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Buffer Spring Strength in a Handcocking AR - How low can you go?


brown dog

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Watching people using sidecocking ARs:

 

Some seem to flick the cocking handle with the ease and lack of disruption of someone using a biathlon rifle.

 

Others have to give the thing a hefty pull and heavily disrupt the rifle.

 

I'm thinking that the path to greatness with a handcocker is fitting the weakest buffer spring available that'll still shut the action.

 

Any thoughts / suggestions?

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My .223 wylde using ggg ammo i can use 2 fingers without my thumb leaving the pistol grip.

I have just replaced the buffer and spring on my Grendel as it would sometimes not fully return to battery causing a misfire.

I watched that video last week and its very interesting . I bought an 'uprated' spring which was an inch longer and had 3 extra coils which I'm hoping will give it a bit of extra shove , especially with a full mag , to engage the lugs fully.

Andy

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Its all down to the chamber length and correct polishing Matt...nothing to do with buffer spring power. All that needs to be strong enough for , is to push the next round into the chamber and turn the lugs fully into battery.

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Its all down to the chamber length and correct polishing Matt...nothing to do with buffer spring power. All that needs to be strong enough for , is to push the next round into the chamber and turn the lugs fully into battery.

 

That was sort of where my thinking was going - but, all other things being equal, a 10lb spring will be a bigger pull on the handle than a 5lb spring (twice as hard I think :rolleyes::lol: ); so, if the 5lb will put the bolt back in battery; why fit a 10lb?

As it's not having to cycle as a semi auto, the softest possible spring must help make the gat 'nicer' to operate?

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Yes, all true.

 

The first thing to do though, before you start shortening [ I know you :D ] is to make sure you know how the gun will be shot. A rifle shot off a bipod all its days will work with a softer spring than one shot off a 30 round magazine, as the bolt will undoubtedly experience some drag over the feed lips of SOME magazines.

 

A happy medium is what is required, and a standard spring usually is just that.

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The first thing to do though, before you start shortening [ I know you :D ]

 

:lol::lol:

 

Got it :)

 

Run-in, plus 'just right'.

But you're right, I can't help myself; :rolleyes::lol: I'll get a $10 spring triple pack and have a play :rolleyes:

 

What lube are you putting on the bolt?

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Drop of oil, doesn't really need much more. I would not recommend messing about with the buffer spring, however, my ARs run with these:

 

JP Silent Captured Spring

 

They are also available with alternative spring weights.

 

The main reason I use them is I don't like the spring rattle you get with a normal buffer and spring combination.

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Yes, all true.

 

The first thing to do though, before you start shortening [ I know you :D ] is to make sure you know how the gun will be shot. A rifle shot off a bipod all its days will work with a softer spring than one shot off a 30 round magazine, as the bolt will undoubtedly experience some drag over the feed lips of SOME magazines.

 

A happy medium is what is required, and a standard spring usually is just that.

As Dave says, the spring is there for a reason and shortening it can cause feed problems, mainly the round coming half out of the magazine but then stopping and the bolt hitting the case just below the neck.

In a semi version of the AR the bolt/buffer retract fully at some speed and the buffer will bounce off the end of the buffer-tube and help the spring throw the bolt forward. In the straight-pull the bolt is pulled back with much less force and it comes forward with much less energy. If this is reduced further by a weaker spring then it mat struggle to remove the next round fully from the magazine, especially if the carrier is also slowed slightly be dragging over the feed-lips, or a stiff mag spring if it is near to fully loaded, or if the bolt is 'ridden' forward even for only the start of its travel.

 

The main reason you are seeing some extract the fired cases easily is most likely the chamber dimension and/or chamber temperature especially after a rapid string of shots.

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What a load of b-ollocks

When the spring and carrier fully retract they are under the same poundage at their dead stop no matter how fast or slow they travel.

When they get to the end of their cycle they come to a dead stop, then have to accelerate in the other direction from that dead stop.

They don't pick up extra speed and energy from bounce.

 

 

 

If your bolt is dragging on your feed lips, I suggest you send the gun to me to rectify that rather bizarre issue

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