Re-Pete
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Posts posted by Re-Pete
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I recently sold my 308 which had around 1200 rounds through a Dolphined 11-twist Bartlein barrel using a stiff load of RS52, another high energy double base powder, with 155 Scenars at 3050fps..
It never needed de-coppering and there was no sign of firecracking, so barrel quality plays a part as well.................you gets what you pay for.
Pete
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Elcho 17, Reloader 17, and RS60 are the same.......a high energy double base powder that'll produce insane velocities at the expense of throat wear................RS52 likewise.
I get 3000fps out of a std 6BR with a 30" barrel and 105 Scenar's using RS60. It's very accurate, but the bore looks like it's crazy paved for the first 7 or 8 inches...............almost wish I'd never bought the Hawkeye.
Pete
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That's my next project............I've had good results with RS50 /123 Sc's and excellent with RS52/136 Sc's so far.
However, having seen what RS60 can do to a barrel in <1000 rounds, I'd rather use a single base/modest MV combo.
If I can get 10 shots in to 1 moa at 600yds, I'm very very happy...........always assuming the electronics aren't telling porkies..............
Pete
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There's not a lot of loading data for this calibre, and I thought RS62 might be a bit slow for 115 grain DTAC's (HBN'd), but I was pleasantly surprised. The MV is modest, but should still be supersonic at 1000yds.
This was the best result so far. The flags were stationary on Century, and the distance was 600yds, F-class scoring. MV measured with Labradar.
My rifle is a CG-RPA 2000 with a 26" Bergara 8 twist barrel. Usual caveats apply...........this load might not be safe in your rifle.
Anyone else tried this powder in 6x47?
Pete
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I'm about to do it to a GRS hybrid laminate stock. Should be pretty straightforward. Measure carefully to find length required, decide what diameter you want, turn up pillars with a few grooves around the outside for the epoxy, drill hole in a piece of scrap plywood to check tightness of pillar. I plan to have it just tight enough to push in with my thumb. Then open up action screw holes, add a good smear of epoxy, push in until level and wipe off the excess.
But, it all depends on how the Berserk is constructed..............I've seen a yank composite stock, (can't remember the make) where the outer skin is hard but the inner part is a softer less dense material, probably used to reduce the weight. This could be a problem when you drill out the action screw holes..............
Pete
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Which has a very sharp bit of threaded rod with a locking collar sticking out of the top............works OK, but keep some plasters handy.
Pete
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Quickload, but read , study, and inwardly digest the manual, and start 10% lower............the most useful bit of shooting related s/ware I've come across. Covers almost every bullet & powder under the sun.
Second is Litz's tome "Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting", together with the included calculator CD.
All you'll ever need............
Pete
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How much damage are collared doves responsible for?..........likewise stock doves, also omitted?
Pete
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Matching leather sniper gloves.......?
Pete
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Is it really mauve, or does your white balance need adjusting?
Pete
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OK for the white felts, but what about the "Extreme" felts with the brass wires? And is the white VFG stuff just felt, or is it something special?
They only list two sizes, 6mm and 8mm that would be relevant, and they're "medium" hardness.
Pete
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On this occasion, I think the object was to familiarise the NRA guys with the Labradar as much as catching a transgressor...............the figure I gave them was within 20fps of their measurement, which was nice.
Pete
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2 minutes ago, bradders said:
No issue if they do from me, the few can so easily ruin it for the many
A truer word was never spoken....................spot checks of shooters incompetence cards might also turn over some stones.................
Pete
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At a recent shoot on Stickledown, NRA guys turned up unannounced with a Labradar and measured my 6.5x47 MV. The conversation that followed indicated that spot checks would be introduced to ensure compliance with the aforementioned new rules. This can only be a good thing, if it gets off the ground..............
Pete
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On 6/14/2019 at 5:46 PM, DaveT said:
Block of wood , right size drill bit and 30 minutes effort.
Yeah, but it won't impress your mates, will it ? Not shiny and expensive looking..................someone will no doubt pipe up about "Spends 5K on a rifle and reloads using a block of wood with holes drilled in it???"
Mine are made from a bit of old decking joist, pine, I think, impregnated with some arsenic compound to stop rot.😉
Pete
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To illustrate my point, here's a practice card I shot on Stckledown at 1000yds (electronic, F-class scoring) a while back with a 6BR. This was on a reasonably calm day (for Stickledown), and a modest load producing an MV of 880m/s with 105gn Scenar bullets and standard KVB-223 primers, well within safe pressure limit. 7 out of 10 shots look like they're within 1 MOA.
I could have pumped it up to find another node, but why? I'm happy with this result from a barrel that looks like been round the galaxy a couple of times, fired off a home made bipod.
Pete
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43 minutes ago, Chanonry said:
a simpler view would be to avoid over pressurising your components
Agreed..........I've noticed a tendency in discussions on reloading to imply that "faster is better"..................comments like "back off half a grain when the bolt gets too stiff to open", or "when you notice a shiny patch on the case head", and those above about pierced primers. This gives the wrong message to those starting to reload.
The whole point of rifle shooting is to try and get a decent group at whatever distance you shoot at, not to fill your chrony display with 9's (and possibly ending up with brass fillings, or wearing bits of your bolt and receiver).
Pete
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I flame mine in the dark so that I can see the actual colour. Gave up messing about with tempilaq..............the gas flame varies as the gun heats up, so keeping an eye on the colour and adjusting the exposure time works best for me. I'm on a batch of 6.5x47 cases that are still going strong after 22 firings, annealing after every 5 or 6.
Pete
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I came to the same conclusion, albeit by a slightly more Heath Robinson approach involving a pair of long nosed pliers and a couple of burnt fingers.............
The Lyman melter got the salt up to 550C in around 25-30 mins at full throttle, but with the knob at 2/3rds of it's travel, the temp swing between power on and power off was over 50C.
Needs more work.................I guess that when the melter is used for lead, it's nowhere near as critical.
Pete
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I've shot my 6.5x47 at 1200yds using 123gn Scenars with 41.5 grains of RS60 at 3050fps. (30" 8-twist Lothar barrel, may not be safe in your rifle)
Wind was a big problem, although I did get one "V"..............According to Litz, they were doing 1240fps at 1200yds, so still just supersonic.
Pete
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My trial run with molten salt definitely softened the neck/shoulder area. The difference was easily felt simply by squashing the neck before and after with a pair of long nosed pliers. (a dud case........)
As for annealing too much of the case body, jury is still out.............
Pete
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63mm deep and 100mm diameter. It has a slight taper from top to bottom.
Pete
RS62 in 6x47
in Favourite Home Loads
Posted
I have a LW barrel on a 6BR.........this has been round the galaxy. I've no idea how many rounds it saw before I got it, and I've put at least 2500 through it. It started out at 34" on an RPA in 2007, then a few years later was re-cut to 30" and fitted to an old Musgrave target action before I bought it. According to my records, the COL has increased by less than 0.25mm.
Says something about LW barrel steel, I guess.............but it coppers up badly, as do many button rifled barrels.
Pete