number of shots fired, split times etc. Cost about £100. I expect that you can get them for less. The yellow rubber cover is a good idea for protection and finding the thing. They are rechargeable- the charge times last a long time.

BD, the beauty of the Sig mpx is that it’s piston driven, not direct blown back so avoids the excessive bolt mass and recoil of typical AR 9 platforms. The Mp5 delayed roller locking system is also nice but slower in use. The mpx AR15 compatibility and it’s general modularity make it a very overall good system. My biggest criticism is the 13.5x1 LH muzzle thread that really needs an adapter to use common suppressor thread sizes ( eg 14x1 RH). It’s doable with 18x1 RH adapter or tri-lug. I’m trying GIS and A-ATec suppressors at the moment. The jury is still out on that one but the hardest bit is finding a super strong high temperature thread locker. Sig do a dedicated Mpx suppressor which would be the way to go but I have not seen these in Europe.

Thanks for the kind words Derek. It’s always a pleasure to see you.

Depends on what you want. For competition Double Alpha is hard to beat I have mine set up for pistol with 3 Blade-Tech kydex pouches for mpx carbine mags as a do-it all range belt but for a more tactical set-up ( which I think is what you are after) then we use Warrior Assault Systems belts sold by U.K. Tactical. They are very modular - the AI mag pouches are particularly good ( sort of rubber lined inside to keep a lot of moisture out). The holster is also very adaptable to a variety of pistols. https://m.facebook.com/CzechTacticalPursuits/photos/a.1743372052602320/2292696787669841/?type=3&source=54

Thanks for the tip. I did try Loctite 242 originally but it does not take that much heat to release it. At the moment Novadurit T230, is working very well- it needs an activator for it to work though.

Barrel, adapter ( reducer), suppressor. Testing today- the 18mm thread has enough friction to stop it unscrewing itself. The 13.5x1 LH thread unscrews itself from the barrel with 242 (blue) Loctite on. Having both RH and LH threads together is not a bright idea. I will bond the adapter to the barrel threads with a heat resistant epoxy.

First time that I’ve seen this done. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9tJyqAj-jBo6Hcp1Mis97AJXRV72NQM/view?usp=drivesdk

There is a taper behind the thread but the issue seems to be that the threads are a small diameter and also short. I tried it again today and if you put an O ring on the taper the suppressor will “find” it and push it up the taper as far as it wants. Return to zero was fine taking it off both hot and cold. It still got on my nerves that I had to use an O ring though so plan for tomorrow- I’ve loctited the 13.5 mm barrel thread to the adapter / thread reducer so I am now left screwing the suppressor onto a much more beefy 18x1mm thread. The friction may be enough to stop it unscrewing itself. Also I can get the A-ATec suppressor that I want in 18x1 mm. More testing required.

Our 9mm Sig mpx started life off as a 16” barrelled PCC ‘ IPSC gamer gun’ ( 16” barrel and 14” hand guard are at the top of the picture). One of the great features of the Sig system is its modularity. It took less than a minute to replace the barrel and hand guard with a 6.5” barrel and 8” hand guard. It may seem odd that the barrel is shorter than the hand guard but the explanation is in the picture in the form of a 9mm GIS suppressor. We are also keen to try an A-Tec 9mm SMG suppressor if we can sort the 13.5x1 LH thread of the Sig barrel out with an adapter. We will report back after more testing, so far preliminary results indicate that standard NATO 9mm ammunition is shootable without ear protection and heavy bullet (147 gran) subsonic is of magnitudes better. There is no excessive gassing (gas travelling back behind the BCG to the shooters face). Point of impact shifts have been experienced due to the suppressor unscrewing itself when firing however using a rubber O ring behind the threads may have solved the issue- further testing required……..we are also aware that some people do not recommend using an O ring due to the potential of thread alignment/ baffle strike issues. We have checked this and there is no issue with our system.

Could be necked-up to .22, would be fast with a Hornady V-Max 35 grain .22 for the bullet. Might get better performance from a V-Max 55grain with .255 bc (g1). Volquartsen would just be a drop in barrel exchange from the 17WSM. Neck expansion and bullet seating would have to be done….carefully.

