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Popsbengo

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Posts posted by Popsbengo

  1. I'm thinking of installing a Vortex Venom red dot as a co-axial sight for my .338LM.  I have a Spuhr mount that can carry an adapter plate so the red dot can be nicely packaged with my S&B PM11.  It will be canted to the right so any elevation adjustment will be a combination of elevation and windage to get a vertical vector.

    The purpose of this is to acquire targets more easily when the scope is zoomed to max.   I'm thinking that this red dot needs to be 'zeroed' at say 1500yds as I want to glance through it and be reasonably close to what my scope elevation will be set at.  I'm not sighting to shoot, just to be in the ball-park for my scope.  At a mile I'd expect to have 18mil on my scope (zeroed at 200).  I'm not bothered about anything closer than 1000yds.

    Have I got my thinking straight regarding setting it up or am I missing something?

  2. 1 minute ago, One on top of two said:

    Not as much as you would think , if you just shooting fixed distances and as Long as you can see the shot marker  on your target , You really don’t have to spend a deal on your scope . Like Andrew and otherS said x10 will do the Job 👍 

     

    Couldn't agree more with 10x being ok. Not optimum for target shooting IMHO as I don't think the OP was suggesting a budget constraint hence a wider choice is open ?

  3. 41 minutes ago, saddler said:

    Apologies for the mixed units in the following

    You may need to redefine high magnification/long distance

    Most WW2 sniper scopes were between 2 1/4 power & 4 power. These for rifles used up to around 1000 yards
    Most modern small-arms scopes are similarly around 4 power or less

    A rule I was told some time back, which makes some sense, is that IF you want a more custom high power then choose a scope which matches the target distance - so a 10x for 1000 metre work, a 6x for 600m, etc.

    The naked eye can pick out 1" at 100 yards - so you want a scope that lets you do at least that at the longer distances
    You can obviously choose a higher power, but the trade off is more exaggeration to the hold and other effects such as mirage, etc.

    Interesting.  A military scope must cope with a trade-off between field of view and magnification.  WW2 scopes were limited by technology so it's not an overly fair comparison I think. Also, a soldier's target is a crouching man unlike a target shooter that needs to aim much more finely if he/she expects good scores.

    If by "exaggeration to the hold" you are referring to unsteadiness of aim being shown up with greater magnification, that's a good thing isn't it?  The wobbles there either way.

  4. I use a Nightforce comp which is 15~55 second focal plane on my 308 target rifle with a simple target reticle.  I like the ability to see the fall of shot (upto 600m) and I don't need to use the reticle for any measuring as the target rings suffice.  The added magnification is a "nice to have" as often I will only use about 25x.  A large magnification also has problems with heat haze.

    On my .338 I have  S&B PM11  5~25 with a first focal plane mil reticle.  I shoot at +1 mile so it's highly likely I'll miss the target so it's important to see the splash and to be able to calculate the error with the reticle and apply it to the turrets.  As field of view is related to magnification, too large a magnification means I may miss seeing the fall of shot so I can't correct.

    Too large a mag can be a pain to quickly regain a sight picture due to limited field of view and heat haze can wash out the sight picture entirely.   It's Swings and roundabouts dependant on what you're shooting

  5. We have a Winchester .22LR lever action for use by club probationers - we can't let them use it until they can count rounds because it knackers up the firing-pin every time.  We have got quite good at replacing it now 😁

  6. Never really understood the benefit of rifled 12g slug beyond a 'nice to have' as there's nothing you can't do better with an alternative.   A full power 45/70 405gn is around the same mass and same muzzle energy as a 12g slug but considerably more accurate especially at greater distance.  It's also much easier to justify a rifle over a slug gun.

  7. 24 minutes ago, Dellboy said:

    i run a untrasonic for cleaning stuff (not cases yet ) . I use parafin  . When it gets dirty i drain it into a clean container through a petrol fuel filter (attached buy pipe) . This filters own to about 10 micon . leave it to stand for a week then gently pour back in .. gues it wold work on this stuff as well .

    From my boating days I know some fuel filters won't pass water, the medium is treated specifically to stop water droplets so they drop out into a catch bowl.  Worth a try, I guess if it works, it works !

  8. 4 minutes ago, Woodlander said:

    Thanks for the tip, Pops.

     I picked up a litre bottle of this, cases came out like new, even the primer pockets were shiny.
    I was never happy with the results of the vinegar and washing liquid concoction and then the need to neutralise it.  
    Top tip......


     

    I drained the 15:1 mixed fluid after one use (100 .338 cases) and let it stand, all the crap fell out of suspension and I was able to reuse the stuff.  It was as good as 1st pass.

    P.S.  I have read that vinegar is a really bad idea.  Acetic acid will attack the brass unless properly and fully neutralised.  Citric acid passivates naturally and a quick rinse in clean water is all that's needed.

  9. 15 hours ago, Criffel Countrywear said:

    Hi

    I'm new to the forum. I have a bit of knowledge of firearms and I'm RSO, RCO trained as well as being Range Inspector trained. Look forward to keeping informed and being part of something that interest me.

    Who do I contact with regards to perhaps advertising my business on the forum?

    Thanks in advance.

    welcome to the forum 

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