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Posts posted by Popsbengo
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1 hour ago, rocketdogbert said:
Last update on this, scope went back to Vortex on Wednesday morning.
They received it at 12:30 yesterday, by 14:30 I had an email confirming it was faulty and a new scope would be in the post today.
What awesome service, you can’t ask for better I don’t think.
Glad it's getting fixed. Useful feedback
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If this is what this forums' coming to, I've had enough. You are a total pr1ck
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3 hours ago, jimbob123 said:
Hi all
I recently bought a "kit" from my local gun shop (Glasgow); rifle, scope, mounts, bipod etc. The mounts are Burris XTR Signature. The mounts are "Medium", and the gap between the scope bell and the barrel is around 9mm.
I can buy the "Low" mounts, and I believe they will fit, and will reduce the gap to around 3mm. The mounts are £99.
So my question: is this worthwhile? For 1/4 inch.
Rifle is Tikka T3x and scope is Steiner Ranger 4 6-24 x 56.
Thanks
Jim
Generally it's advised to get the scope as low as you can without the bell of the scope touching the barrel etc. It's a compromise at the end of the day, a good cheek weld and a comfortable scope picture in the shooting position you mostly use.
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7 hours ago, kwakkerjack said:
I love the smell of "triggered" gun-control activitists in the morning.
Member on this forum for 6 years and only 5 visible posts, 3 of which are about government regulations (and only 2 posts made, up until a couple of days ago). {I know, Ad Hominem argument}
That's a pretty dickish thing to write. Your "advice" to post powder unlawfully is just plane stupid and you're called out on it -reasonably in my opinion
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9 hours ago, John_fes said:
Sending powder, propellant via standard postal carrier is a really stupid idea if against the carriers terms and conditions, which it is for all but a very few specialists hazardous goods carriers.
It potentially puts at risk individuals in the delivery process and could result in further restrictions on ownership if some incident occurred, and likely cost the sender their firearms certificates.
standard powders are classed as 1.3c UN161 hence are classified as explosives their is no such “classed as propellant”
ownership of powders is licensed, but as a owner of an FAC, SGC, RFD then explosive regulations 2014 (ER2014) includes an exemption from requiring a licence to acquire and keep, (unlike black powder) a limited amount of net explosive quantity, which includes all powder in ammunition, cartridges or lose powder. Above the exemption limit you then need a licence.
Sellers of powder must see your certificate to purchase and record details as per ER2014For details read the HSE explosive regulations.
ignorance of the law is no excuse in the eyes of the law.
edit to add, explosives are classified together with their packaging, typically cardboard box which will have a 4G code on the box, confirming the box has been tested as suitable to transport the explosive.
so it can only be transported in this original packaging.
well said
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48 minutes ago, phaedra1106uk said:
Anyone gat a link for this? I dropped off my mag at my club on Thursday and can't find anything on their website.
Contact Kelly at training.nra.org.uk,
There's nothing on the website as yet (as of yesterday).
I have the Code of Practice and the training pack can be purchased. I have received that this morning and it's very comprehensive, we intend to use their programme to train our members.
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12 minutes ago, Montey said:
I just read the NRA magazine and on page 6 there’s the complete two page explanation of how the reloading policies are going to work I think it looks very good and the way forward. How ever I’m interested in others opinions.?
is there a problem I’m missing?
i shoot mainly Fclass open (when I can get the reloading components )and have been reloading for many years different calibres.
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I agree with you. I have ordered a copy of their training materials to assess for our club. The Code of Practice is only what one would assume was done so signing up to that isn't going to be contentious except for those that load .308 above 4500J without declaring HME etc
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1 hour ago, Roy W said:
Have you ever been asked to show receipts for reloading supplies to prove you have reloaded and shot ammunition?
Not sure how they would ever know how much or little you have shot unless you told them?
Or buy some factory ammo and shoot it.
Agree with the above. And if you're a target shooter I'd add make sure you log the firearm on any range log and your good I believe
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She's very good George
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1 hour ago, Rickyd said:
I’m toying with the idea of reloading. With so many different options I’m a bit confused. I’m planning on loading 52g eld match for my .223 what powder would be best to use?
Get an up to date manual like Lyman 50th Edition, internet info is no substitute especially when starting out. As Durham Shooter says above, maybe think about attending a reloading course
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Some TR types at Bisley are convinced they suffer "passive concussion" from other people's brakes. Not sure that would stand up to any medical opinion especially compared to being about 26" from their own muzzle and when competing, many, many others.
