John MH

Championship Timer & Chronograph with Skyscreens reduced to £30.00 plus postage

Ray-Vin Stand £50.00 plus postage

I am having a garage clear out and have found this Ray-Vin Chronograph Stand

£50.00 plus postage

1 hour ago, Mat said:

When has that ever stopped anyone buying an AI or PRS rig? 

Never, but to post 'I bought or am having built A, B, C or D for W, X, Y, or Z' with no intension of ever doing or taking part in W, X, Y or Z is a very common trait.

Do you actually do and take part in all all of what you suggest in your profile?

If you do that's great, but many whilst 'interested' in their profile (not just here but also on Facebook etc) they don't actually follow it up in anything other than in their imagination.

To wish and imagine is great but then to profess 'knowledge', based on imagined experience or expertise should be taken with a pinch of salt.

If its for PRS shooters there is no market in the UK as despite there being various forums where lots of people say they are having a rifle built or buying a particular rifle for PRS the majority have never and will never shoot a PRS match.

8 hours ago, dave thorniley said:

next up do you kneck size or full

Who kneck sizes?

I wont, I wont, I wont.

10 hours ago, One on top of two said:

What .. you don’t mean the 

Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler ? 
 

bang out of order matey . 

 

It was very close to that.

Last time I got into a debate about proof I upset someone when I referred to them as a small song bird, they took real umbrage and had quite a hissy fit.

Lets not have a debate about proofing again, the last one ended in tears 😂

I'll stick with what I've got.

5 minutes ago, Catch-22 said:

Why not get a Magnetospeed? The accuracy and repeatability is almost on par with the Labradar according to Litz.

Super easy to use and won’t affect barrel harmonics when used with the MK picatinny mount.

Had a US Spec Labradar but now use a V3 Magnetospeed and MK Mount.

Well if you want to be really specific its best to try several sized cases as each will probably be slightly different (more or less spring back even if annealed) and opt for the average but we are probably talking less than 0.001" here and the ability to consitently and accurately measure that difference starts to get difficult.

17 minutes ago, Catch-22 said:

Simples really.

Take your bolt out, remove the firing pin/striker and remove the ejector too. It’s fine to keep the extractor claw.

Screw your F/L die into your press until it contacts your shell holder. Now back the die out a couple of turns, so it won’t fully size all of the case back down to SAMMI spec as that’s too much.

Now insert your bolt (minus the firing pin/striker and ejector you removed) and the handle should just flop down without any resistance.

Take a piece of fired brass, lube it, place in press and size it. Remove brass, wipe lube off and place brass into your rifle’s chamber and gently close the bolt. If the bolt doesn’t fully close, or it closes with some force/resistance, the brass needs to be sized down further.

Extract brass, lube and place in press. Turn die DOWN (so sizing the brass more) just a tad (0.01 or 0.02). Size the brass again. Now try it again in your chamber.

Repeat just until your bolt will flop down like it did with no brass. This tell you that you’ve bumped your shoulder back just enough so the brass has minimal clearance but is guaranteed to chamber freely so you don’t get chambering issues. It’s also been sized just a minimal amount, no where near SAMMI spec. Use your calipers and Hornady headspace gauge to record the optimum headspace bump value.

Ive found this to be the most accurate way of measuring my chamber headspace and minimum case bump required.

There was an excellent and simple vid from Aron Wheeler (gunsmith) showing it all but I cannot find it on YouTube sadly.

This is very true.

14 minutes ago, Re-Pete said:

If I worried about all the unexpected things that could happen to me whenever I left the house, I'd never get out of bed...............it's all about doing your own "risk assessment" and taking sole responsibility when you get it wrong.

Pete

It’s not about what you are worried about, it’s whether it is wise or not.

47 minutes ago, Re-Pete said:

I really can't see any increased risk to myself or anyone else if I drive from a tier 2 to Bisley, shoot alone for a couple of hours, then drive back.

Question you need to ask yourself is, is it wise to dos so?

I personally don't think it is 'wise', think of all the unexpected things that could happen that could bring you into contact with someone in a Tier 4 area who could unintentionally infect you with Covid-19 and that you then take that infection back home with you. Not the actions of a 'wise' man.

 

Neck tension.

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2020/12/2021-iwa-outdoor-classics-trade-show-cancelled/

3rd Party sales are against the Sales Section Rules.

If it's for the turrets they are 2mm.

I use Murom standard primers for .223 with no issues.

1 hour ago, Catch-22 said:

Yeah, I think with the ITAR changes, muzzle brakes are no longer handled by ITAR but controlled by Department for Commerce and can be more freely/easily exported under EAR99.

Obviously no issue U.K. side as it’s a non licensable component.

Not sure if all US firms either know this or have adapted to the change, but Area419 is one that has. 

Thanks.

9 minutes ago, Catch-22 said:

Check out Area419 - they manufacture a host of different ARCA rail options;

https://www.area419.com/product-category/accessories/arca/

They also do post to the U.K. - just last week I bought my 3rd Sidewinder Muzzle Brake (which are just stunning)!

Did not think they would ship Muzzle Brakes.

I thought Diggle used Shotmarker Targets.

11 hours ago, ds1 said:

Annealing, I think most competitive  shooters now do it but didn’t  Brian Litz say that there was no evidence for it showing accuracy improvements. 

There is empirical evidence to suggest thats not quite true these days.

I use one of these, and have several sets of pin gauges to set the neck tension.