Neck Turning

[andybrock]

When I ever neck turn cases I have always held the case in a holder in a drill chuck, spun the case then fed it onto the cutter mandrel and down to the cutter, But looking at youtube I've noticed one or two demonstrations where they hold the case firm and have the cutter fixed into the drill chuck which is then spun and fed down the case neck. I suppose both methods end up with the same result but I was wondering which method, if any give the best results?

 

 

Cheers

 

Andy

[varmartin]

I have only ever spun the case, holding the cutter loosly in my hand ( K&M )cant see how the reults can be improved though ..?

[andybrock]

I have only ever spun the case, holding the cutter loosly in my hand ( K&M )cant see how the reults can be improved though ..?

 

I've always done it that way Martin except I use a Sinclair cutter, I would have thought putting the cutter in a drill bit would cause it to unbalance and wobble as they are a hefty lump of metal. I've also seen them cut on a lathe which I would imagine gives accurate results also.

[Ronin]

I used to spin the cases slowly with electric screwdriver and hold the cutting tool.

 

excellent results with this method.

 

 

I now turn using the lathe, the case neck held in a mandrel - getting the same excellent results as the first method.

[SteveW]

I use the same method as Martin and Andy' 1st method with the K&M tools, the only thing I find when doing a lot of cases at one sitting my fingers/hand goes numb.

Maybe I'm just a soft Southern, but thinking about one of these

 

https://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/neck-turner-tools/ergo_holder.html

 

Steve

[taylor]

i use same method as ronnin ,i used to use the k+n and use a hand drill that wobbles about .doing it in the drill press or mill is better ,but you cant beat lathe turned brass ,i make a mandrel everytime i cut brass as you cant dial in the mandrel 100% concentric ,so i make one from a old bolt and cut to bullet diameter then slide on a case then turn ,wonce its all set up its pretty quick

[Elwood]

Debate

 

http://www.accurateshooter.com/forum/index.php/topic,3757221.0.html

 

My engineering skills go as far as large hammers and baler twine, so I will be staying out of this one.

[taylor]

my case spinns with the mandrel and nothing else touches the case appart from the cutting tool, and it has less variation than the k+m as i have meassured both

the k+m are good ,but single point on the lathe cant be beat ,in a hunting rifle it wont make any difference how you do it but in competition every advantadge counts

[Elwood]

but in competition every advantadge counts

 

You have already taught this Grasshopper the ways Now all I have to do is beat you on the line

[taylor]

i am sure you will - if you can get to more shoots

[garyw]

I have only ever spun the case, holding the cutter loosly in my hand ( K&M )cant see how the reults can be improved though ..?

same here-k+m plenty of lube on the mandrel stops the case neck getting hot.i was shown to turn necks by a well known rifle builder who insist on doing 2 passes with the cutter 1 pass takes off a small amount -do 50 cases then adjust to the final cut he does his on one of his lathes with a tool he has for holding the cases he doesnt have to fanny about with a hand cutter. my first attempts i did on some old brass to get the hang of it it soon comes to you.

[Scotch_egg]

Do you just neck turn for tight neck chambers or is it worth while neck turning for every chamber?

[Ronin]

To be honest, I do a light turn on any case - regardless of fitted neck or not.

[garyw]

if you want the best out of all your kit from your ammo, to scope ,to rifle then id say yes turn your necks for every chamber-BUT, is it worth it for a rifle/calibre that is only for bunny/vermin bashing and not used as a target rifle?this will always divide us-the thing is if you do turn necks you are at least trying to eliminate as many variables as possible.

up to me getting a custom .22br i never turned necks but bought the kit and got stuck in it pays off,BUT i have 4 other rifles that i load for and dont turn the brass for them im happy with the end result in my ammo and what the rifles deliver for the jobs that they are used for.

if i did decide to neck turn for the other 4 cals then all i would need are mandrels and change the bushings in my neck dies- is the cost worth the extra i may gain?-i dont know till i try.

[taylor]

i also turn for every cal i have, it gives uniform neck tension, you wont notice at short range but at long range i believe it helps

[andybrock]

To make life easier for myself I have 2 cutters, the first one is set to take maybe 75% of the cut and the second one set to take the remaining 25% off this last cut is always nice and smooth, then it's a quick spin in some wirewool and job done.

[onehole]

I have rifles that are tight necked and have to neck turn,the result is superb with zero to a couple of tenths runout and accuracy to match.A 308 that I have is not a tight neck but a match tolerance spec but have recently resorted to neckturning to extract the best out of some really wobbly "Lapua" brass.Even at short range I can clearly see the difference between the brass that loads up with up to 4 thou runout!! and the ones I have neck turned to under half a thou.The wobbly rounds go into about 1" with no pattern and the cleaned up brass gave much better and sometimes stonking all touching tight groups.The 1" groups I suppsose would be acceptable for many and I know conditions can and will mess it up more but it is so easy to extract a bit more potential accuracy and will certainly show up at distance.

A recent lot of "HPS" "men" manufacure brass was first class in consistency and no need to turn at all.

If you have not got any runout measuring devices then roll a loaded round on a flat surface with a white background and with a good light above this will cause a shadow and clearly show any non concentricity.Two thou out and it will wobble!!!Regds Onehole.