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SchmidtP3

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Everything posted by SchmidtP3

  1. 300 x .338 Lapua RUAG once fired cases available at £50/100 delivered.
  2. Have a look at 'By Sword and Musket' website. http://www.byswordandmusket.co.uk Seems to be a specialist and very knowledegable concerning the 1903, he would be able to help you out.
  3. There's a nice S&B 6x42 PMII on eBay with a mildot reticle, 30mm tube. Not illuminated though. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143650679603
  4. It could be zombies, plagues of locusts, nuclear holocaust, the Greens winning the election - anything that might require a prepared daysack or bergen that is always good to go. It would be the one thing you would want/need to grab in a sheet hits the fan scenario, which would allow you sufficient supplies and equipment to make a fist of immediate survival.
  5. Now SOLD .338 Lapua RUAG once fired cases, £50/110 including delivery. Cases will need decapping and resizing.
  6. As Andrew says really. What is your aim - cheap and plentiful plinking ammo, robust hunting round, decent target round or platinum laser? It's easy enough to look at a few components (powder, round, brass) and then work out a rough costing. Powder is easy enough to estimate - get an average per round grain weight and divide a pot of powder by that grain weight to figure out roughly how many rounds you'll get.
  7. Agreed - make good equipment and leave the crappy rubber stocks and gewgaws off those firearms! Narrow the product line down again and pay attention to fit and finish of the product that hits the shelves.
  8. I agree with that in a targetry context. I should have clarified that this, for me, is mostly in a hunting context, where the first shot should be the only shot (unless there is a second animal to shoot later). So when I zero at 100m, I would want my cold bore shot to be the same as my first shot in the field.
  9. Sure, and probably ok with a very lightly oiled barrel. I have decided to keep it as uniform and routine as possible, so patch out with alcohol, then dry before shooting. That way I know it is clear, and will minimise as much variation as possible (maybe one instance there was more oil than usual, maybe one time it evaporated more than others, maybe a piece of grit gets stuck in some tacky oil etc etc).
  10. If the warming of the chamber and barrel was a factor, would a string of shots therefore not all result in different POI's? Until you reach a critical temperature and it stabilises?
  11. Oil does not compress well, so oil in the bore is not a great idea with a high speed high pressure round screaming down the barrel. In extreme cases (a greater amount of oil) a bulge or pressure ring could be created. Plus, oil in a barrel creates a nasty signature puff of smoke (at least with the first round). To wit, I do leave my carbon steel barrel with a light coating of Ballistol, but prior to shooting it is given a patch with a meths patch followed by a dry patch or two. I don't run it through with a meths or alcohol patch and then leave it for days, usually as close to shooting as possible.
  12. Avoid the damage of oil in the bore by cleaning out with a methylated spirit patch followed by a dry patch. Clean, dry bore.
  13. A theory I subscribe to is one aired by Ryan Cleckner (shooting instructor). He thinks that it can be directly attributed to the shooter not being warmed up, rather than the condition of the barrel. He recommends 'warming up' by properly testing and adjusting position, dry firing and calling your shots (gauging your dry fire let offs). This makes a lot of sense to me - it's common to see people go straight from waiting around to straight on the rifle and firing. You wouldn't do this if you were golfing, as an example, would you? No, you would at least take some warm up swings rather than the first swing being the warm up (and a rubbish hit).
  14. I shouldn't think it would cause it. This is an interesting read on proper pitting, shocking how it is not just 'skin deep' but actually quite deeply affected. Link here
  15. Whoa, gutted for you mate, that looks terrible.
  16. Try the old @duke trick - by placing the @ before the users name, this should alert him that he's mentioned and direct him back to this thread.
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