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NF NXS CH-3 Reticule


Big Al

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to be honest i am not into long range , but i am sure you be better with a ret with makings that you can use, mil dot or moa, it would be easyer for hold over and such like...

 

tony

 

I would rather dial than hold over Tony so the lack of markings/dots isnt a concern for me, Ive tried this style reticule on the Fox scope I bought and it was fine for my needs with the red dot showing up nicely under my red LED lamp. My concern with the NF ret is that the center dot appears to be smaller and even more precise than the Fox one so wondered if anyone was using it for varminting and lamping?

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ah got you, so its a NF your after now, i really thought you was going to go for the one of the vortex range... well i hope someone clears this up for you al...

 

atb

Tony

 

Ive been offered a second hand NF NXS 5.5-22x56, Im just unsure about the size of the dot/ret and would prefer to hear some opinions. The forum member has very kindly offered to send it down on approval as we have some mutual friends but I dont want to waste anyones time if its way off the mark.

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Hi Big Al,,,,,,,,,,,CH3 dot is .125[1/8moa] at 22x,,,,ok for seated benchwork etc but personal opinion is that it might be too small.I sometimes loose the smaller dot in my NXS 2DD which is .09 at 22x,,,,,,,,,,,,CH3 is only a tad bigger.

 

The main dot in a NXS 2DD reticule is favoured and very popular at .1875 at 22x ,,,don,t loose sight of that one.You may like the smaller dot? but get the price down as much as possible as this reticule is not"generally" popular,,,,no offence to seller or owners just my opinion,,,,,,regds ,,,O

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I have used the CH-3 for years and imho is by far the best ret for foxes and for that matter F Class . Long range field use is a different thing as a high percentage of shots on small targets out past 1000 yards etc will result in a miss so feed back as to ' by how much ' is essential and the CH-3 would not be the best at that .

To be able to select a very exact aiming point is what you get with this ret almost as though your looking through a spotting scope with no busy ret and then you pull the illumination and the tiny dot is all you see .... perfect for me guys .

I have had both 2DD's and CH-3's and they both work great on foxes etc but for me the CH-3 is just better .

 

OSOK

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I have a ch3 reticle on my f class rifle and it's great for long range. Whether it's too small for YOUR needs really depends on your eye sight and your backdrop (paper is no problem but the bottom of a hedge might be).

 

At night I think it'll be fine- the illuminated dot is bright and actually illuminates part of the crosshair too.

 

I'd suggest that you try before you buy- I was torn between ch3 and np2dd- I'm sure that either would be great but for field use I'd probably give the edge to the np2dd due to the larger main dot.

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I have used the CH-3 for years and imho is by far the best ret for foxes and for that matter F Class . Long range field use is a different thing as a high percentage of shots on small targets out past 1000 yards etc will result in a miss so feed back as to ' by how much ' is essential and the CH-3 would not be the best at that .

To be able to select a very exact aiming point is what you get with this ret almost as though your looking through a spotting scope with no busy ret and then you pull the illumination and the tiny dot is all you see .... perfect for me guys .

I have had both 2DD's and CH-3's and they both work great on foxes etc but for me the CH-3 is just better .

 

OSOK

 

To be honest I cannot see this rifle being used on anything live at much more than 300-350yds. I see what your saying about measuring the miss on the reticule and adjusting for it on the next shot but would that be such a problem at 1/3rd of the distance you mention?

 

Of course trying first is the obvious option and it looks like I can do that but as this is my first long range varminting/foxing scope I would like as many opinions as to the pro's and con's of this reticules as possible, there will surely be things I havent thought about.

 

Thank you to everyone so far for their thoughts. :)

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I would rather dial than hold over Tony so the lack of markings/dots isnt a concern for me, Ive tried this style reticule on the Fox scope I bought and it was fine for my needs with the red dot showing up nicely under my red LED lamp. My concern with the NF ret is that the center dot appears to be smaller and even more precise than the Fox one so wondered if anyone was using it for varminting and lamping?

Dialling is the way ! using drop lines might be easier as mentioned but add incline or decline and a shot at distance that you have to aim " about " that far between the lines is not good enough in my eyes - theres just a little bit too much guesswork involved . I bet most longer range shooters dial - both elevation and windage including elevation for cosine effect . atb tim

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Thanks for the suggestions so far guys.

 

The scope will arrive tomorrow and I have the option to return it for a refund if the reticule isnt suitable. The seller and I share a mutual friend and he has been kind enough to take only half the money before posting it. Once I can look through it in daylight and then darkness under the lamp the questions I have should be answered one way or the other.

 

My only concern then is if that CH-3 reticule is less desireable to others than it would be to me and I would have to take a hit if I came to sell it. The scope is 14 months old, in as new condition and the asking price is £1050.

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Dialling is the way ! using drop lines might be easier as mentioned but add incline or decline and a shot at distance that you have to aim " about " that far between the lines is not good enough in my eyes - theres just a little bit too much guesswork involved . I bet most longer range shooters dial - both elevation and windage including elevation for cosine effect . atb tim

 

I shoot a lot of reactive targets at 1000 yards plus - I always dial the elevation but after setting a base windage I will use the reticle to aid with windage calls as its such a dynamic and sensitive aspect. However at extended range even with rangefinders and ballistic calculators elevation can still be off. You can use a reticle to correct fall of shot by spotting hits and adjusting accordingly.