17 WSM is/ was available. Seems about the nearest a rimfire has gotten to 223 REM.

Is it known if the person had a shotgun cert or FAC? As I understand it (used to be). A FAC one has to show good reason but a shotgun certificate the police must show good reason against granting one? Reading the guidelines, certain things seem objective- criminal records, medical treatments. However the bit about checking social media begs the question by who?…..criminal psychologist? or outside agency? or algorithm? It seems a legal minefield of free speech and privacy of access which would probably end up in multiple court cases. Example - here identify is under ‘username’. It could be one user name has multiple people writing on it or that a persons views on whatever do a complete 180 every 2 days.

Scotch - depends what it’s on - 9mm pistol I can do 5cm @25m off hand ( STI pistol). 9mm carbine 5cm @ 50m. 223, 50m off a bipod 2cm to 3cm depending on ammunition and Ar or AK rifles. For me Its not about fantastic accuracy but how fast you can shoot with enough accuracy, things like FOV for transitions are important for me. I appreciate that there are different priorities in the U.K. with only .22 and shotty being semi auto. Not one of my best but at around 15m double taps on 3 targets, I don’t loose the dot on the double tap or transition. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oIm5xE6VT1cmQIM-AJrHhVNohAxZigmW/view?usp=drivesdk

This is my tripod journey so far.

Dellboys advice is good - get Baldie to build one. I would have a good google and come up with your preferred component list. If you have a look at my mpx thread in tactical I knew what gucci bits and pieces I wanted and binned the originals. With a ground up build you save some money by just getting the parts you want. Highly recommend the Odin ambi - extended mag release, Lancer carbon forend and Raptor Radian charging handle. On a 22lr I would go Trigger Tech. Magpul are obvious for the stock. Helps to have an idea of barrel length and suppressor and how it works with the handguard - eg integral or not. For example a 14” carbon forend looks good with a 12” barrel and 6” carbon suppressor- inside the forend. If it’s not your thing a tuner on a longer barrel. Match chamber? I would also think about what you prefer in regards to billet vs forged upper and lowers. I would want 7075 alloy. I would have a look at the JP rifles website ( USA) for inspiration (top drawer Ar15’s) and then have a discussion or two with Baldie.

Hopefully the EU will show some sort of reciprocity to the U.K. opening borders. Derek, I was shooting it today, thought I was faster than a fast thing, then I let Thomas have a go, that peed in my cornflakes.

My new Sig MPX, basically a 9mm carbine with a few upgrades. The Sig MPX PCC has a big following in IPSC / Steel Challenge and USPSA events due to its short stroke gas piston operation. This is what helps it shoot soft and flat. The AR 15 type form factor make it like Lego for adults. Top of the picture are some of the original parts - hand guard, compensator and charging handle. These have been replaced with a Radian Raptor charging handle and lifter block, Lancer 14” carbon hand guard, Davinci compensator featuring upward ports that significantly reduce muzzle flip and other upgrades including a BCM front hand hook, Magpul SL stock, Magpul single point sling, Odin extended ambidextrous mag release, Armanov mag well and Taran Tactical 10 round mag extension (to 40 rounds). Sight is Eotech and an older Surefire x200 light ( it will eventually be replaced by a light / laser and IR combo). What does not need upgrading in my opinion is the trigger. From the factory it comes with a Timney trigger, brake is around 4lbs but reset is brutally fast and positive. I have used under 2lbs trigger in an MPX but the stock 4lbs one is much better for fast shooting. Lower and I believe upper are forged ( not cast)….denoted by the small square on the right side of the mag well. Small parts like the bolt head are MIM ( Metal Injection Moulded, aka Made In Mexico). The design is outstanding, the execution is 90%. On the left hand side of the mag well it is stamped multi cal. Presumably for 357 Sig and 40S&W. I don’t think that they are available yet. The MPX does have a quick change barrel system hence the 6.5” barrel in one of the pictures with the plan in the near future to add an A-ATec pistol suppressor ( minus the booster) and run it as integrally suppressed. This was the main reason for replacing the factory hand guard as the Lancer carbon fibre one has a 43mm ID and the A-Tec has a 34mm OD. Hopes when finished it will serve a dual purpose as a range and home defence carbine (yes we can here). Different MPX, but you get the idea for double taps. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oIm5xE6VT1cmQIM-AJrHhVNohAxZigmW/view?usp=drivesdk

