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Shootings Life Hacks


hunter686

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Thats what i thought too, but would be impossible in this case. What would you be measuring?

 

I'll shut up now

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Thats what i thought too, but would be impossible in this case. What would you be measuring?

I'll shut up now

I could come up with a list of possibilities in a heartbeat. Why not just start with the effect that you're so certain about;

or the evidence that's made you so certain.

 

(It needs to be something more than the opinion of one Bubba that you've chosen to like over the opinion of another Bubba.)

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In terms of shooting life / re-loading hacks.... A good trick I use (more often than I would like) is that when I have had a round that feels like it seats more differently than the others in the press or the primer seats harder or more softly using my primer tool etc or if there is anything else I am not 100% happy with I use a magic marker to mark up the primer so that when its in my cartridge box I know to use it as a fouling shot or to expect that it may not go where I expect the call. It means that I can pay more attention to chamber feel and bolt lift on extraction to see if its anything to worry about. Plus when its de-capped I can check the brass and all evidence of my mistake is gone with the old primer.

I have used this method when doing load development marking the primers by colour for a different load setup. Also enables a better check back at home as to pressure signs etc. Obv use permanent lumi pens!! your rounds are marked up, I haven't noticed any effect on the primers and thus far it has been idiot proof on the range. Hope it helps someone out there.

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In terms of shooting life / re-loading hacks.... A good trick I use (more often than I would like) is that when I have had a round that feels like it seats more differently than the others in the press or the primer seats harder or more softly using my primer tool etc or if there is anything else I am not 100% happy with I use a magic marker to mark up the primer so that when its in my cartridge box I know to use it as a fouling shot or to expect that it may not go where I expect the call. It means that I can pay more attention to chamber feel and bolt lift on extraction to see if its anything to worry about. Plus when its de-capped I can check the brass and all evidence of my mistake is gone with the old primer.

I have used this method when doing load development marking the primers by colour for a different load setup. Also enables a better check back at home as to pressure signs etc. Obv use permanent lumi pens!! your rounds are marked up, I haven't noticed any effect on the primers and thus far it has been idiot proof on the range. Hope it helps someone out there.

 

Aaaaand were back on track! Thank you Morse (Y)

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A barrel and chamber can very easily be damaged by a jag, or rod.

 

I have an absolutely mint model 70 winchester in the shop that had fired 400 rounds. Someone snapped a bore snake in the bore [invention of the devil ] and had a go at removing it with a jag on a rod.

 

The damage to the chamber shoulder has to be seen to be believed.

 

It needs a new barrel.

 

Custom barrels are not hard, and easily damaged.

 

What do I care though......I have to eat ! :lol::lol:

 

In fact. i,ve just had a thought........ :lol::lol::lol:

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I dont think anyone is arguing that one can f**k a barrel in no time by being a bit speshul with a rod(coated or not....). But under normal circumstances, how many barrels have you seen wrecked by using a coated parkerhale style rod as it is intended, not for bashing obstructions out or the bore.....

 

I do agree that boresnakes are spawn of the devil, and serve no purpose.....

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A boresnake with the brush removed is very useful for removing the loose products of combustion before you put the rifle away without a full clean, and is unlikely to get stuck. Been using one like that for years and it doesnt disturb the barrel fouling so first shot is always good. You have to keep it clean though as it will hold abbrasive content which could be to the detriment of the first shot or the barrel/crown, like the cord wear that bd referred to, its the abbrasive held in the cord(oil/solvent/grit/carbon etc) that causes the wear.

 

And if you snap a bootlace you can use the boresnake as a backup.

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I have always beleived the boresnake does nothing but remove loose debris and smooth over any other crud. If you use them for thatpurpose knowing that.....fine. I know of too many folk that run a snake through the rifle a couple of times and think its 'clean'. One swore blind it was spotless, so we ran a wet patch of No9 down it much to his embarassment.....

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. I know of too many folk that run a snake through the rifle a couple of times and think its 'clean'. One swore blind it was spotless, so we ran a wet patch of No9 down it much to his embarassment.....

