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Muzzle break question


skany

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Hi GUys

 

wouldnt mind a muzzle break on my 308 but dont really want to send it of to be threaded ect

 

would it be possible to have something made that would slip on & clamp up like the forward site does on my parker hale?

 

im asuming i have a machined parrelel bit under it!:-)

 

also how redused is the recoil witha break compaired to a mod?

 

 

 

cheers Andy

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Most of the clamp type brakes still are threaded, they have clamps to assist indexing.

 

 

Recoil is less with a brake than with a mod.

 

308 would be nil recoil with brake and getle shove with moddy.

 

 

Do a search on intenet for brakes, there is some footage of rifles shot free (unspported off bipods) which shows hoe much movement there is braked, moderated and neither.

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Most of the clamp type brakes still are threaded, they have clamps to assist indexing.

 

 

Recoil is less with a brake than with a mod.

 

308 would be nil recoil with brake and getle shove with moddy.

 

 

Do a search on intenet for brakes, there is some footage of rifles shot free (unspported off bipods) which shows hoe much movement there is braked, moderated and neither.

 

 

Wow less recoil(then a mod!) sounds good for spotting hits:-)

 

so wht u reackon on a clamp only system Andy? doable?

 

cheers Andy

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Ai brake is very simple (and clamp, takes a M18x1.5mm thread I recall)

 

 

Jager Sporting Arms make a clamp style brake that can be threaded up to M18 - maybe even 3/4"

 

Russ Gall makes brakes - these are threaded.

 

 

Plenty of brake makers across the pond but most are threaded.

 

 

Best with thread for high pressure centerfire - of that I am certain, like I posted, the clamp makes it easier to set in place if the brake is not indexed.

 

 

Personaly I would prefer (insist) on a barrelled action at least if fitting a brake, (so that it gets aligned properly)

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If you shoot alone then fine but if you regularly shoot in company your friends will dissapear.

 

The noise is hugely magnified to those standing maybe 6 or 7 yards away behind the barrel, the ground shook when a friend used one on a 22.250AI. The firer gets no impression of increased noise at all oddly.

 

A

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Alycidon, sorry but have to disagree on the firer getting no noise increase. It depends on your body angle I suppose. I would have thought something like the hawkins position would have been the worst.

I shot a friends RPA with an accuracy international muzzle brake on and the noise in my left ear was unbeleivable. It seemed to ring for minutes. It was only the one shot as well.

 

An audiologist told me that it was normally easy to tell if the shooter was left or right handed by the hearing damage. Obviously I'm right handed.

 

I agree with the other comments about shooting next to one. Not only is it noisy but everything ends up covered in dust and grit.

Have to agree with Ronin with regard to the threading issue. Clamping only may not be reliable and it would make a right projectile if it came off :wacko:

 

Not the most sociable purchase you could make.

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Just get the barrel threaded you tightwad :rolleyes:

 

After the amount you have spent on various rifles whats a few more pennies.

 

DM80 can knock you up a nice cheap brake as can anyone with a lathe really if you are just afer a simple design. I use Holland QD brakes on two of my rifles and think they are superb.

 

MArk

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Just get the barrel threaded you tightwad :rolleyes:

 

After the amount you have spent on various rifles whats a few more pennies.

 

DM80 can knock you up a nice cheap brake as can anyone with a lathe really if you are just afer a simple design. I use Holland QD brakes on two of my rifles and think they are superb.

 

MArk

 

Hi Mark

yeah yeah i just dont want ot be without my toy whilst its awa for threading/proofing! lol

 

cheers Andy

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There are no half measures with a muzzle BRAKE, if you want it to work correctly. It needs to be threaded on for safety, and MUST be fitted absolutely concentric with the bore, to leave the weapon still accurate. Brakes work best with .020" clearance per side of the bullet. This needs to be reamed to ensure a perfectly round hole. Universal brakes and the like, have as much as 3mm clearance round the bullet, so they will safely fit all barrels.....they are as much use as tits on a boar.

Russ Gall makes an excellent copy of the Vais, as does Kal on here. There are at least 4 if not 5 models of brake made here in the UK, so a foreign purchase isn,t necessary.

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Harrel Precision brake (rear end)

 

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And fitted

 

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Clamp type from Jager Sporting Arms

 

(Rear end)

 

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And fitted

 

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Kals (Jager Sporting Arms) own Vias type brake

 

DSCN1894.jpg

 

 

 

 

The round (Vias style) brakes suite sporting rifles, but need machining down as Dave and I have said in earlier posts.

 

 

The "tank" style brakes suit tactical or large calibres better.

 

 

Don't go for half measures, get it done properly.

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Hi Tony

 

 

just checked wit Kal, the brake retails at £80

 

Pretty certain that the brakes come unthreaded (well mine did) so with that in mind I am sure that the pilot hole will be small enough to accomodate the smallest thread (1/2" UNF) that is common on firearms.

 

 

If you want me to double check with James I will, I know he has done them in 1/2 UNF previously.

 

They are a good brake, but if you do get one un threaded, you need someone with a 4 jaw to machine / thread them to your size.

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Hi Tony

 

 

just checked wit Kal, the brake retails at £80

 

Pretty certain that the brakes come unthreaded (well mine did) so with that in mind I am sure that the pilot hole will be small enough to accomodate the smallest thread (1/2" UNF) that is common on firearms.

 

 

If you want me to double check with James I will, I know he has done them in 1/2 UNF previously.

 

They are a good brake, but if you do get one un threaded, you need someone with a 4 jaw to machine / thread them to your size.

 

 

Thanks Andy - that's a healthy saving over the €150 Roedale unit.

 

I can get threading done locally. Presumably the brake is bored out to be calibre specific at the same time ?

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Tony

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Sorry if thread theft took place :blush: , back on track now :lol:

Not at all andy

 

all info from you dave & everyone greatfully recived:-)

 

looks like a threading job then for the win!

 

ill see wht sort of turn around my local shop will comit to! :blush::blink:

 

I just dont wana loose it for weeks on end lol!

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Rooster

 

you could, but it wouldnt be the same OD as your barrel

 

Most cylindrical brakes come unfinished and require;

 

a, threading to the barrel thread size.

 

b, reaming on the barrel so that the bore of the brake is in line and true with the bore of the barrel.

 

c, turning down to the OD of the barrel to create a "seamless and fluch" fit.

 

 

Thats why its best to have them fitted.

 

 

BD

 

ive posed this question again today in fact and the answer at present is no, not until the next batch is ordered.

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I have fitted several Vais brakes as well as a couple of the Vais copies that Kal supplies.

The Vais is machined so that bore and the thread are prefectly concentric as is the Vais copy so the manufacturer tells me.

If the muzzle threads are machined concentric with the barrel bore then no further fitting is neccesary apart from outside contouring to match the barrel profile.

If a barrel had a thread that was of unknown origin then reaming the muzzle brake bore would be advisiable.

 

Ian.

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RE: The Brakes that James supplies.

 

The screw thread is single point screw cut at the same time as the calibre specific hole is bored, thus ensuring perfect concentricity. He also stocks them in 1/2" unf and all the other common sizes. I know this because I make James's Brakes as well as a fair few other bits and bobs.

 

P.S Ian is right about the clamp on Brake launching itself down the range. Me and my mate helped Ian find it downrange. Still makes me chuckle now!!

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