Catch-22

Clear out of various items for sale. 1. EXD engineering reticle alignment tool. Perfect condition. £SOLD https://www.brownells.co.uk/VERTICAL-RETICLE-INSTRUMENT-EXD-ENGINEERING-289100000 2. Tier One scope levelling wedge. Anodised Red. Perfect condition. £SOLD https://tier-one.eu/collections/accessories-1/products/tier-one-precision-scope-leveller 3. Butler Creek scope caps. These were for a S&B PMII with 56mm objective. Not sure about diopter size. Never used. £SOLD 4. Redding #1400 XT Case Trimmer. Includes box, trimmer and a bunch of different pilots, brushes (for Redding case brush tool). Can’t remember pilot sizes exactly but have used for .223, 6.5, .30cal and .338cal…there are a few I’ve not used. Used condition. £SOLD 5. Redding Mod 22 stuck case removal set. Never used. £SOLD All include shipping to U.K. mainland only. Please PM if interested. Merry Christmas 🎅

Excellent and thorough qualitative research done on a bunch of LR primers, including Fiocci and Magtech; http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/?paged=11&cat=58 I use Magtec large pistol primers (.44mag) and they work well. I use Fiocci’s shotgun cartridges and think they’re excellent, far better than many of the alternatives, so I have no doubt their LR primers will be excellent too.

Well not really. It seems you’ve chosen a model S&B say was designed for Benchrest & FClass. For this model they’ve obviously favoured both high elevation AND very fine windage adjustments which supports these disciplines. The other PMIIs have more windage but in coarser adjustments because they suit military applications better and not so much benchrest / f class. My 5-25x56 PMII is as such, which is why I specifically chose a model with the HCMR2 reticle, which incorporates finer 0.2mil windage in the reticle, instead of the older PLF4 design with coarser 0.5mil wind in the reticle. Ultimately, it comes down to choosing the right scope with the features for the style/type of shooting you’re doing. But I do still think you should still have more than enough mechanical windage in your model for you to survive a mini hurricane. I often only require a max of 1.3Mil windage when shooting in a strong wind with a 6.5x47L in a strong wind. You should be fine. I recon there’s something not quite right with the rail (not aligned or concentric to bore) or possibly the rings (not concentric to the rail/bore) or even something mechanical in the scope or reticle shift…though I’d bet these last two points to be less likely. Personally I’d want to get rail & ring alignment and scope checked. 👍

Well not really. Sadly you’ve chosen a model S&B say was designed for Benchrest & FClass. For this model they’ve obviously favoured both high elevation AND very fine windage adjustments which supports these disciplines. The other PMIIs have more windage but in coarser adjustments because they suit military applications better and not so much benchrest / f class. My 5-25x56 PMII is as such, which is why I specifically chose a model with the HCMR2 reticle, which incorporates finer 0.2mil windage in the reticle, instead of the older PLF4 design with coarser 0.5mil wind in the reticle. Ultimately, it comes down to selecting the right equipment for the job. But I do still think you should still have more than enough mechanical windage in your model for you to survive a mini hurricane. I often only require a max of 1.3Mil at 1000m when shooting in a strong wind with a 6.5x47L. You should be fine. I recon there’s something not quite right with the rail (not aligned or concentric to bore) or possibly the rings (not concentric to the rail/bore) or even something mechanical in the scope or reticle shift…though I’d bet these last two points to be less likely. Personally I’d want to get rail & ring alignment and scope checked. 👍

Nowt wrong with the x47 and heavy bullets. Some of the smallest 600m and 1000m groups were done with the 140s. There are some who use 147s. But, you need a slooow burning powder AND long barrel length to reap the benefits. 24” imho is just too short for the heavies. I’ve had several x47s over the years, and still have a 26” Bartlein for my Defiance switch barrel and a 26” proof on another gun. I’ve found all barrels have worked well with 123g Scenars and N140 or RS52 and 139g Scenars with SO70 or RS62. It’s true the 6.5cm has a bit more capacity…but it operates at a lower pressure than the x47…so it sort of evens out I think. If you have a decent barrel length and use well stoked loads of appropriate slower burning powders with heavy bullets, the x47 will do anything you ask of it.

According to Schmidts website, it’s actually 16cm in 1/4cm clicks: https://www.schmidtundbender.de/en/products/police-military-forces/12-50x56-pm-iip.html Therefore it sounds to me there’s something not right. To have 16mil windage but be running out?!.