 

That's a user limitation (ie personal bandwidth) rather than an equipment limitation! :)

 

Where appropriate, I will always use a boresnake in preference to more developed cleaning. In terms of bore conditioning, as Gary's correctly said, use of the bore snake means that occasion to occasion variance due to changed bore condition will be minimised or negligible .

[Must add here, that I am 98% a 'coldbore' dismisser; a significant part of what people leap to label 'coldbore' is people failing to understand the effect of changed occasion to occasion bore condition - a boresnake, used consistently, will mean that your first bullet of a new shoot is nearly moving down the same bore condition as the last bullet of your last shoot]

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Possible Lee she'll holder hack. I was just messing around with some fl sizing after only neck sizing for a few months and had nothing to measure how much I was bumping the shoulder. I happened to notice that the chamfered underside of my Lee she'll holder no4 in this case for .222 just so happens to contact perfectly in the middle of the shoulder. I just slide it over the case neck and stick the whole thing in the calliper. It seems to work but maybe someone more experienced will be able to prove/disprove me??

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For about 20 uses, then the coating comes off !!.

 

A

 

Blimey, if that's happening, I'd take that as a symptom that you're either using the wrong size, or failing to drive it on the axis of the bore (are you using a bore guide?) - the body of the rod shouldn't be touching anything that'd cause wear to the coating (eg my rods are at least 10 years old with coatings fully intact less for one or two scuff marks when I've been careless). If you're now using bare steel rods to avoid the 'coating issue', you're probably simply removing the visual symptom, and running steel in contact with your bore surface.

That reminds me of a hack - I've got one PH rod on which the sheath set back by about an inch, exposing an inch of steel rod behind the brass end. I carefully sculpted an inch of sheath-thickness epoxy over that inch of nasty bare steel (as a sheath-replacement) - it's worked ever since.

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Re. OP and tips - if you are looking to compact a case filling charge of powder touch the loading tray on a vibratory tumbler - shakes the powder down all nice and tight.

 

Re. home brewed lubes for BP - if you do make them ensure you put a few drops of oil of wintergreen (Methyl salicylate) in to stop things growing in it! (can be a fright when you open the container otherwise)

 

Re. cleaning rod debate - I use both coated and un coated, cannot see the difference or bothered, wipe the rod every opportunity during cleaning, do not use brushes in normal process, use a bore guide.

 

'where does grit get onto the rod?', think primer residue has some nasty stuff in it, glass?

 

As to rod hardness vs barrel hardness etc. - absolutely nothing to do with potential wear, as with most things it is 'how' you use materials against one another e.g. AR500 is cut pretty well with water :)

 

T

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Re. OP and tips - if you are looking to compact a case filling charge of powder touch the loading tray on a vibratory tumbler - shakes the powder down all nice and tight.

 

Re. home brewed lubes for BP - if you do make them ensure you put a few drops of oil of wintergreen (Methyl salicylate) in to stop things growing in it! (can be a fright when you open the container otherwise)

 

Re. cleaning rod debate - I use both coated and un coated, cannot see the difference or bothered, wipe the rod every opportunity during cleaning, do not use brushes in normal process, use a bore guide.

 

'where does grit get onto the rod?', think primer residue has some nasty stuff in it, glass?

 

As to rod hardness vs barrel hardness etc. - absolutely nothing to do with potential wear, as with most things it is 'how' you use materials against one another e.g. AR500 is cut pretty well with water :)

 

T

 

AR500 is cut with water containing abrasive particles , probably the same sort of particles that are embedded on a used bore snake.

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Tackb,

 

Thank you,stand corrected, but my point still stands - do something the wrong way enough and no matter what the materials involved are you will mess something up.

 

T

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I use these to hold my measured loads when I don't have time to go through the whole loading process. Or if I am load lestting at the range I can leave my scales at home and just bring a press and minimal gear.

Pain in the ass having to weigh powder at a range or finding u just want to confirm a load and run out of rounds.

 

IMG_20160324_112044280_HDR_zpsbgvxrdl2.j

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