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reloading book


Mark Jones

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Can anyone reccomend an instruction book for novice/intermediate loading techniques. Dont need load ammounts as use manufacturers web pages but after proceedures, all types explained,

 

Many thanks

Mark

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Mark,

 

you'll find most reloading manuals have a section in the front covering the different steps and techniques and will take you through the process step by step. Modern Reloading 2nd edition by Richard Lee was the first I used and found it very good but have also the 8th and 9th editions from Hornady, The Reloading manual from Speer and the excellent Berger Bullets Reloading manual. Choose any one and you won't go wrong. Also if you can find an experienced reloader in your locale to show you the process i'd recommend that.

 

A couple of tips to get you started. Record everything that you do and be methodical in your approach.

Be extremely careful not to mix up powders.

Don't assume others reloading data is safe in your rifle - work up your own loads.

 

There is a wealth of very experienced reloaders on the forum. If you have any doubts then ask, I'm sure someone here will have an answer or point you in the right direction.

 

Good luck!

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A book is fine......IF you grasp what it is describing beyond ANY doubt.

 

When it gets down to setting headspace , cartridge oal etc you are well advised to get an experienced reloader to show you how to measure, what is safe/not safe (and WHY)....plus what tools and gauges you should use to keep you safe.

 

Or take a reloading course.

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A book is fine......IF you grasp what it is describing beyond ANY doubt.

When it gets down to setting headspace , cartridge oal etc you are well advised to get an experienced reloader to show you how to measure, what is safe/not safe (and WHY)....plus what tools and gauges you should use to keep you safe.

Or take a reloading course.

Your so close I'd have to twist your arm!

 

Have already done a bit but really like to understand each step and not just "that will do" as my mate showed me

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A book is fine......IF you grasp what it is describing beyond ANY doubt.

 

When it gets down to setting headspace , cartridge oal etc you are well advised to get an experienced reloader to show you how to measure, what is safe/not safe (and WHY)....plus what tools and gauges you should use to keep you safe.

 

Or take a reloading course.

Why are you adding this to the mix?? If a person can read English and comprehend what they are reading, they can learn to reload safely from a book. It's really pretty darned simple if instructions are strictly adhered to. That's that's how millions of shooters learned.

 

Additionally: How would a Novice know that what he was being shown by an 'experienced' reloader is safe?? I've been reloading for over 40 years but does that automatically mean I am 'safe'? Maybe. Maybe not.~Andrew

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Why are you adding this to the mix?? If a person can read English and comprehend what they are reading, they can learn to reload safely from a book. It's really pretty darned simple if instructions are strictly adhered to. That's that's how millions of shooters learned.

 

Additionally: How would a Novice know that what he was being shown by an 'experienced' reloader is safe?? I've been reloading for over 40 years but does that automatically mean I am 'safe'? Maybe. Maybe not.~Andrew

 

got to be honest i'm a visual hands on learner.wish i had someone to show me when i started .would have saved time and money.

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Why are you adding this to the mix?? If a person can read English and comprehend what they are reading, they can learn to reload safely from a book. It's really pretty darned simple if instructions are strictly adhered to. That's that's how millions of shooters learned.

 

Additionally: How would a Novice know that what he was being shown by an 'experienced' reloader is safe?? I've been reloading for over 40 years but does that automatically mean I am 'safe'? Maybe. Maybe not.~Andrew

Eveyone has a right to an opinion......would you have learned to drive just by reading or does instruction help?

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And if something doesn't quite make sense, or if you're not sure about anything......... don't hesitate to ask about it.

 

Sounds obvious, but It's better to feel a bit daft sometimes than risk hurting yourself or anyone around you.

 

Lots of helpful people on here with a ton of experience and knowledge.

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I'm with Andrew on this one. I can show someone very close to me how to do something and it's forgotten equally as quickly. Tell that person to read the manual, and if he/she does, it ain't forgotten.

I respect that everyone is different but the way I used to study (and still do) is to speed read the subject, re-read it and write down key points. Just doing that drives it home.

The manuals Mark has ordered are top notch. Use those in conjunction with post-its and all will be well.

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First silly question. I'm going to do a ladder test for a new load. Do I length to saami length then shoot different charge weights or do I measure a round in my chamber and back off? If so how much?

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This is a bit like "how long is a piece of string." I usually measure chamber size, then make rounds at 15 thou off the lands. Once I've got the best group at the optimum charge weight (OCW) at the approximate velocities I need I'll start playing with seating depth. But that's the way I do it and it works for me. Others may do it differently .

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This is a bit like "how long is a piece of string." I usually measure chamber size, then make rounds at 15 thou off the lands. Once I've got the best group at the optimum charge weight (OCW) at the approximate velocities I need I'll start playing with seating depth. But that's the way I do it and it works for me. Others may do it differently .

Thanks for the advice

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You're loading for .223?

 

Just the way I start off:

 

Load to Sammi spec case length with lowest powder charge weight (or thereabouts) given in manual and, also bullet seated at recommended depth for your choice of bullet (also from manual)...Increase powder charge by .3g and note each bullets' point of impact until you shoot a group which you are happy with (relatively tight) ..

 

So for a general, simplistic example:

 

4 rounds of starting load = 20g powder with bullet seated at 2.250 OAL ..shoot at a target and check for group size

4 rounds of 20.3g powder with bullet seated at 2.250 OAL....shoot at different target and check for group size

4 rounds of 20.6g powder with bullet seated at 2.250 OAL...shoot at another different target and check that group size

 

and so on.................

 

So......... 8 target spots x (multiplied) by 4 rounds each of incremental charge-weights = (equals)......... 32 rounds to test fire for best group size

 

Then I will take the best 2 group sizes and load them again and shoot those loads again on another day. Check again and see if groups are pretty much as good as when you fired them on you initial test

 

As soon as I believe I got a decent and consistently accurate load I'll only then play around with seating depth (if I need to) ..from there it can continue on to a host of other things to test; but don't go there just yet

 

I was always told to "keep it simple"...That's just one way to start you off but there are quite a few other ways too - each to their own and whether it be the right way or the wrong way that's the way I do it and, it works for me

 

(and when you find out that you don't have a good group, you do it all over again with a different combo) :( Arrghhhhhhhhh!!!!

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I have found the Lyman manual to be one of the better basic manuals for beginners. The Speer and Sierra manuals are better for someone with a little experience but would also be good for a beginner. Of course there is a wealth of information on the net.

 

I started with a Lyman manual in 1974 and I still pull it out occasionally. So when ever they offer a new addition I usually buy one. I use a lot of Speer bullets and Hornaday bullets because they were always readily available in this part of the US. So over the years I have used the Speer manual as my go-to. I've never cared for the Hornaday manual but not for very good reasons . A few years ago I got a Sierra manual and it is really laid out well for someone with a lot of experience.

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