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have a look here buddy, i would guess the sako regular is the one, or very near.

 

http://www.border-barrels.com/

 

 

Border's 'Sako regular' profile is the light 'sporter' profile, Dave, not the heavier 'varmint' profile. I have an Archer barrel in the Sako regular profile on one of my Sako A2's- it's definitely a copy of the light factory profile.

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Guest varmartin

My 75 .223 Varmint stainless is 22.5 mm at the end of the stock and 22mm at the muzzle. And 24 inch overall.

 

I think it is classed as `Heavy Varmint`

 

Hope that helps..

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Cheers guys, this kinda helps but has anyone got any idea where I can get specific dimensions?

 

I have a stock that is being inletted to take a Sako heavy varmint barrel and I'm now looking into putting a barrel in it.

 

Border barrels would seem the obvious choice as the supplier but I wouldn't mind getting a few quotes from the US barrel makers.

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Other than measuring a Sako with the varmint barrel, has anyone got one that can help out.

 

 

Pretty sure that the Sako varmint is similar to the Rem Sendero profile, whish I think is .850" at the muzzle.

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I have managed to find this sakovrmtSako contour 1.120" shank for 2.5" to .853" at 28"

 

That's from the Lilja website and they list it as one of their contours, so it should be worth pursuing.

 

I do actually have a Sako 75 heavy varmint, but I don't trust myself to get the measurements right in the appropriate places, bit of a techno phobe <_<

 

If anyone can verify the above information or indeed add to it I would be most grateful.

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If you have dial calipers measure the diameter at the muzzle (.850" / .853") is pretty much the same to the naked eye.

 

As far as the shank diameter (where the barrel meets the action), you will have to take the barrelled action from the stock.

 

In reality, if the stock is being made with a Sako Varmint profile barrel channel, it should have a certain amount of clearance when it comes anyway.

 

So if the contour is .850, the actual profile may be .920 or larger - I really wouldnt worry about it - its a very easy job to open it up if its too tight and I doubt it will be too large so as you would not want it <_<

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- I really wouldnt worry about it - its a very easy job to open it up if its too tight and I doubt it will be too large so as you would not want it :lol:

 

 

I will order one barrel and one Dremel then <_<:lol:

 

Right now who do I use

 

Bartlein

Broughton

Shilen...No because they will not flute

Krieger

Lilja

Hart

Border

Pac-nor

Lawton

 

Oh well there's a few hours internet browsing, but that will have to wait a while as I'm off to watch Pompey beat Newcastle at Fratton park :lol:

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Lilja mate,

I have a Sendero contour on my Stiller 22-250 AI, it came with a 320grit ground finish, the flutes had no visible heavy tool marks and it machined and chambered very nicely.

It consistantly shoots into the .300"s in field conditions with no load developement, a couple of days at Minsterly will have it completely sorted and probably shooting better.

Overall a superb barrel and i would not hesitate in using another for my next project.

 

Ian.

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hi

i have used lija Krieger and loather Walther.

i would not use a Krieger again, unless a customer asked pacifically for one.

the best one to date is the L/W as i have yet to see any copper in it at all.

 

just my 2 pence worth

 

o and just for the record, i would say as long as you buy a custom match grade barrel hand lapped you will not go far wrong with any of them.

 

ATB

Colin <_<

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Have used Krieger, Border, Lothar Walther, Broughton, Lawton and await a couple of PAC Nors - not noticed any discernable difference in any of them (other than the price)

 

For a sporter I would happily use button rifled and choice would be LW as they are easy to get hold of - match rifles, well I prefer cut rifled barrels Broughton or Krieger.

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Guest dasherman

Have used several Kriger, Border and Shilen barrels some good, some not so good but fitted my 45th Pac-nor this morning and have yet to have one that did not shoot.

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Have used Krieger, Border, Lothar Walther, Broughton, Lawton and await a couple of PAC Nors - not noticed any discernable difference in any of them (other than the price)

 

For a sporter I would happily use button rifled and choice would be LW as they are easy to get hold of - match rifles, well I prefer cut rifled barrels Broughton or Krieger.

