Jump to content

Recommended Posts

never :P which one Iam looking for recomendations

You never said that :P , not sure of the make but mine sits directly over the tube, not ideal but once set up for the shot it serves its purpose. I'm about to buy a 21stcentury tactical one which is offset and allows you to stay in the aim and check at a glance. I'm sure Richness did a review of three different types which was very good, can't recall where I read it though

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You never said that :P , not sure of the make but mine sits directly over the tube, not ideal but once set up for the shot it serves its purpose. I'm about to buy a 21stcentury tactical one which is offset and allows you to stay in the aim and check at a glance. I'm sure Richness did a review of three different types which was very good, can't recall where I read it though

just been looking at the Holland signiture series,they look nice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

As a matter of interest, has anyone had any experience of the Alamo Four Star DEROS range of electronic levels? They come in a range of sensitivities at a US retail price of $129. Any electronic wizards on here fancy having a go at making something similar?

 

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the deben weaver/pic rail bubble there only £14 and you can see them with out disturbing your position ;)

 

Yup. No point in spending more.

These do what they say on the tin, and you can position them so that you can see them without breaking your cheekweld.

 

Weaver and 11mm models.

 

kahles_zps1c684cb4.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally would only use a scope mounted level - Holland - as I naturally cant the rifle when shooting (only marginally) which renders a rail mounted level useless.

 

After using a weaver type for years, just found them a poor second place compared to the Holland.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

all you do is mount the weaver bubble, aim the rifle with the plumb bob and get the wife to stick 2 small pieces of tape to frame the bubble!

Job done with the cheap model.

 

I would cut thin peices of tape though so i didnt obscure the rest of the level bubble so you can see which side its one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally would only use a scope mounted level - Holland - as I naturally cant the rifle when shooting (only marginally) which renders a rail mounted level useless.

After using a weaver type for years, just found them a poor second place compared to the Holland.

 

Wow, so do you also tip the scope out of vertical to match your hold (ie scope and bubble are true to each other but canted with respect to the rifle)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the bubble and scope are true to each other and perpendicular, just the rifle/base is not perpendicular (as stated, very slightly canted).

 

For long range shots on our terrain I do find checking the level adds to my success).

 

Just found the the cheap weaver types inferior.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interestingly the amount I cant my rifle is the same as Richness found in the link at the start of this thread.

 

 

Who is Richness?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Who is Richness?

As stated a link to a clip was at start of this thread, believe "Richness" submitted it, think he was a member here once, but not now?

 

In my book it's the reticle that needs to be perpendicular to the ground, for repeated long range dialling, not the rifle. Rendering the rail mounted levels only workable if action is bedded/held perpendicular in stock, and the scope/reticle is also in this plane.

 

Only the use of a plumb line, coinciding with the reticle being verticle, has been able to determine this in my experience, not a spirit level on rail or turret top - but am interested if this is wrong?

 

Regards Grouse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jungle Re, has the answer for recalibrating the weaver rail bubbles, for out of perpendicular actions/rails or canted rifles, can see that would work.

 

I also found these rail mounted levels got snagged on jacket when in the field, maybe not an issue if shooting positions are all on ranges and not used in the field?

 

But if it works for you fine, the original post was what do you use - I choose the scope mounted level for the reasons stated, and know many that also find the same.

 

Regards Grouse

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Grouse

 

 

hadn't heard of this person before.

 

 

I always set up my rifles on a rear bag / bipod so the rail is level (with the rifle) then mount the scope using a plumb line set a few feet away.

 

Cant will seriously affect bullet placement beyond a few hundred yards, the bubble level is a good idea - the cheaper ones just as effective as the over engineered ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fitted one to my AE yesterday, shimmed it on one side to level it, tilt is 0.5 degrees left cant and 0.2 degrees right cant at bubbles full extent of travel, Checked with my ultra accurate spirit level app on iphone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jungle Re, has the answer for recalibrating the weaver rail bubbles, for out of perpendicular actions/rails or canted rifles, can see that would work.

 

I also found these rail mounted levels got snagged on jacket when in the field, maybe not an issue if shooting positions are all on ranges and not used in the field?

 

But if it works for you fine, the original post was what do you use - I choose the scope mounted level for the reasons stated, and know many that also find the same.

 

Regards Grouse

Yup, that'll definitely work, all you're doing is creating a sight with a miniscule offset. As long as the sight and bubble are true to each other (ie the sight elevates in the vertical plain) the offset will matter nought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Personally would only use a scope mounted level - Holland - as I naturally cant the rifle when shooting (only marginally) which renders a rail mounted level useless.

 

After using a weaver type for years, just found them a poor second place compared to the Holland.

second that , i have a deben that was to mount on a rimfire with grooves in the action for scope bases ! when mounted it was out of level , i know because id leveled the rifle off the bolt rails in the action ! i suppose i could of used tape or put new level lines using a black marker , then use paint to put on more permanent ones on . BUT after putting it in the bits box , after a few months it leaked the liqiud and was fu##ed ! ill never get one of those again ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always levelled the action then also leveled the scope just makes sense to me.

thats how i also do danny , you must level a rifle from the bolt rails ! Not the mounts or even the top of the picatinny or weaver bases because they might be out ! AS my remy 700 has a warne one piece rail if i put a level on top its out compared to the bolt rails ! once you get the rifle level and secure then mount a scope and use the plumb line or level-level . Easier would be to have one of these anti cants already on your scope tube , as you could level the scope and cant device in a bench or something to hold it secure , then put into mounts ! if it sounds hard work it is iv spent ages trying to level rifles and scopes its a pain in the arse..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy