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my remington 700 .243 is going in for a full over hall that will include

 

mcmillian a5 adjustable stock

blueprinted action and bolt

ejector upgrade (not sure what to get thou } ???

1-8 twist s/s varmint bergara barrel recommend to me bye my rifle smith ? to suit my preferred 70gr load and maybe 105gr amax for some long range stuff

bolt body fluted

t8 reflex m18x1 thread

action and barrel painted in ceracoat

 

what are your thoughts on this before i go ahead ??

and should i change anything ?

 

thanks again

 

 

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Personally, I'm a bit of a non-believer in the concept of 'action blueprinting' - it's just the thing that holds the barrel.

 

Have you compared the cost of 'blueprint' + bolt flute + ejector upgrade to the cost of simply buying an off-the shelf 700 clone?

 

The other major disadvantage of 'upgrading' a rem, is that when you come to sell it, it will only have the value of a s/h rem - regardless of what's been done to it as, for reasons I don't understand, we seem to define our rifles by the make of the action.

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Not sure that I buy in to the concept of 'action blueprinting' - it's just the thing that holds the barrel.

 

Have you compared the cost of 'blueprint' + bolt flute + ejector upgrade to the cost of simply buying an off-the shelf 700 clone?

 

The other major disadvantage of 'upgrading' a rem, is that when you come to sell it, it will only have the value of a s/h rem - regardless of what's been done to it as, for reasons I don't understand, we seem to define our rifles by the make of the action.

+1 on that one-i got bitten one the harris with a so-called blue printed remmy in .223 a number of years back before i knew what was what.-After the cost of the "work" and bedding- the rifle did shoot better but not on the level of a custom build.when i came to sell it 18 months later i got back less then the cost of the original factory rifle.

i was warned beforehand by several more experienced shooters not to bother ,but save up for a custom action or build - but being young and dumb i thought i knew better!

i would save the money a get a custom action/build -you only cry once.

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my remington 700 .243 is going in for a full over hall that will include

 

mcmillian a5 adjustable stock

blueprinted action and bolt

ejector upgrade (not sure what to get thou } ???

1-8 twist s/s varmint bergara barrel recommend to me bye my rifle smith ? to suit my preferred 70gr load and maybe 105gr amax for some long range stuff

bolt body fluted

t8 reflex m18x1 thread

action and barrel painted in ceracoat

 

what are your thoughts on this before i go ahead ??

and should i change anything ?

 

thanks again

 

 

Agree with some others on this one,,,,,,No more T8,s for me,,,quiet but ugly and will ding up your new barrel!!,,,not so sure a blue print strictly necessary the new barrel and a good smithy should be enough.Paint?well yeah if thats your thing,,,prefer a vapour/bead blast,,,,,,get it chambered for the heavies,,,243 is a powerhouse don,t waste it shooting lightweight stingers,,,,,243 aint got a huge neck to play with and you may well be loading into the shoulder or hanging out on the lights if you compromise. Fluted bolt and tactical knob,,,yep,,,,,,,,Invisible thread protector and ask smithy to make one that actually protects the crown as well ie semi enclosed muzzle end,,,well I know what I mean,,,,regds ,,,O

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Ditto on previous suggestions comments

 

Work out exactly what you want the rifle to do for you, it is a tool, an expensive tool.

 

Not sure on the Bergara barrel? Personally never used one or know anyone who has, the barrel is pretty critical so make sure its right.

 

1:8 should work up to 115g DTAC's for range work and turns the .243 into a good round out to 1000yards.

 

Any rifle you have custom built should be right and exactly how you want it, must be a pleasure to own and shoot, it's your taxed beer tokens that are paying for it.

 

Terry

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Interesting comments on the value of blueprinting. It probably only makes sense if you already have a Remington action.

 

But how important to accuracy is it to have both lugs bearing properly during lock-up?

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My rifle is now 15 years old and it used to produce these result standard a 5 shot groups at 100yds with my home loads

Barrel is now on its way out .

I like the rifle so want to keep it that's why the rebuild

Should my above rebuild set up produce the same results or better is what I am asking ??

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Photo will not upload but it 5 shots that can get covered with a. 5 pence coin

 

If it shoots/shot like that, there is nothing wrong with the action; you will be throwing money away with a 'blueprint'.

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Remmy,there is a lot of good advice in the posts already.Bd makes the good point that if this factory rifle shot regular/typical 5 shots in 5 p piece-ie (.75-.243) it's a sub .4 moa rifle- it's unlikely that a blue print will improve that much.The action and bolt must already be pretty good.Fluting the bolt is pure bling,and won't improve performance.Ditto paint/ceracoat etc. Getting a (sako) ejector won't improve accuracy either-have you had ejection problems?-if not,it don't need fixed!

Moderator is open to choice- T8 are probably not the best option,compared to say a North Star or One Less Charlie custom,both much used/recommended.Good idea to keep 70 short varmint,and 105 heavier long range options open-243 is much transformed with heavies(though really needs 1 in 7 for the 115 DTAc bullets-105 will give you some taste of Long range,though).

Stock-McMillan are good,but hardly cheap-if your current stock is uncomfortable-even with a moderator,which will much reduce recoil/muzzle jump,)then perhaps...

Bergara barrels are OK,but I'd put a top grade barrel as the absolutepriority -the rifle seems very sound,best chance of improving it's accuracy is with a premium barrel-Krieger,Bartlein for example-the cost won't be much more for such a blank-£200 maybe-and fitting costs will be the same.When it wears out ,you haven't lost much compared to a cheaper barrel which will wear out just the same,but will not have had lesser accuracy,quite likely a bit more.Top priority for me,if you want as good performance.

You have probably pondered this;look at the suggestions-sort out the real performance factors,in the light of what the rifle has done,and what that tells you about it's components;sort out separately the 'bling' bits-I can't say don't get them,but see them for what they are-not relevant to performance.You might consider bedding the action-that nearly always helps,but remember that there isn't a lot of room for improvement in an already sub .4 moa rifle.

I'd fit an appropriate Krieger/Broughton and see how she goes (in bed,if you like) but everything else is likely to be secondary,in this rifle,and can be done afterwards,if you feel you must.Maximum probability of satisfaction,minimal risk/loss,esp as you are going to rebarrel anyhow.

 

Gbal

ps:last time I did a cost/effective analysis,each .1 group improvement was about£1K (assuming a .5 start),and it isn't guaranteed.Or an investment,in a factory rifle.Do you really need it? Pleasure etc isn't readily measurable,of course,so it's ultimately your call.

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I have a friend with a 1in8 twist Bergara barrel. It's chambered for shooting the 105 gn bullets. It won't shoot 105 Amax or Berger vlds for toffee and they are starting to tumble at 100yds. Shoots standard factory fiochi 95gn (which I think are 95gn sst's)into 1/2" groups. We used them to check the barrel.

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lot of sense being said above.i have two rem semi custom rifles neither blueptinted both shoot very well,when i thought about trading one in was offered £400.my last build i went for one of daves actions as it worked out about the same as a reworked rem or tikka

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