 

 

hi ronin

 

is there any reason y you would only use a cut rifled barrel for target shooting ?????

as far as i know there is no proof anywhere that any one method of rifling is any better than the other.

or maybe someone knows different???

 

ATB

Colin :D

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I,ve got two button borders, and a "cut" one. They all shoot exactly the same...there,s no difference. The "cut " lays no copper down, and the archers, very little.They all clean unbelievably easy, and i checked them all last night with a borescope...no copper whatsoever.

These barrels gave me a 2nd place in the diggle mcqueens series last year [6mmbr] and the .308 has give a first place in practical rifle [one round] and the 6.5x47 has notched up numerous 1,sts in various discipline,s , mainly benchrest, but also tactical rifle. I believe these barrels are as good as anything else out there, and they are british. My fourth is being profiled, for another 6mmbr. 3-4 weeks delivery.

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I,ve got two button borders, and a "cut" one. They all shoot exactly the same...there,s no difference. The "cut " lays no copper down, and the archers, very little.They all clean unbelievably easy, and i checked them all last night with a borescope...no copper whatsoever.

These barrels gave me a 2nd place in the diggle mcqueens series last year [6mmbr] and the .308 has give a first place in practical rifle [one round] and the 6.5x47 has notched up numerous 1,sts in various discipline,s , mainly benchrest, but also tactical rifle. I believe these barrels are as good as anything else out there, and they are british. My fourth is being profiled, for another 6mmbr. 3-4 weeks delivery.

 

 

I wouldn't have thought that anyone could give a better (real rather than read in a book) evaluation than that from Baldie. It's helped me make MY mind up anyway. :D

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hi ronin

 

is there any reason y you would only use a cut rifled barrel for target shooting ?????

as far as i know there is no proof anywhere that any one method of rifling is any better than the other.

or maybe someone knows different???

 

ATB

Colin ;)

 

Hi Colin, supposedly the cut rifled barrels last/wear better, this is only from what I have read while searching through the different barrel manufactures.

 

Baldie my original plan was to use Border, but I thought I would just have a look around, probably I'm looking at price difference mainly, along with a few other small details.

I have no technical expertise to back this up but I will more than likely go for a cut rifled barrel, with flutes, 28 inches long giving me an actual barrel length of 26" which is recommended for the 6.5x47 and a 1 in 8 twist to stabilize bullets from 120 to 140 grain, unless anyone knows different :D

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Your about spot on there buddy.I think mine is actually a 28" on my 6.5x47, but its a 1 in8" too, throated for 123 scenars.Personally i think the 139 weight bullets are too heavy for this cartridge, although a lot of the yanks shoot them, for their higher bc no doubt.The way i see it, this cartridge is meant to run a bullet at 3000, which is achievable with a 123.Its not with the 139. If i wanted to shoot that weight i,d go for a .260rem, or even a swede.

There are some great barrels out there, and i must admit, i tend to watch what the serious target shooters use. Vince B has just produced a nice wildcat in his own chambering, which is essentially a shortened 6.5x284 and necked down to 6mm.This shoots exceptionally well, and its a truflite barrel from new zealand [fox firearms] I,ve heard a lot of good things about these barrels, and intend to try one sometime. You tend to see mainly american barrels at diggle, and plenty of them, as we get a lot of visitors, but there are always plenty of borders about, and also a lot of kriegers.I cant recall ever seeing a walther however, fitted to a target rifle.

Dasherman will tell you better than me, but i think pac-nor are one of the most reasonable cost-wise from the states at the mo.

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Col

 

re your question on why cut over button rifling for target

 

I have absolutely no justification or scientific analysis to back up the statement, I just prefer them and they are available in onger lengths.

 

 

Ive just completed barrelling a 7mm/270WSM for my Barnard F Class rifle, that was a 34" profiled blank thats now set at 30" finished, dont think I can get that sort of length from LW or Archer?

 

You'l note that I put for sporting rifles, there's absolutely no difference in my mind on the quality only cost.

 

US barrels usually work out at about £350 -£400 for a profiled blank (for the likes of Krieger, Broughton, Lilja etc)

 

Borders cut barrels are similar priced.

