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.17 Rem Fireball


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How do you form them Ian?

I know for a fact that 17 Squirrels method does not always work and is dependant on chamber dimensions he is lucky it worked for him.

I use a dedicated Redding .221 Fireball to 17 Fireball form die set and then FL size with a 17 Fireball FL sizing die,it will work every time for factory chambers, however i have a custom barrel with minimum headspace chamber so i had to wind the 17 Fireball FL size die down another 1/4 turn in order to bump the shoulder a couple of thou before they would chamber.

 

Ian.

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I know for a fact that 17 Squirrels method does not always work and is dependant on chamber dimensions he is lucky it worked for him.

I use a dedicated Redding .221 Fireball to 17 Fireball form die set and then FL size with a 17 Fireball FL sizing die,it will work every time for factory chambers, however i have a custom barrel with minimum headspace chamber so i had to wind the 17 Fireball FL size die down another 1/4 turn in order to bump the shoulder a couple of thou before they would chamber.

 

Ian.

Cheers Ian, sounds easy enough with the right tools for the job!

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Why is it hard to form 221 brass into .17? Does it crumple or kink? I have had no bother forming .20 vartarg from 221, just straight through the sizing die and job done. I'd seriously consider the vartarg, it has a bit more bullet weight for foxes and is still good for crows etc. I found Nosler 221 brass online in the us no problem BTW.

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Tom, nice you have not had any problems with 221 to 20.

In general,sizing down forces brass into configurations it was not in before,by manufacturing design.

It has to go somewhere.

 

(.221-.200) is a neck reducton of .021 but (.221-.172) is a reduction of .049,which is over twice as much.There is more pssibility of some malformed brass resulting.

Sometimes it is better to take it down in stages eg .221 to .200 then to .172

 

Needs more-perhaps specialty dies,of course.

 

For the shooter who wants readily available factory ammo,this is not an option-even if 221 brass were available easily.

The 17 Rem is also available as loaded ammo,and fairly popular (as is the classic 22/250,though that exceeds the 223 in all aspects).

But 204 Ruger is generally available off the shelf,,and is ballistically superior to the other intermediate cartridges considered...its as good as the 22/250,but less powerful-not that energy will be an issue for stated use.

 

I'm not at all agin' wildcats-but try asking for 30BR ammo in a shop..for example.

Most have never heard of it,let alone 308x11/2 Barnes (usually almost identical)...but easy enough to form from BR brass (preferably 7BR rather than 6BR-see above,in reverse).

Nice intermediate cartridge,does fox too(125@2650) but 204,223and 222 are just easier all round.

 

The vartag-heck,lets add in the turbo version too,have a place,but not for the original OP's criteria.

BUt these somewhat niche cartridges can be very effective used sensibly,and above all are very satisfying to shoot (for a variety of reasons-excluding absolute performance,whenit's not appropriate/needed).

 

Shoot and enjoy!

 

gbal

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I'm having a .17 fireball built at the moment. I popped in to one of my local gunshops and mentioned .17 fireball rounds, he had 200 on the shelf so I took 100, once fired I will re-load them.

Looking forward to using it.

Steve.

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I'm having a .17 fireball built at the moment. I popped in to one of my local gunshops and mentioned .17 fireball rounds, he had 200 on the shelf so I took 100, once fired I will re-load them.

Looking forward to using it.

Steve.

I would of bought the lot, may save you a lot of hassle, saying that I'm sure some of my original cases have been loaded a dozen times and still going strong.

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Your being to butch with it Ian. I first used my method many moons ago when i had a 17 mach IV Slightly different chamber i know but it worked every time.

I brought my RPA in 2005 i think, it was 17 Remington then, had it rebarreed in fireball with a min spec reamer about 2008/9.

Have made my own cases from the start. Works for me every time even with a min spec chamber. If i was clever enough i would i would post a video. At the fat end of £100 for form dies, i would prefer to buy an extra couple of hundred cases.

Don

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I would of bought the lot, may save you a lot of hassle, saying that I'm sure some of my original cases have been loaded a dozen times and still going strong.

Me too, I've had mine for a couple of years now, never seen a box of factory rounds. We're they accutip or hp.

I've just ordered some cases, so I'll try forming a couple of cases prior to purchasing form dies and see what happens.Mine has a pacnor tube.

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Me too, I've had mine for a couple of years now, never seen a box of factory rounds. We're they accutip or hp.

I've just ordered some cases, so I'll try forming a couple of cases prior to purchasing form dies and see what happens.Mine has a pacnor tube.

Rem accu tip 20gr. Just hope they re-load OK

S.S.

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Just to see what would happen i tried a 221 case straight into the 17 Fireball and it telescoped the neck down into the shoulder area.

 

Ian.

With a brand new box of lapua .221, I though I'd give it a go too. Nope buckles the case, even when taken very slowly, perhaps prior neck turning might work. :(, But as I'm not set up for .22cal neck turning, its time to order a set of form dies.

 

https://img2.brain3.photobox.com/990625037b461a44a8df1e9728f08d68897d37f4ee68d5fd5241c55e41f94489a0aea0db.jpg

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With a brand new box of lapua .221, I though I'd give it a go too. Nope buckles the case, even when taken very slowly, perhaps prior neck turning might work. :(, But as I'm not set up for .22cal neck turning, its time to order a set of form dies.

 

https://img2.brain3.photobox.com/990625037b461a44a8df1e9728f08d68897d37f4ee68d5fd5241c55e41f94489a0aea0db.jpg

F*** me you did six stillair i only did one!!!

 

Ian.

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Yep first one was a normal speed through the dies, then slower as you see them left right.Last one took about 5mins, a smidge at a time. It looks to me like there is too much brass in the shoulder area which is tougher than the body of the brass below hence the crumpling when put through the fl die.

I'm a slow Learner Ian, 94 left!

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Stillair you said your not set up for .22 neck turning are you for .17

Yes I'm good to go with .17 and .20 cal. I did consider turning in between dies, but it looks like the brass has flowed to the edge of the shoulder with the seating die.

Being a novice here, I could be talking tosh though.

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