6.5 Creedmoor

[caerhays sniper]

Having just bit the bullet so to speak and ordered a re-barrel on my rifle to turn it into a 6.5creedmoor my attention has turned to what loads and components I will use. My aim is to use the 120-130 range of bullets maybe the 95vmax on some foxes. On the heavier of those my aim is to use Reloader 17 or Vit 150. I'm also considering "superformance" it gives the highest Mv in my Hornady manual for the 123amax. The one thing I'm still looking to find is what primers people are using in the Creed. I have seen fed 210m come up a lot but wondering which would be a good substitute if I can't get them? Regards Jim

[Grum87]

Many people use H4350 for loading the 6.5's with. It works well with my .260rem.

 

Hornady factory ammo actually lists a suggested load for H4350 on the back of the package to replicate factory performance.

 

Don't bother with anything but the 95Vmax for fox. Even they will pass through, but not before absolutely destroying everything between entry and exit. I use varget for the 95's

[caerhays sniper]

Yeah it's not easy to get Varget or H4350, for the 95 vmax I'm planning to try Vit 140 as I have that in my cupboard already and the Vit powders are easy to come by local to me.

[johnnyb0_1]

Hi, I used a load sugested by Baldie on here, who did a cracking job re-barrelling and coating my AI AW in 6.5 Creedmore. He tested it with a load his mate uses in his rifle. I took that as a starting point, so I loaded up 10rds. to test. My IT skills are iffy so if someone can tell me how to post a picture I'll have a go… The result with that load was a 5 round group of 0.203". It ain't broke so, I ain't gonna fix it!

Seems to me, the 6.5 Creedmore just wants to shoot well.

Load:

123gn.- SMK

Case - Nosler custom (hopefully Lapua will start production as the Noslers are seriously expensive).

Primer - Federal BR2

Powder- Viht. N140, 37.5 grains

 

I just guessed the seating depth as I don't have a creedmore case for my stoney point gauge. I checked the round would chamber and allow the bolt to close and then cracked on.

 

Over the chrono, (magneto speed), the velocities recorded as

 

2712

2702

2695

2696

2684

Average 2698

 

not the best E.S. I've ever managed but the target speaks volumes. I've read on here, from those that know stuff, accuracy beats velocity all day. They're right.

 

You can check out the rifle in the Precision RifleSmiths section under, "Old Warrior".

 

Hope this gives you a pointer. Good luck. J.

[MTLEADFARMER]

Running 41.5 H4350 142SMK 2731fps federal match primers ES 16fps SD 9fps. 2724fps CCI benchrest ES 25fps SD 14fps. 10 shot average each load.

[MTLEADFARMER]

200 yds 5shots

[caerhays sniper]

Managed to get myself some Imr 4895 so fingers crossed this will be a good one when the rifle arrives. Has anyone tried Vit 160 with the 120gr?

[Brillo]

I've found the best powder for my Creedmoor is H4350. Not surprising as this is the powder Hornady use in their factory loads.

Also, not surprisingly, I've found the two best bullets for my rifle are the 140 grain A-Max and the 142 grain SMK, both seated to a COAL OF 2.830"

There are two sweet-spots for both bullets at 42.1 grains and 42.5 grains. The lower load gives me 2880 fps and the latter 2925 fps, for both bullets.

The higher load gives me a tighter group, albeit marginally, and higher elevations, although this is only apparent at 600 yards.

 

I ran a simulation in QuickLoad for RS70 as this suggested good velocities, low pressures and a near 100% case fill ratio.

As I'm ever mindful of the fact that my wife could be a rich woman and that there might be a few people who would miss me if a shooting accident proved fatal, I only ever make up no more than three rounds of a new load to start off with.

 

The first shot gave a velocity of 3004 fps. The second was the same. I decided that was too high and didn't take the third.

What is interesting is that there were no pressure signs and the primer pockets stayed tight.

 

The two shots showed no sign of making a tight group anyway.

 

I can only speak about my own rifle but the Creedmoor seems to prefer medium velocity loads. So, this could mean decent barrel life as well as accuracy.

[MJR]

Brillo,

What length barrel is that with?

[Brillo]

Hi MJR,

 

with a 28" barrel.

[Swarovski1]

Wow that is fast, better get another barrel on order M

[MJR]

Ok thanks.

[caerhays sniper]

The 140 would be to heavy for what I use it for and I prefer abit more velocity the barrel will be 23".The heaviest I will use will probably be 123gr. The 4895 gives some good results on the nosler page for a few bullets and is in the hornady manual I have. I'm considering the 100gr Amax although not seen any one post about using them on here before.

