527vamint Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Ok I am fairly new to new to reloading just wondered what order do you case prep and clean ready for reloading. At the moment I am using once fired factory brass of various types,just to get the feel of things. with the fresh fired brass I 1.remove primer with a adapted die for sole primer removal. 2.clean primer pocket with the lee pocket tool. 3.chamfer-debur inner and outer neck with rcbs chamfer tool. 4.clean cases in a ultrasonic cleaner the aldi one with hot water and washing up liquid. Tried janitol (citric acid) seams a bit too good. 5.dry on a radiator upside down. 6.blow the dry case out with air duster. 7.case lube cases outer and inside the neck. 8.full length size. 9.wipe cases clean with a rag. 10.measure cases. 11.prime cases using rcbs hand primer. 12.measure powder and put in the case. 13.seat bullet head and measure oal. If you have a better way could you put me straight before I get carried away.I think I have a mild form of ocd and quite like doing things in order. Many thanks in advance Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcampbellsmith Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Spooky, pretty similar to what I do. However, step 0, clean necks and inspect the fired cases as I put them in a box with the number of firings noted. 2a, uniform primer pocket. 2b. uniform flash hole. 3 I do as 8b, where 8a is trim to length (if required). 9. I clean again with the ultrasonic cleaner. 9a. I sort the cases by weight and put them away for loading at a later date. In summary, store fired cases by vintage. Clean cases, resize cases, clean them again and store them. Reload them at a later date. Fire them and start again. Finally, I write it all down, so if I screw up, someone might be able to work out what I did wrong. Regards JCS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
527vamint Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Spooky, pretty similar to what I do. However, step 0, clean necks and inspect the fired cases as I put them in a box with the number of firings noted. 2a, uniform primer pocket. 2b. uniform flash hole. 3 I do as 8b, where 8a is trim to length (if required). 9. I clean again with the ultrasonic cleaner. 9a. I sort the cases by weight and put them away for loading at a later date. In summary, store fired cases by vintage. Clean cases, resize cases, clean them again and store them. Reload them at a later date. Fire them and start again. Finally, I write it all down, so if I screw up, someone might be able to work out what I did wrong. Regards JCS Ok thanks,I do inspect the cases,forgot to put it down. I am still picking bits up the primer pocket and flash hole uniformers are on my list. I wondered about cleaning again after sizing as the lube seam to tarnish the cases a little. Still on my first batches of loads as I am finding which is best,but everything is logged and recorded. Thanks for your time andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orka Akinse Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Reloads FLS Clean in ultrasonic trim to length chamfer neck if necessary prime powder seat New Cases Follow Spuds video's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Andy, Just go easy on the lube, it can act hydraulically sizing each case different and pushing the shoulder back too far etc. Lube especially on a little case like .223 should not be excessive tending towards the very sparse is better than a little too much. The order I personally use and also the procedure depends on the gun / cartridge I am loading for. To explain I do what matters, when it matters! If it don't matter it don't get done! I have only ever cleaned cases with dry media and tend to leave primers in as it prevents having to pop bits of media out of flash holes. Careful examination of brass for splits, cracks signs of head separation starting, general faults and damage etc. should always be added to that list- don't miss it out or it will one day catch you out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 You need to do the chamfering of the mouth of the neck AFTER resizing and checking to see if that operation has lengthened the case to the point where it needs trimming back which will leave a sharp burred edge.... if the case was chamfered before 1st firing and does not need trimming then you will not need to re-chamfer....... apart from that basically fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
527vamint Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 You need to do the chamfering of the mouth of the neck AFTER resizing and checking to see if that operation has lengthened the case to the point where it needs trimming back which will leave a sharp burred edge.... if the case was chamfered before 1st firing and does not need trimming then you will not need to re-chamfer....... apart from that basically fine. Thanks for that,but as of yet I have had no need to trim the length as im just under the max length. When I get competent at reloading I will trim all my good cases to a set length. Just getting the feel of things for now and using once fired ppu cases. Then will move onto my hornandy case's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 Thanks for that,but as of yet I have had no need to trim the length as im just under the max length. When I get competent at reloading I will trim all my good cases to a set length. Just getting the feel of things for now and using once fired ppu cases. Then will move onto my hornandy case's. Enjoy! If in any doubt always ask ...just as you have done..... there is a lot of good advice to be had here....just remember that there is usually more than one way to do things so some advice may appear conflicting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 I have just been rereading this post and noticed you said you're using once fired factory brass of various types. are you keeping them separate working loads up in each brand. just in case you didn't know a safe load in one case may be unsafe in another case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 I have just been rereading this post and noticed you said you're using once fired factory brass of various types. are you keeping them separate working loads up in each brand. just in case you didn't know a safe load in one brands case may be unsafe in another brands case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
527vamint Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Yes Thanks ,I am keeping everything separate ,ie brands and amount of times they have been fired,had some cases which I am not sure of fireings,have just thrown them. All cases to present are cleaned and batched ready for realoading .Only using different cases to find out which suits best,and i started with the cheapest first,as not to waist my good brass. Thanks Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcampbellsmith Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 ..Only using different cases to find out which suits best,and i started with the cheapest first,as not to waist my good brass....... Andy. I've wasted a lot of time using inferior brass. It's a false economy in my opinion. Use the best brass you can lay your hands on for each calibre that you are using. Regards JCS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gandy Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Andy. I've wasted a lot of time using inferior brass. It's a false economy in my opinion. Use the best brass you can lay your hands on for each calibre that you are using. Regards JCS That's good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Andy. I've wasted a lot of time using inferior brass. It's a false economy in my opinion. Use the best brass you can lay your hands on for each calibre that you are using. Regards JCS +1 again! I to have found some brass worthless iv always found Norma as good as any if you can get your hands on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Offroad Gary Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Tumble first, to protect dies, then inspect Size/deprime, inspect again Ultrasound clean then dry Trim/chamfer/deburr Prime Load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 There is an argument for using cheaper brass to learn trimming chamfering neck turning etc. but better brass is cheaper in the long run it lasts longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
527vamint Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Only using the cheaper brass(ppu) to get the feel of things,no point me wasting my good brass before I get things nearly right. Have a good amount of hornandy,winchester and lapua to go at when everything is in order. Found out the hard way using cheap ppu to start with,could group but not what I wanted,changed to hornady 55g vmax and now have a good hunting bullet that does touching groups and a supply of brass from them,for my target work. Is a tumbler somthing that I may need in the future,the ultrasonic does a very good job at inner and outer cleaning. Thanks again for your info much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 If your cases are clean they are clean. I have never wet cleaned I think its often a swings and roundabouts situation, both have their plus and minus points Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 I have a little aldi ultrasonic cleaner and homemade tumbler ultrasonic pro's clean inside and out. con's three step process then need to dry them. walnut tumbler pro's dump em in and forget for a couple of hours ready to use sooner con's poking bit out of flash holes, dust so I tumble for 3 or 4 loads then ultrasonic before I anneal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
527vamint Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 I have a little aldi ultrasonic cleaner and homemade tumbler ultrasonic pro's clean inside and out. con's three step process then need to dry them. walnut tumbler pro's dump em in and forget for a couple of hours ready to use sooner con's poking bit out of flash holes, dust so I tumble for 3 or 4 loads then ultrasonic before I anneal. Ok thanks again,will stick with the ultrasonic for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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