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Al , I think that if it's desirable to you then you won't want to sell it and at that price i can't see you taking a hit .

The CH-3 works great on foxes and is great for holding around the V or 5 in F Class as at 42x you have 0.54 moa or 0.72 moa at 32x dot to line . Whilst i'm a big fan of this ret it wouldn't be my first choice for long range field work , MOAR , MOAR T or R1 ladder would be better imho . ( Not the R2 )

A good ret that suits your needs is essential for long range field shooting , not for hold over but for when you miss and knowing how or why it missed .

On a final point , I now need specs for reading :huh: but i can see the CH-3 against dark hedge rows in the daytime and a night when illuminated there are no busy lines and the dot is clear so i'm amazed when people say it's too fine , maybe one persons ' too fine ' is another's ' more precise ' :D

 

OSOK

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Well at least we,ve tempted you up to considering a NF and when you handle it you will definately appreciate its construction.Good SH NF,s make an excellent buy someone else has taken the big hit,,,you wont for certain. Hope its to your liking and look forward to knowing your decision?,,,,,O

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Al , I think that if it's desirable to you then you won't want to sell it and at that price i can't see you taking a hit .

The CH-3 works great on foxes and is great for holding around the V or 5 in F Class as at 42x you have 0.54 moa or 0.72 moa at 32x dot to line . Whilst i'm a big fan of this ret it wouldn't be my first choice for long range field work , MOAR , MOAR T or R1 ladder would be better imho . ( Not the R2 )

A good ret that suits your needs is essential for long range field shooting , not for hold over but for when you miss and knowing how or why it missed .

On a final point , I now need specs for reading :huh: but i can see the CH-3 against dark hedge rows in the daytime and a night when illuminated there are no busy lines and the dot is clear so i'm amazed when people say it's too fine , maybe one persons ' too fine ' is another's ' more precise ' :D

 

OSOK

Im in the the same boat as Al. I shoot targets / crows to 600m and have seen a few NF's with NP R2 ret for sale recently, why do you not like the R2? I have only looked through a 8x32 NF with np2dd and it was ok but I would prefer the hash marks to be able to accurately adjust.

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Go with the R1 or MOAR as the R2 ladder has 5 moa hash marks on the windage , so you would have to guess the correction between 0 & 5 moa and i can't imagine anyone missing by 5 moa on a wind call ? :unsure:

 

OSOK

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I understand from BigAl that he is shooting an accurate Tikka in 223,and does not intend to shoot small varmints further than 300-350y. Some of the points raised have rather lost clear sight on that,I think.I have several NFs,and each reticule has advantages-dependent on the application.

 

Seeing bullet splash and correcting at 300 could be done either by small holdover,or small turret adjust-as by preference or time opportunity-crows fly away.With a 200 y zero,drop at 300 is about 6" only (bullet dependent) so it's unlikely the drop error will be much more than 2",dependent on measuring skill.Likewise,bullet drift is going to be in the region of 12" (10mph wind) so even a 25% wind error means only a 3" 'miss' from desired POI. I think eg even the 5 moa windage on an R2 reticule would be well good enough-though I'd prefer 2moa,indeed 1moa at such relatively shortranges-as the wind will not be absolutely constant shot to shot.NF class scopes may well be "reticuled" more for longer range shots.

 

 

 

All this assumes that a missed shot splash can be seen-good luck with that in waving grass etc.

 

So,while I tend to agree with the points made-in general.and always allowing for individual eyesight and preferences-I am not so sure these points really hold for Big Al's application.They begin to bite as distance increases,but where we are in +/- 2" error territory,much the same holds for reticule fine differences as for cartridge- within the generally accepted limits,there really is very little effective field use difference,compared to shooter preference (maybe skill)...a very,very hot 6mm does not really reduce the above 300y drop/drift more than an inch or so...and we are really dealing with the error in assessing both of those- so more like 3",which is a pretty close shave ,even for a crow....

 

But you do have to see the reticule !

 

Gbal

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Thanks for everyones contribution to this thread, unfortunately the CH-3 reticule is too fine for my eyes and too difficult to pick up quicly. :(

 

I would like to thanks Barry aka v-max for making this a sensible transaction, had I just paid in full without trying this scope I would now be sitting on something that for me would be not right and then faced with the prospect of moving it on. Then again without the option to return it I probably would not have taken the plunge.

 

A frustrating business this when you cannot easily view high end gear in my area.

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Thanks OH, the DD dot is 50% bigger than the CH-3 and I can now relate much better to what I would need. That is 3/16 MOA compared to the 1/8 MOA of the CH-3, I even think 1/4MOA would be fine for my needs.

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Thanks OH, the DD dot is 50% bigger than the CH-3 and I can now relate much better to what I would need. That is 3/16 MOA compared to the 1/8 MOA of the CH-3, I even think 1/4MOA would be fine for my needs.

 

Good to know I have been of some help,,,,,,,,,,,,1/4 dot,,,,nooooooh!!?? regds ,,,Onehole.

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