Scotch, for the size the Eotech the window is small ( they stuff quite a few prisms in there). It’s the pixilated reticle that bugs me though. The Holosun 510c (not holographic) has a nicer form factor. I would try this and also they do a green dot version of it. It might help your eyes also………and about half the price of an Eotech. I have tried the 510c on the Sig mpx- it’s strange but I see more dot movement with the 510c than Eotech. What I mean is doing fast double taps ( you don’t have that in the U.K. except on 22lr) then the Eotech appears not to move but the 510c I see the dot track a bit under recoil. I think (guessing) that under recoil the 510c goes off axis so you loose the dot for a fraction of a second, the brain registers this as movement. The Eotech has a much larger on-axis tolerance so you always see the reticle and your brain doesn’t register the movement the same. Although the same movement is there. Total guess but shooting them on two Sig pcc’s side by side I can see the difference. Eotech has 68moa outer circle and 1 moa dot 510c has 65moa circle and 2moa dot Both available with red or green reticles.

I wanted to try a few different dots: 5-45 S&B pm2 LRR reticle on an AXMC, Eotech EXPs2 on a Sig mpx, Trijicon SRO on a STI, Noblex / Docter on a Cz p10c and Meopta ZD RD on a AR15 9mm. All side by side, just looking in the garden at a 50m target. I wear contact lenses and I have an astigmatism. S&B pm2 LRR 5-45, day light visible dot and cross. For my eyes it’s perfect- no blooming from intensity 7 to 10 ( daylight visible starts at 7 and ends at 10). From 5x to 45x no blooming through the mag range also the ocular diopter setting on the scope is at 0, ( maybe the optician got my prescription right). Eotech EXPs2, Holographic, 68 moa donut and 1 moa dot. At anything but the highest intensity they look very pixelated but no distortion or blooming. Can acquire the dot off-axis very fast. I tried it against my 512 and 522 also - same pixilation. Trijicon SRO, 5 moa dot. It blooms at higher intensities but not much at lower levels, there is some dot distortion- not much but looks almost like an egg on its side. It’s the bench mark for comp pistol red dots - big window means you don’t loose the dot so easily and have a bigger field of view. Noblex / Docter, sight 2 with 3.5 moa dot, this one has auto brightness adjust only - blooms, dot is circular. Low light less blooming but still noticeable. Meopta ZD RD, 3 moa dot, to my eyes although this is a closed emitter it is identical to what I see with the Noblex. Has the advantage of manual brightness adjust. You have to go to a ‘dull’ level of brightness to take out most of the blooming. Thats just what my eyes see.

I have an astigmatism and it is true some dots bloom more than others. However this is much better than iron sights where your eyes are trying to focus on three things at the same time ( target, front sight and rear sight) sharpe front sight focus has been the mantra for many decades ( not altogether true but that’s another story). Scotch, you need to look through the dot not at it. You want your focus on the target not the dot, they’re in the same focal plane, everything is target focused - the blooming becomes a lot less of a distraction then. It takes range time to adjust to doing this. After 30 years of using iron sights on pistols it took me about 2k rounds to get comfortable with one on a pistol, although I have always used one on an Ar15. For clients we have red dots on I think all the carbines but only one or two on pistols. It’s something that takes more time and practice on a pistol than a two or four day course. If you stick with it however the juice is worth the squeeze. Try an Eotech- they are holographic, personally I’ve found the Holosun 510c to be a better cleaner dot for me but your mileage may vary ( I still use Eotech’s I think 4 of them as they offer other advantages- but not the dot for me). On pistols I prefer Trijicon SRO and RMR, not the best glass but for me better than a Holosun 507c I tried. I have a couple of Docter and Meopta red dots that are also good. Some dots starburst less than others to my crap eyes. Also if you are using an open emitter ( 507c /RMR etc) give the emitter diode a wipe over with a q-tip it helps a lot if it’s clean. Scopes try a S&B with LRR reticle, love mine.

Ozalid, I still have the Casio and very happy with it. 99% of the time I just use the basic watch functions which are very readable. Next week I should be doing some trekking with the family so will use the track-back function and photos taken on route function. The ABC is really just a support for the Leica LRF but still good to have.