Likely the Finish Govt, and other NATO customers, have asked Lapua to supply brass for huge quantities of munitions to be supplied in anticipation of… Coincides with decreased availability of Vhit and Swiss Chemie (Relosd Swiss) powders…most of their production is going to Mil.

Hi Kev, Yes it’s still available. Please PM me for payment and shipping details. Thanks!

😂

Bump.

Still for sale!

NOW SOLD. Many thanks!

SOLD - pending payment and handover.

Bump, reduced further to now only £300!

Bump, now reduced to £90 - a complete bargain!

Still here.

That’s not true. The whole point of the ‘reflex’ moderator design is so that gas is leaked backwards over the barrel. It’s is one of the moderators expansion chambers and is designed to accept gas and allow it to swirl around before dissipating, thus reducing the rapport of the shot. End of muzzle moddys have all of the expansion chamber(s) ahead of the muzzle. I believe the OPs moddy is missing the end cap, which is meant to seal the over barrel expansion chamber and prevent gas leak backwards. Without this cap, this is why they’re getting back blast and bits of unburnt powder and residue all over their scope and in the eyes. And the corrosion of the barrel is a huge downside to reflex type moddys. But most people who remove the mod and clean the barrel after each outing, just aren’t aware of the damage that can be caused if leaving this type of moddy on the barrel without cleaning. It’s just not good practice to leave any moddy or brake on the barrel when in storage without a thorough cleaning & lube first.

Thanks. Yes I myself have a MAE bushless on my AI AWM. I wasn’t implying the rear bushing itself stops back pressure, but from moddy designs I’ve used in the past, the rear end cap bushing did incorporate a series of o rings within it - thus serving both as alignment AND effectively sealing the mod over the barrel to prevent back gassing. To me it looks like the OPs mod is missing this part.

From the photos, it suggests to me like there’s a rear bushing end cap or something which is missing from the moddy. You can see the threads at the back for it. A bushing end cap is there to ‘seal’ the moddy around your barrel. Without it, you can see a huge gap between the moddy and the barrel. I think that’s why you are getting gas blow back. But the point about the end of the barrel shoulder, where it mates to the moddy internals is well and truly corroded. This is why moddys need to be removed and the barrel cleaned after use and not stored with the moddy in place. It is unclear if the corrosion there is as a result of gas leak (due to poor mating surfaces, poor thread alignment or just due to leaving moddy attached and stored for long periods of time. Regardless, it doesn’t look great. Personally I’d chuck the moddy and get a new one at the same time as having the muzzle, crown and threads checked over. The barrel threads and shoulder could be the problem and not the mod, so best get them checked before investing in a new mod.

Do you also get excessive smoke & unburnt powder without the mod on? Are your cases coming out of the chamber with very sooty necks/shoulder/body? Of so, it could be that your load isn’t generating enough pressure (due to incorrect powder or a low charge weight). Alternatively, what’s the barrel to mod fit like? Do you use a brake or attachment between moddy and barrel. Is that on tight? Are you 100% the mod threads match the barrel/brake threads? If it’s an ‘over barrel’ design of moddy (most of the mod goes over the length of the barrel like a sleeve), what’s the bushing like at the end, which is meant to sort of ‘seal’ the rearward portion of the moddy around the barrel. If the bushing is poorly fitted, or too thin a barrel used in a wide opening, or no bushing exists then excess gas could leak between rear bushing and barrel - thus coming back at you. Are you regularly checking the moddy isn’t coming loose during firing? As the metal expands and contracts, things can loosen a bit and allows excess gas to escape. ^^ just a few possible causes of your symptoms. More info about your setup and experience with and without the mod may help. Regarding cleaning, you definitely need to clean off the carbon around your barrel/mod threads and mounting surfaces. Not only will carbon build up lead to corrosion, it’ll ‘bake’ the moddy onto the barrel and make it a bugger to remove. After cleaning the threads, add some anti seize paste (I actually use a high temp ceramic paste) to aid easy removal of the mod after a long shooting session.

Bump

👍

Depends on the item. Anything ITAR restricted and they won’t. Send them an email, they’re pretty good at responding.

I removed the tricker ‘straw’, cleaned the exterior, including delron plastic bit, with fairy liquid & a scrub. Did the same with the rubber O ring. Cleaned the copper bushings inside the trickler with a cotton bud and isopropyl alcohol. Then make sure the big ‘fly wheel’ on the trickler unit is still tight and aligned properly to the straw above it so that the rubber O ring is vertical, not slanted. I did this and my problems went away.

Hello. Yes still for sale. I’ve already sent you a PM. Cheers