baldie

My take on blueprinting is this. Square the receiver face. Re cut the threads oversize to true them up. Re cut the lug abutments inside the action. re cut the bolt lugs, front and back. re cut the bolt face. turn the bolt nose to true round [they never are ] That allows the bolt nose recess inside the barrel, to be cut to a much tighter fit than an uncut bolt nose. That increases the safety of the bolt nose recess [one of the 3 rings of steel ] Fit a quality custom ground recoil lug. That is an economical blueprint, that in monetary sense, is worth doing. You can go further and ream the raceway, and either fit a PTG bolt which is tighter to the bore, or you can coat the bolt and cylindrically grind it back to give a tighter fit. I ran an experiment a few years ago on one of my own actions. I had 2 bolts made. One was a "repeater tolerance" fit of around 0.005" The other was a "benchrest fit" of 0.0015" I ran these two bolts, side by side, with identical loads in a wide variety of loads. They shot identically. That proved to me that a tight bolt does nothing, but makes the action feel smoother/tighter to the customer, and most equate that with quality. If both lugs are bearing square it works very well indeed. A good factory example is the savage, or the Bighorn actions. Both have a removable bolt head, which essentially floats. The bolt bodies are a loose fit. They both shoot stupidly well. You can do no end of work to a remington action, but you will surpass the cost of a quality American custom action quite easily. It doesn't make financial sense, much past the basics, which will improve it as much as needed.

Worth a try Del, but the barrel may or may not stabilise them. its a 1-8". I feel the 147 and SMK 150 may be a touch too much for the creed, in much the way I've always thought that 140's were too much for a 6.5 x 47. People forget that the magic BC number on the box, is allied to a certain speed. If the case is incapable of pushing it at those speeds, regardless of how accurate it is at 100 yards, the true bc of the bullet, will not be attained. In order to try out these "heavy for calibre" super bullets, I'm going to chamber up a .260 ackley barrel for one of my AI rifles. The mag will just about take it in short action. That will have the boiler room for these bullets.

I started with the RDF's lightly pushed into the lands. By that, i mean gentle thumb pressure on the stem of the hornady case gauge, pushing them gently. That enables a loaded round to be extracted, without pulling the bullet. The RDF in any calibre has to have its own sweet spot. They behave similarly to a VLD. Either in the lands, or you have some work to do. Testing the .224 bullets in a Valkyrie, the sweet spot was 0.040" back [limited with an AR15 mag ] Try the seating depths the same as berger recommend. In lands. 0.040" back, 0.080" back, and 0.120" back. Just shoot 3 of each depth, and one will be strikingly obvious. Work either side of that. The RDF bullets have very high BC's and common with all bullets like that, require a bit of work. F1 performance, always comes at a price.

I've just gone a similar route Gary. Using norma brass, with a br2 primer. 41.5 grains of 160 with a 140 grain nosler RDF. It produced 2800 fps in a 26" Sassen, on my AI. Good speeds, but the sassen's tend to shoot faster than any other barrel I've used anyway. ES of 13. The load wasn't sparkling accurate until I got to full throttle. It will stand some more too, but those figures and its accuracy are plenty good enough. I also tried the same bullet with 560. That produced 2900, but the ES's were poor.

No, not if its been baked. The paint goes past the stage where any new paint will bond to it. Thats why on a multi coloured job, you have to part cure each colour just enough to dry it, and accept other colours over the top. If its air dry, then its best removed first anyway.

Some of those figures are bordering on disaster. I would check your chronographs.....

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The best action out there for 6mmBr. Coupled with my converted mags, they are faultless.

yes, the small diameter pin/bolt head is available on the AXMC.

The problem is the rim thickness Terry....it's all over the place, to the point, that half of it, won't go under an extractor. It was not the "holy Grail" that it was trumpeted to be.

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I've done these modifications for years on both wood and fibreglass stocks.

Give me a ring during the week to discuss buddy. 😊

throat life should be better on the Shehane, due to the improved shoulder angle.

yep, john left us, but his Brother is continuing. Dont think much has changed. Always worth a call. They were the first, and probably still the best.

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Im coming, and about 6 of the diggle lads. Looking forward to it.

Why not use anyone who has a RUAG account ? I've never had any problems with them, great company and very helpful.

The SL's have a short section of tube that sticks out the back Dave. If you are putting it on a Tikka with that thread, they dont have an undercut on them. Pretty sure all the Ase mods have enough clearance though. It isn't difficult machine one into the mod though.

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The proof house don't have slave actions. I prefer to machine the barrel for the rifle its going to be used upon. You only have 0.004" between Go and No Go, and different bits could possibly vary. Thats why the factory always stipulate any barrel bought must be checked for headspace before use. I've seen, several times, aftermarket barrels, made to a drawing, that dont headspace correctly. Not really an issue on a new gun, but on an older one that has seen some use, the breech ring could be worn [ its designed to wear before the bolt lugs, and as thus, can be simply replaced when out of tolerance ]

Having built a couple, one for a close friend, who is anal, when it comes to reloading and testing, we have come to the following conclusions. The 6CM is not the giant killer it was thought to be. Its drops are less than the 6.5. Wind drift is virtually no different. The "gucci" heavy for calibre bullets, are "snake oil" The wind gets hold of them, and dry bums them. like trying to ride a rollerskating pig. I would go no bigger than the 6XC [and excellent cartridge ] and more likely, the 6mmBr or .22Br at that length Dave. Forget quick load and other theoretical wizardry, these findings come from real world tests, paid for with real yorkshire gelt, and shot at Diggle.

It's Cerakote.

Always worth a look around car boot sales, or if you have a second hand tool dealer locally. Vice's come in two types. Old English quality [ when they were made here ] Chinese shite. Most manufacturers these days sell economy ranges, which would be fine for light use. If you want a vice to last a lifetime of heavy use, it has to be the top end stuff. Sit down when you see the price, hence, always look for s/h. The quality difference is not hard to spot.....its chalk and cheese. I have two english vices, both s/h and I've used them most days in the last 30 years.