Having said that, I've not had any negativity from others when shooting at Bisley with my club
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Welcome to the forum
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4 minutes ago, rocketdogbert said:
I have an electronic torque wrench, so I’m not over tightening anything, and I didn’t star pt checking until the zero started drifting, good idea though.
i think you’re right, I’ll need to shoot some groups, then give the scope a hand whack and see how it responds.
At the moment I’m inclined to think user error somewhere, but where I don’t know
you shouldn't keep torquing the screws again and again, if they're right leave them alone. Best of luck
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Try shooting it once "re zeroed" and shooting groups then give the scope a good knock with your hand and try shooting again before doing anything else. I had a friend with a similar problem and it was the Vortex scope internals jumping.
If the scope is good I'll be surprised, except you say you checked the torque on the mounts - how did you do this? I'm wondering if you're making the problem by upsetting the mounts ? It's a longshot (no pun intended) but it's a strange one needing careful elimination step by step
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I've come across this, maybe important to some on here
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2 minutes ago, JCalleja91 said:
See this is the thing.. nothing sounds loud, I don't have any ringing in the ears immediately after. It's like.. After a few hours I start to get it, stays for a day or so then goes.
I'll have a play with some foam ear plugs. Because it's only in my right ear as well and I did notice the surefire plugs fit better in my left ear than my right.
Maybe not shooting related, a visit to the GP ?
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It would depend on the offence. For example: arrested while on a peaceful protect vs. arrested scuffling at a football match
It's about attitude to abiding by the law and not demonstrating anger issues
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1 hour ago, JCalleja91 said:
That makes sense.. so would plugging then stop that transmission inside the ear? Maybe I'll try without plugging and see if it's any better
I don't think so, rather it's better to (a) reduce the muzzle blast and (b) wear good ear defenders with quality cuffs
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I have read that due to the hard connection between the head and the rifle stock there can be bone transmission into the inner ear. I'm not qualified to say if this is the case but it is widely reported. In my old job we were not allowed to wear earplugs in engine test beds as the noise was so intense - special large ear defenders were issued.
The worst hearing loss I've ever suffered was following a Hawkwind concert - and I wasn't near the speaker stack!
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I use Pro-shot brushes and patches and their non-brass jag as that helps in the identification of the removal of genuine copper fouling. "Wipeout Tactical Advantage" is excellent but I suppose many of the leading brands work too. Boretech copper remover works well as does KG2 bore polish (a rare treat for my barrels, not a regular thing). The right size rod and guide is a must to avoid flexing - again I prefer the Pro-shot polished stainless steel rods
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I see the NRA have forwarded MoD availability restrictions for Wales & West Midlands ranges. Ukrainian military training:
Weekend range bookings for NRA Clubs will be restricted to 24 or 12 weekends per year depending on the site. (See details below)
Location Weekends SENTA 24 Rogiet Moor 12 Whittington 12 Kingsbury 24 Swynnerton 24 Nesscliff 12 Sealand 24 Kinmel 12 Manorbier 6 Clubs should plan on the basis that these restrictions will apply throughout 2023.
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"ease springs" No problem in my opinion, a snap-cap will make you feel better though! I made one with a fired case, drilled through sideways to make it obviously a dud and filled the empty primer pocket with hard rubber compound, just enough to cushion the firing pin.
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4 hours ago, Wsm said:
Suggest when buying if its not from a member with a decent track record do a bit of digging.For example how many posts they have in different sections and are their posts there to simply up their count
Most sensible. It's what I do and I'd encourage anyone to check me out first too. It may also encourage some decent discussion content on the forum other than 'for sale' stuff.
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1 hour ago, jimbob123 said:
Hi all
Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced torque driver for fitting picatinny rails and scope mounts etc? Much of the stuff I have says max 2nm torque and I have no idea what that "feels" like.
Thanks
Jim
'Wera' tools are superb quality and used by manufacturing companies. I'd avoid buying some Chinese made shooting company branded piece of krap at an inflated price.
An example (check the range you need) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wera-Adjustable-Torque-Screwdriver-1-2-3-0/dp/B000PAR61Q/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1KDV27I70OWPJ&keywords=wera+torque+screwdriver&qid=1680359001&sprefix=Wera+tor%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-4
Zero drifting issue
in Riflescopes & NV
Posted
Well, it is good service but there's often tails of Vortex scopes needing to be repaired so I wonder if 'make them cheap and repair as required' is the business plan?