 

Button rifled tubes from LW, Pac nor and Bartlein are very cost effective and as they perform as well as their more expensive brothers, I see no reason why not to use them.

 

If it helps I have just chambered a LW 6.5mm tube for my 6.5x47 tactical rifle - so ive no allegiance to any particlar maker.

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Col

 

re your question on why cut over button rifling for target

 

I have absolutely no justification or scientific analysis to back up the statement, I just prefer them and they are available in onger lengths.

 

 

Ive just completed barrelling a 7mm/270WSM for my Barnard F Class rifle, that was a 34" profiled blank thats now set at 30" finished, dont think I can get that sort of length from LW or Archer?

 

You'l note that I put for sporting rifles, there's absolutely no difference in my mind on the quality only cost.

 

US barrels usually work out at about £350 -£400 for a profiled blank (for the likes of Krieger, Broughton, Lilja etc)

 

Borders cut barrels are similar priced.

 

Button rifled tubes from LW, Pac nor and Bartlein are very cost effective and as they perform as well as their more expensive brothers, I see no reason why not to use them.

 

If it helps I have just chambered a LW 6.5mm tube for my 6.5x47 tactical rifle - so ive no allegiance to any particlar maker.

 

hi ronin

 

thats about the size of it, like i said i have not read anywhere that one is better than the other.

i have used Krieger lija and L/W and my personal choice is L/W as i am yet to see any copper.

my experience of Krieger is not very good. i have had 2 bad ones, and i had them both bore scoped by the top gunsmiths in this country.and they all said the barrel should have been sent back.

now i know Krieger make match winning barrels,and i was just unfortunate, but you try to send a chambered barrel back to America so it can be checked by the manufacture,and then get it sent back to you after.

not a 2 minuet job.

 

ATB

Colin :D

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Hi Colin, supposedly the cut rifled barrels last/wear better, this is only from what I have read while searching through the different barrel manufactures.

 

Baldie my original plan was to use Border, but I thought I would just have a look around, probably I'm looking at price difference mainly, along with a few other small details.

I have no technical expertise to back this up but I will more than likely go for a cut rifled barrel, with flutes, 28 inches long giving me an actual barrel length of 26" which is recommended for the 6.5x47 and a 1 in 8 twist to stabilize bullets from 120 to 140 grain, unless anyone knows different :D

 

Elwood, I think it's the other way round.

Lifespan of barrels. best hammer forged then button then cut.

The steel on the cut barrel is not as or not at all compressed and therefore the softest.

edi

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I wouldn't have thought that anyone could give a better (real rather than read in a book) evaluation than that from Baldie. It's helped me make MY mind up anyway. ;)

 

re your comment read from a book :D

 

the USA use more barrels than we ever will,so don't be so fast to dismiss what you or anyone reads.at this moment in time,there is no where better to get your info from than the USA.

its a very stupid man that reads that this or that is having loads of problems and dismisses it just because he has read it.

writing was invented so we could save and pass on our knowledge,and after thousands of years it still remains,y because it still works.

read and learn

 

o and y do you come on here ???? to read other peoples opinions and may be not make the same mistake as others.

 

ATB

Colin :P

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I think that we are all in aggreement then that;

 

a, no manufacturer is proven to be "better" than another.

 

b, quality barrels are available from other sources than the USA.

 

c, it pays to shop around as most expensive is not always "best quality"

 

 

Glad we have cleared that one up :D:D;):P

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Elwood, I think it's the other way round.

Lifespan of barrels. best hammer forged then button then cut.

The steel on the cut barrel is not as or not at all compressed and therefore the softest.

edi

 

Hi Edi

 

Oh well now I'm confused, I have read on two barrel manufactures websites claiming that cut rifled barrels last longer, they both use the cut rifling method so I guess they would.

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Elwood,

Technically it would make sense that they are the softest.

I asked that question to two lads from border when at

the IWA and both confirmed that the cut lasts least.

 

Question is just what destroys a barrel most?

is it heat, mechanical abrasion, or chemical attack.

The hardness advantage might only help with mechanical

abrasion.

So overall it might not be a huge difference.

 

edi

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