Mattnall

Bump and price drop.

Bump and price reduction.

After a clear out and having sold the rifles I have some bullets available. Speer 85gn SPBT, #1213, one box of 100 sealed. Sierra 90gn FMJ GameKings #1535, one box of 98 and I'll throw in 10 100gn SP bullets to make up for the part box. £30 per box including tracked postage.

I have two boxes (50 each) of Sierra MatchKings available. Box 1: 250gn HPBTMatch #2650 Box 2: 300gn HPBTMatch #2675 £45 per box, including 48hr postage with tracking, UK mainland. If you want a faster (and they're not on strike) let me know.

Post in the WANTED section, you might have better luck.

Not surprising, the website is a bit of a mess.

You might get more luck in the WANTED section rather than the SALES section. ETA: I guess as a new member you might not be able to see the WANTED section. Maybe posting a bit more on the general forum will open that section up, I can't remember if that is a thing on here.

I hope someone asked them why they feel the need to go against the Law and HO Guidance to the Police in this matter. FA1968s.28B refers and mentioned that if the police have at least 8 weeks to decide the renewal but cannot (or have not) then an extension is automatically given. 10.25 of the Guidance states that: "Where an application is made to the police for the renewal of a certificate at least 8 weeks before the certificate is due to expire, but the police are unable to decide the application before the certificate expires, section 28B of the 1968 Act automatically extends the validity of the certificate for a period of 8 weeks or until the police decide the application, whichever occurs first." Ask for the answer in writing and see how quickly the renewal is actioned. Let them get away with it and it becomes the norm.

As I said; "by some interpretations", which may be where English Rifleman is having issues.

How you do it will be an arrangement between you and the RFD. Costs can vary considerably but for long term storage it can be from £1 per week per item and short term is often slightly higher per week. Simply, it can be a case of you bring the firearms to the RFD and he takes them and stores them for as long as required (or whatever arrangement you come to). You can collect at any time if you can produce a valid reason to possess (FAC and/or extension of validity proof) and no one needs to be informed until you decide to dispose of the firearms. It might be prudent to inform the FLD that you have done this to save questions later but it is not required as ownership is not transferred. ETA: the RFD does not have to do this, it is down to the FAC holder to find a suitable RFD. And please get the fees arranged in advance to avoid embarrassment and shock later.

Unfortunately (by some interpretations) this is the rules for HO Approval. Paragraph Q of the Criteria For Approval in the Home Office Guidance for Approval states something similar. Also Paras O and P make if very difficult to let outsiders (unknown citizens, non-FAC holders, etc) from having a go or even attempting to join. But if you are a member of the WI that makes things easier.🤪 Take a look at Home Office Guidance, specifically Paras O-Q and Note 13.

Well said Roy, the whole thing. And this bit above is the biggest single issue in my mind. Clubs generally are so very hard to get in to for the non-shooter looking to try. I know nearly all clubs are volunteer run and require members and committee to go out of their way to help newcomers to the sport but this is not happening with any regularity, certainly around my neck of the woods. This is something I have been trying to do for a some years now and finally have been seeing results, in the last 12 months we have managed to get a good few shooters (and many ladies and youngsters) into the sport and many have their FACs and own firearms now too. From the experiences of these newcomers and the stories they tell it appears there are not many clubs out there with open doors or open minds when it comes to accepting new members. Shooters are their own worst enemies. To make the sport stronger; make it more popular.

You should get an automatic extension under section 28B of the 1968 Act, this automatically extends the validity of the certificate for a period of up to 8 weeks. However, I believe this is only if you have submitted the renewal paperwork at least 8 weeks before expiry. 4 weeks may have been OK in the past but it is a bit short notice even in normal times and may open you up to delays without the automatic extension (as it appears reading above). For some unknown reason the Government Gateway is not responding so I cannot check directly with the Act. Being away before the letter arrives is no excuse as you already have had almost 5 years notice of the expiry. The FLD do not have to send out renewal letters. If the date is fast approaching I would find some place to store your firearms in case they try to come and take them. You might be lucky and your FAC turns up in time but be safe just in case. Interestingly s28A(1) of the same act states that the 5 years validity runs from the date the FAC was granted or renewed, so check that if it is delayed - get your money's worth.

