shrek Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Was asked by a friend a while ago if i could build a mod... "barrel shroud" if an offical asks , but it wasnt a standard hole through the center jobby, its to be fitted onto a 22rim with open sights so most mods available would obsure the sight picture, So the cogs in the head started turnin and i got on with it, That was in May, to say work has been busy would be an understatment, and i got waylayed on the project!! But i finally got around to finishin it off and the old fella finally sorted me a bottle of argon for the tig wilder, So here you go, what do yo fellas think, not fully polished off yet and the head of the threads just being left rough until i can time it to the rifle in question! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajw Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Well done that man!!!! Looks good, I'm sure they will be pleased with that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elwood Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 I can't help wondering if this would also solve the problem of lamp glare when using a scope mounted lamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 i did wonder that ian especially if it was blued, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Looks pretty good Shrek very similar to the de-lisle (probably spelt that wrong) style of silencer used by the commandoes on their stens in ww11. I am led to understand that this style of mod is the most efficient at sound attenuation wonder if you cab comment on wether it is as good better or worse than a "factory" moddy like the shape of these but belive they are heavier ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrek Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 weight wise, just had it on the kitchen scales, weighs in at 188 grams, not bad for a full stainless construction!! not sure what weight factory ones are, but i was shooting it on my fathers 22 thismornin and it knocks the socks off the original little parker hale one hes got on, i could maybe even strech to say its probably as good as a top end mods such as the S.A.C etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auquhollie Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Certainly a nice wee looking mod. What price would that sell for ?. Ads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrek Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Didnt cost much in materials, an inch or so of solid from an old boat prop shaft which i found in the scrapyard, and a 6inch lenght of inch and a quater dairy tubing, 5 to 10 minutes worth of argon from the tig welder, Probably, this isnt including my time and electric for the lathes etc it wouldnt have cost anymore that 20 quid in materials from what i had laying around in the shop, anyhow as im not an RFD and it isnt proofed i can only give it away as a gift, to somone who has an allowance on their ticket for one, as selling it would be illegal (I think)!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest varmartin Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Looks good ...and i know they work well...read an article a while ago... One question though ???? What method do you use to ` time` the threads on the Mod and barrel so it lines up correctly ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alycidon Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 I can't help wondering if this would also solve the problem of lamp glare when using a scope mounted lamp. While I have not yet actually tried it I think a Butler Creek cap on the lens at the far end of the scope sorts the reflection issue. It certainly looks like it will. this was suggested to me on another thread here recently. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrek Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Looks good ...and i know they work well...read an article a while ago... One question though ???? What method do you use to ` time` the threads on the Mod and barrel so it lines up correctly ? For this i will need the rifle and the mod, the barrle will be marked on the top dead center of the diameter, same with the mod.screw on the mod till its tight, then back agian till the marks line up, measure the gap between the face of the mod and the face on the barrle, then face the mod off to that measurment, so when the mod is then scewed back on the two marks should meet and the mod will be tight agains the barrle! Anyone tell me if iv got this wrong, if im right its same concept really as getting the chamber bepth right when chambering a berrle, acording to J. Hinnant anyway!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vermincinerator Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 For this i will need the rifle and the mod, the barrle will be marked on the top dead center of the diameter, same with the mod.screw on the mod till its tight, then back agian till the marks line up, measure the gap between the face of the mod and the face on the barrle, then face the mod off to that measurment, so when the mod is then scewed back on the two marks should meet and the mod will be tight agains the barrle! Anyone tell me if iv got this wrong, if im right its same concept really as getting the chamber bepth right when chambering a berrle, acording to J. Hinnant anyway!! Yep, thats right William Nice job mate Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 There is also a formula to work out the measurment of cut, but cannot for the life of me recall what it is - I use your method when "timing" barrels / brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vermincinerator Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Andy i use the distance travelled by one turn of the barrel/action to determine the alignment of fluted barrels. An 18 TPI thread has a pitch of .055" so for one revolution it will travel that distance linearly, my barrel has 6 flutes and 6 lands so divide .055 by 12 and you have approx .0046" of linear movement to rotate the barrel from the centre of a land to the centre of a flute or half that from the edge of a land to the centre of the flute. So if your your datum mark lines up with the edge of a flute when the barrel us tightened you need to skim .0023" off the shoulder of th barrel. Ian. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotch_egg Posted July 11, 2009 Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 Didnt cost much in materials, an inch or so of solid from an old boat prop shaft which i found in the scrapyard, and a 6inch lenght of inch and a quater dairy tubing, 5 to 10 minutes worth of argon from the tig welder, Probably, this isnt including my time and electric for the lathes etc it wouldnt have cost anymore that 20 quid in materials from what i had laying around in the shop, anyhow as im not an RFD and it isnt proofed i can only give it away as a gift, to somone who has an allowance on their ticket for one, as selling it would be illegal (I think)!! Its an air weapon moderator isn't it.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratwhiskers Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Ah, he get he sorted then... good lad, looks nice mate Will it be comin' down country next month, so we can take a gander at it?? BTW the new .308 gets the bloody chop this week, down to 18" of kopalotofthatthen!!!! See you at Warcop next time, l hope. Ratty. .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrek Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 18inch, it certainly wont be a 1000 yard gun then??? Practical tho you just shooting the old barrel or is a new one gettin fitted? After making this mod im gonna take that one back off the ratwife and make a better one as that one is far too heavy for what its needed for! And i owe her for shootin her buck aswell, but it was eating a tree while i shot it! Should be down for stags shoot, hopefully warcop aswell, see what mischief i can get myself into! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 While I have not yet actually tried it I think a Butler Creek cap on the lens at the far end of the scope sorts the reflection issue. It certainly looks like it will. this was suggested to me on another thread here recently. A HOW DO YOU MEAN A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratwhiskers Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 18"s more than needed mate!!! l've managed with 3" all my life and it's been enough to entertain me Yes, that Mod is a bit heavy but she's not been out lately so no worries till you get here. Stag's do sgould be a lot of fun, but you keep well down range if you feel like teezin the missus... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest varmartin Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 What method do you use to ` time` the threads on the Mod and barrel so it lines up correctly ? For this i will need the rifle and the mod, the barrle will be marked on the top dead center of the diameter, same with the mod.screw on the mod till its tight, then back agian till the marks line up, measure the gap between the face of the mod and the face on the barrle, then face the mod off to that measurment, so when the mod is then scewed back on the two marks should meet and the mod will be tight agains the barrle! Anyone tell me if iv got this wrong, if im right its same concept really as getting the chamber bepth right when chambering a berrle, acording to J. Hinnant anyway!! Aha....I see .! Cheers for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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