[sandyb]

20151018_212543-768x1024.jpg200 yds 5shots

That's some nice shooting there! Most would be delighted with that at 100 yards. Rightly or wrongly, I thought groups were measured to centres of bullets, or as you have done there less the diameter of the bullet (2 times half the bullet diameter)

[SF-guy]

good info Brillo: I am getting almost the identical results from my Bartlein 30 Inch barrels. As for the sweet spots, it is interesting how that comes to be. My winter load is the 41.5 or 41.3 and my summer load is 40.5 to 41.1.

My 6.5 CM's are finicky on headspace though. All four chambers are cut with the identical reamer so I asked John Whidden to make me a case gauge as well. he made this from a cutoff segment of 6.5mm barrel and it will give me seating depth as well as headspace. if the ammo sticks or is a little tight it will not chamber.

I bought a butt load of 308 Lapua 1x brass and ran it through my 6.5 CM sizer and it takes a second trip through the FL die on some after trimming, reaming, and turning, i've found.

 

Have you made brass from anything else?

[Andrew]

That's some nice shooting there! Most would be delighted with that at 100 yards. Rightly or wrongly, I thought groups were measured to centres of bullets, or as you have done there less the diameter of the bullet (2 times half the bullet diameter)

He measured it correctly. I watched him shoot that group. That was the first outing with the Sierra 142's. The irritating thing is that at that particular outing, I didn't see him shoot a group larger than half inch (1/4 MOA) at 200 yards. You couldn't have knocked the smile off of his face with an axe. Setting aside my jealousy of MTLF's shooting ability, I can vouch that this was no freak group. The last time out I watched him shoot 4" at 800. Really annoying...~Andrew

[sandyb]

He measured it correctly. I watched him shoot that group. That was the first outing with the Sierra 142's. The irritating thing is that at that particular outing, I didn't see him shoot a group larger than half inch (1/4 MOA) at 200 yards. You couldn't have knocked the smile off of his face with an axe. Setting aside my jealousy of MTLF's shooting ability, I can vouch that this was no freak group. The last time out I watched him shoot 4" at 800. Really annoying...~Andrew

I don't disagree, but simarly not wanting to do him an injustice as to his true group.... This link refers to what I was describing...

http://www.ammoland.com/2014/04/measuring-group-size-brownells-shooting-tips/#axzz4BCLBc63X

[gbal]

sandy-you are correct-but the two proceedures for measuring group size give the same result-thankfully.

 

Either: direct measure of bullet hole centre to bullet hole centre of the two furthest apart shots

 

or: measure the outside edge to outside edge of the two furthest apart shots,and subtract one bullet diameter.

 

You can see the second method just subtacts the two 'half bullet holes' that the first never measured.

 

Sometimes it's easy to do the centre to centre,or near enough-with a steady hand,but as the hole gets very small-as it does in eg Bench Rest shooting,and sometimes on here,or there is no micrometer to hand,it's easier to draw in the two parallel lines touching the outside of the holes and then use the second subtraction method,where a decent ruler will suffice.

 

Has to give the same size group (within your measuring accuracy).

 

The best way to get small groups is to mix these methods,centre to centre and subtract a calibre-but expect to get you knuckles rapped by an observant reader with a ruler.

((You will see the impossible too-three shots in a line,middle just not quite touching the other two-now,that just can't be less than two full calibres (plus the small not touching bits)....but occasionally it gets so reported...with a photo....doh!! ))

 

gbal

[Andrew]

I don't disagree, but simarly not wanting to do him an injustice as to his true group.... This link refers to what I was describing...

http://www.ammoland.com/2014/04/measuring-group-size-brownells-shooting-tips/#axzz4BCLBc63X

Ok. I'm lost. The article describes exactly what MTLF did, correct?

Or are we agreeing but the translation is garbled on my end by the "Two countries separated by a common language" clause??~Andrew

[activeviii]

sandy-you are correct-but the two proceedures for measuring group size give the same result-thankfully.

Either: direct measure of bullet hole centre to bullet hole centre of the two furthest apart shots

or: measure the outside edge to outside edge of the two furthest apart shots,and subtract one bullet diameter.

You can see the second method just subtacts the two 'half bullet holes' that the first never measured.

Sometimes it's easy to do the centre to centre,or near enough-with a steady hand,but as the hole gets very small-as it does in eg Bench Rest shooting,and sometimes on here,or there is no micrometer to hand,it's easier to draw in the two parallel lines touching the outside of the holes and then use the second subtraction method,where a decent ruler will suffice.

Has to give the same size group (within your measuring accuracy).

The best way to get small groups is to mix these methods,centre to centre and subtract a calibre-but expect to get you knuckles rapped by an observant reader with a ruler.

((You will see the impossible too-three shots in a line,middle just not quite touching the other two-now,that just can't be less than two full calibres (plus the small not touching bits)....but occasionally it gets so reported...with a photo....doh!! ))

gbal

The way I have always don't it is zero the verniers on the bullet and then measure out-out. Then photo with the reading in the verniers. That way I have a hard copy of group caricaturists and size.

Just my way to be different to be the same