Please read all the posts, it might help. I have never advocated ignoring the manuals or ignoring any abnormal pressure signs on the fired cases or disregarding any other information available out there. I offered the Proof House testing of ammunition as a way to check your loads if you want it, not as a way to work up those loads. I'm not arguing with you, the manufacturers' loading manuals, other published data, pressure signs and any other data you can get will all help you in not only creating a really accurate and consistent round but a safe one too. Any information, however obtained will help even if it is just what not to do. Lyman (and others) offer a manual, use it or not. The web will have more info than required, use it or disregard it. Your fired cases will offer information upon inspection. The proof house offer a service, use it or not. There are many other places to find information. Your choice to use all or only some of the information available to you. As an aside: Not really possible to test the chamber pressure in your barrel at B'Ham as it needs to be pre-drilled to insert pressure transducers. A change in measuring techniques might make this an option but not at the moment.

See the last paragraph of the post you quoted. None of the figures you see quoted in manuals will have been fired in your chamber, As Laurie mentioned they will have been fired in as close to an Industry Standard chamber as they can get. Now with variations in loading/case-sizing and in chamber go/nogo sizes and non-standard reamers it makes all this a try-it-and-see exercise but having some relevant data to start with is a good thing - the rounds tested will be fired in a close approximation to a standard chamber as are the loads tested in the manuals so it will help you plan accordingly with your loading process and then safely test them in your chamber if you think they are safe to do so.

I like these posts Laurie; informative, concise and easy to understand. Thank you. With regard to this last part The Proof House can test small batches of ammunition and encourage home loaders to send in a few test lots for evaluation. Sending in a selection of loads for a cartridge with various charges around the ones quoted in the books that you want to try will show if your recipe is in the ballpark. I guess it won't show what would happen in your chamber with the same components but neither will anything else other than trying them. In the end nothing is guaranteed and only carefully looking for pressure signs may tell the tale to come.

'Once fired brass', is a bit like car dealers saying 'careful lady owner', you'll never really know for sure. Depending upon the cartridge size and maker it could make a big difference or not matter at all. Straight-walled pistol brass will last for more firings than I have made so far. S&B .303 brass, for instance, is notorious for failing after the first reload, 100% in the few I tried before before someone wisened me up.🤨 Buyer should consider brass either 'new' or 'used' and hand over the cash with that in mind.

🤔 What's the torch for?

The question should be: why there when no one else needs it?

I've rebarrelled a few over the years. The early ones had M16 barrels (yes, with the gas port). Not too many were made I believe and someone was trying to collect a list of where as many as possible were. They use the AR15 bolt pinned to the bolt carrier with a roll pin which the firing pin passes through (how many times can you get the word 'pin' into one sentence?). At one PR match I saw someone shooting a CAM where the roll pin had slipped and held the firing pin in the 'fired' position and when the next round was chambered....🤕

No one can prove if a run-in/break-in procedure will make it last longer, clean easier or even shoot better. One barrel maker in the states I spoke to said, "shoot it until your finger bleeds then shoot some more and put it away". What will make it shoot worse is lying on the firing point wondering if you did the correct break-in procedure or not when you should be wondering about the marksmanship principles. In other words do what you think is right, whatever that is.

Published recipes vary from 1:10 to 1:25 mix. I can buy Lanolin in 118ml bottles and alcohol in 5lt tubs - two of lanolin and one of alcohol gets a mix of 1:21, never had a sticky one yet and no need to measure if I just mix them all together. 😉

Interested in the M1-22, does it have the uprated operating rod?

Don't even bother the certification department with this, they don't need to know your gun broke or that it is getting fixed, no numbers will change. It shouldn't need to be proofed either. The new law states that upper and lowers on new build rifles much be serialised (and other bits too) but as this is a repair it won't matter and you current upper isn't serialised anyway. SGC has numbered some of their uppers in the past (the number is on the inside mating surface so not seen from the outside) and since about the date we left the EU we have had to serialise bolts, carriers, uppers, lowers and barrels - doesn't have to be the same number across the set but that often helps. It's why the FAC Table1 has a much bigger box now for the description of the firearm and components.

It does, and it can be wiped off but I find it easier to size and trim and then wet ss tumble to clean and it does the wiping off for me. 😊