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Advice with Fortmeier bi-pod?


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I see..

Apparently the rifle does benefit accuracy wise from a little free recoil on the ski feet with a soft shoulder because it won't bounce or muzzle flip so much from what I've read.. also you need your body to be parallel with the barrel because the rearward movement of the rifle becomes angular and the muzzle will flip more the opposite way to the direction your laying in..

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6 hours ago, 1in8twist said:

Yes I changed them. So I can load up the bipod.

Have you seen the article circulating on a Facebook group regarding adapting the Fortmeier by adding some extra pivot points so the legs are positioned at 45 degrees to enable loading up the pod? Quite a good article. 

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1 hour ago, Trigger73 said:

Have you seen the article circulating on a Facebook group regarding adapting the Fortmeier by adding some extra pivot points so the legs are positioned at 45 degrees to enable loading up the pod? Quite a good article. 

Yes definitely adds something to the Fortmeier bipod. I already had this version of the bipod and couldn't justify buying the newer version. Especially when it takes  2 minutes to swap the feet and end up with the same results. 🙂

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22 hours ago, No i deer said:

Your ski feet are on upside down 🤔

I'll have to try that trick with mine.

Maybe it grips better on grass?

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I’ve a Fortmeier that mounts in the 12 o clock position. Attached photos of mine show that you’re missing the large torx bolt and some sort of base plate under the bridge. I don’t have the tightening spigot that sticks out the bottom. I think the torx bolt will eliminate that.

And tbh, I don’t use the QD function of the picatinny spigot from bridge. I leave it all together and simply use the pod lock handle to remove the picatinny clamp (and entire bipod) from the rail on top of my gun’s fore end.

Personally I love the ski feet. I place them on the end of my shooting mat and the gun simply slides back into my shoulder, much like what happens with a Seb JoyPod on the JoyPad, even when shooting the big .338NM. I have no need to preload the bipod. I get zero hop/bounce and have very little vertical at 1000m, though my barrel is chunky and weighs a tonne...so that probably helps.BC778ADB-740C-4284-B59C-948E3390219D.thumb.jpeg.a8ad5a53145952b78e3bba9e3fe10534.jpeg

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33 minutes ago, Trigger73 said:

Looking at that, it seems that drilling a hole through the bridge and using a cap headed bolt would do the trick once the lever has been taken out of the equation? 

Yes I would think so...if you really need to provide the tension to the spigot. I’ve not adjusted the torx bolt but I assume that tightening/loosening changes the depth of the underside base plate which applies tension to the spigot to adjust how much cant the spigot allows. 

Looking at your original pics, it seems that you already have a blind hole drilled for the torx bolt...they’ve obviously just not gone all the way through the top of the bridge given your model was the 6 o clock position.

But most of that work has been done for you already...just go through the bridge, add a slighter larger diameter at the top to countersink the bolt head...assuming you wish to add tension to the spigot.

 

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26 minutes ago, Catch-22 said:

Yes I would think so...if you really need to provide the tension to the spigot. I’ve not adjusted the torx bolt but I assume that tightening/loosening changes the depth of the underside base plate which applies tension to the spigot to adjust how much cant the spigot allows. 

Looking at your original pics, it seems that you already have a blind hole drilled for the torx bolt...they’ve obviously just not gone all the way through the top of the bridge given your model was the 6 o clock position.

But most of that work has been done for you already...just go through the bridge, add a slighter larger diameter at the top to countersink the bolt head...assuming you wish to add tension to the spigot.

 

I'll have a play around with it, currently it's mounted at the 6 o'clock position which seems pretty much OK 👍

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